Caliper change

[angus99]

Hoping to fit my brake upgrade tomorrow, 888/887 calipers etc. as well as removing the shocks for servicing.

Just wondered what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

[scotty_d]

Are you not as well to just drain it all out and replace with new stuff? And then get the full effect of your new brakes.

If the fluid is new and you don't want to do it, just do it quickly have the new caliper to hand as you change over and just top up lost fluid again.

[phillpot]

angus99 said:

what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

No, don't clamp them. If you have one piece flexi's (from chassis to caliper) you'll need to take them off anyway to unscrew them from caliper. You can hold the pipe and unscrew the caliper but its aukward and if it tightens in a different place you'll have a twist in the flexi.

I use a spare brake nut with a short piece of pipe squashed flat to seal it, or a bleed nipple can be used for a male blank.

Good idea to change fluid but I find it easier if you retain old fluid and let new stuff "follow through" rather than get a lot of air in the system.

Works the same with female nuts....

Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 28th December 08:09

[fenderbender]

angus99 said:

what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).

[phillpot]

fenderbender said:

angus99 said:

what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).

I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)

[haircutmike]

phillpot said:

fenderbender said:

angus99 said:

what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).

I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)

Works with rubber but you will damage the braided hose.

Do it quickly and bleed as normal!

[Simon says]

phillpot said:

fenderbender said:

angus99 said:

what the normal method is for preventing brake fluid leaking out when disconnecting the brake hoses. Can braided hoses be clamped or can some sort of blank connector or plug be used?

You can buy brake hose clamps from any tool store, or if you are careful AND brave you can use mole grips as long as you cushion the hose against damage from the serrated jaw teeth (use a piece of thickish rubber).

I really really wouldn't clamp braided hoses (even with proper brake hose clamps)

correct the inner liner may deform and never fully recover.

[angus99]

late start this morning, after too much red wine last night, but have the old brakes off and the new discs / calipers trial fitted. Haven't disconnected the brake hoses from the old calipers yet though. Just off to get dome extra brake fluid and a bleeding kit.

bit of a bonus is that I didn't need to drill out the holes for the carrier bolts as they were alrerady the correct size. presume then that its just the earlier cars that have the smaller bolts?

[CHIMV8]

angus99 said:

late start this morning, after too much red wine last night, but have the old brakes off and the new discs / calipers trial fitted. Haven't disconnected the brake hoses from the old calipers yet though. Just off to get dome extra brake fluid and a bleeding kit.

bit of a bonus is that I didn't need to drill out the holes for the carrier bolts as they were alrerady the correct size. presume then that its just the earlier cars that have the smaller bolts?

Nick,what size discs are you putting on dia/width and are you using any spacers to centralise the new caliper?

[angus99]

Bought a complete kit from hansdal, advertised in the classifieds. Went this route as all the reconditioned calipers on Ebay didn't come with the carriers and I couldn't source the carriers separately. Also wasn't keen on grinding away some of the carrier to accommodate the 283mm discs, which I beleive still need a spacer

Kit included:
888/887 calipers
carriers
278mm discs
pads
spacers and bolts

[CHIMV8]

angus99 said:

Bought a complete kit from hansdal, advertised in the classifieds. Went this route as all the reconditioned calipers on Ebay didn't come with the carriers and I couldn't source the carriers separately. Also wasn't keen on grinding away some of the carrier to accommodate the 283mm discs, which I beleive still need a spacer

Kit included:
888/887 calipers
carriers
278mm discs
pads
spacers and bolts

Hows it gone?

Thinking of fitting these to mine?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-RS-500-87-88-Dril...

[carsy]

I have just managed to get some 887/888 calipers off ebay. Was just wondering what type of pads people were fitting to this conversion.

Those discs look nice. Is there any real advantage to having drilled or grooves for road use.

Edited by carsy on Sunday 5th February 16:39

[CHIMV8]

carsy said:

I have just managed to get some 887/888 calipers off ebay. Was just wondering what type of pads people were fitting to this conversion.

Those discs look nice. Is there any real advantage to having drilled or grooves for road use.

Edited by carsy on Sunday 5th February 16:39

Dont think so,but what the hell they look good!!

[Simon says]

Go grooved rather than drilled saves sifting through the brands that are prone to cracking through the drilled holes

[carsy]

OK and what pads do you recommend for road use.

[Simon says]

Never managed to overwhelm stock Motorcraft/Ford pads to date (on the road) with the Granny Cos set up. others will probably recommend EBC & Mintex etc

Edited by Simon says on Sunday 5th February 21:41

[haircutmike]

I ran a couple of sets of 330mm grooved, drilled and vented discs then changed to just vented Brembo discs.
TBH, even on T/D's I couldn't tell the difference!

[black and green]

I'm running standard TRW pads in mine with 887/888 calipers and normal ungrooved/undrilled discs and they feel powerful and progressive. Not convinced the grooved/drilled will be much more than cosmetic on a light weight car running relatively skinny road tyres.

[Naybr]

Back to the original point.

I haven't tried this personally for a while, but it used to be the case that if you put some thin plastic sheet under the cap of the master cylinder it stops the spillage at the other end because the air can't get in. You will still need to top up afterwards, but it's much easier to bleed a nearly full system than an empty one.

[Simon says]

Naybr said:

Back to the original point.

I haven't tried this personally for a while, but it used to be the case that if you put some thin plastic sheet under the cap of the master cylinder it stops the spillage at the other end because the air can't get in. You will still need to top up afterwards, but it's much easier to bleed a nearly full system than an empty one.

Yep, stll works, good advice concerning the bleeding no point in running the sysrem dry, the only way to get all the old fluid and silt from the system is to remove the resevoir anyways.