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jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Wednesday 4th January 2012 quote quote all
Hi Guys
Just got this car in,2005 audi a4 2.0tdi ,Customer was driving down motorway when red warning light oil pressure low came on,he stopped,checked it for oil and put in half a liter and drove it a further 20 miles with the oil light on as,also the brake pedal went solid so he lost the servo
first inspection-when started no big rattles or noise so changed oil and filter and fitted oil pressure gauge and started,no oil pressure,
Removed the sump and the chain tensioner,chain sprockets all look ok
anyone any ideas on what could be the problem,would the oil pump itself be gone weak???or something else???

Edited by jamesdb on Friday 6th January 15:01

helix402

443 posts

66 months

jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Wednesday 4th January 2012 quote quote all
Ok Thx!

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

88 months

[news] 
Wednesday 4th January 2012 quote quote all
Could be the hex drive in the balancer shaft assy. It can spin, so although the chain is on, the oil pump isnt driven. You need to take the hex shaft out of the pump (small circlip) and see if the edges are worn off.

Need new balancer shaft assy + modifed gears + modified sump required if this is the case etc.

Parts bill £1200+

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/oil-pump-fai...






jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Thursday 5th January 2012 quote quote all
Ok thx, will check it later, does the t-belt and pullies,etc have to be removed to take out this shaft?
Any special tools needed?or timing marks I should look out for
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jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Thursday 5th January 2012 quote quote all
Ok thx, will check it later, does the t-belt and pullies,etc have to be removed to take out this shaft?
Any special tools needed?or timing marks I should look out for

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

88 months

[news] 
Thursday 5th January 2012 quote quote all


The shaft is arrowed in this pic.

I cant remember if you can get it out without taking the belt off. I think the front crank seal housing piece (removed in the pic) might get in the way of sliding out the shaft, there is just a very small circlip holding it in.

If the front crank seal housing is covering the end of the shaft you will need to remove the belt and both parts of the bottom pulley, then yuo can take the crank seal housing off.

You need three special tools to time it up, two lolly poops that lock the cams and one crank holding tool.

This is for the single cam version, but its the same setup, just need two lolly pops one for each cam pully.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/2005-vw-pass...


http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/b5/2005-vw-pass...

jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
When I turned the crankshaft the little shaft in the oil pump was not turning, I assume this is my problem before I strip it all down and I can price all the parts up for the customer.....

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

88 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
Yep thats the problem

Modified Counter Balance shaft assy

Modified Crankshaft lower gear

Modified sump

Note, if your doing the work, its very very difficult to get the old crank gear off, and to get the new one on it needs to be heated to 240 degrees C.

google will bring up loads of guides.

Also see piston heads thread "TDI oil pump woes".


Tame Technician

2,292 posts

88 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
Found a guide for US passate engine, very similar.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3419/BHW_Balance_Shaf...

jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
took the shaft out and one end is nearly round,can this be replaced on its own or do i replace balance shaft and change from chain system to sprocket system


Edited by jamesdb on Friday 6th January 15:56

Tame Technician

2,292 posts

88 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
Yep thats whay they look like, I call it the biro shaft, cos it looks like a bic biro.

If you replace the biro shaft it will work for a bit, but how long I couldnt tell you. At some point it will spin again, because the edges will be worn off inside of the balancer shaft where it drives the biro shaft. (thats why I wouldnt be alloud to do that repair)

However if your customer is willing to try it, and you explain the potential issue (repeat failure) agaist the cost difference. I think that shaft is less than £5. Balancer shaft mod is well over a £1000 (parts alone) and alot more labour intensive.

If they are happy to try it, then go for it.


jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
ok thx for the help

helix402

443 posts

66 months

[news] 
Friday 6th January 2012 quote quote all
An expensive job, good to see great advice, that's what the forum's all about. Hope my parent's 2006 A3 140 TDI doesn't suffer the same failure.

jamesdb

Original Poster:

17 posts

31 months

[news] 
Friday 20th January 2012 quote quote all
An update guys
Fitted the new shaft, started ok and oil pressure straight away, turbo was noisey so got a second hand turbo and fitted it, car seems ok now but for how long I don't know.......

bbasi

3 posts

22 months

[news] 
Wednesday 17th October 2012 quote quote all
hi guys

i was wondering if you might be able to help me out.

Car is a 2005 A4 2.0 TDI which has done 110 k and has been maintained by audi since new (other than one service by a approved audi specialist). It was serviced aprox 2k ago by audi who noted that the alternator pulley was speaking (which has since stopped) and that there were faults logged with glowplugs 2, 3 and 4 (although i’ve never had any issues with car starting when cold). Neither repair was done.

I have had a rattle from the front end of my 2005 2.0 tdi for quite some time and its gradually got worse. originally my mechanic replaced one of the pulleys on the front of the car which did not fix it. we then established that it was the a/c pump which was rattling when the ac unit was not on. i did not fix this for aprox a year during which time the engine rattle got much worse. i have since had it replaced and noticed that the rattle has not stopped.

the other day whilst my wife was driving the car the low oil pressure light came on. she carried on driving the car (stupidly) and the light reset when the car was switched off. i started it up the other day and all seemed fine (other than the rattle) and I gave some gas and the oil pressure light came on again. switched it off immediately. started it up about 4 days later and no warning light. left it running for a few minutes but did not drive it or give it gas and still no oil pressure light.

The rattle is not like the broken chain rattle (vids on you tubes or forums etc) but makes the engine sounds more like a white van so its just a lot more noisy.
do i have the symptoms of the balance shaft issues and could the rattle be the issues with the chain?


bbasi

3 posts

22 months

[news] 
Thursday 18th October 2012 quote quote all
started car again today and gave it some gass. oil pressure warning light came on again at 2000 rpm.

beanmasteruk

1 posts

74 months

[news] 
Saturday 9th February 2013 quote quote all
James, did this solve the stiff brake pedal issue too? How was that connected to the oil pump issue? I have the exact same problem. Did you drop the sump and change it all yourself? does the timing belt have to come off too?

super tech

49 posts

26 months

[news] 
Saturday 9th February 2013 quote quote all
beanmasteruk said:
James, did this solve the stiff brake pedal issue too? How was that connected to the oil pump issue? I have the exact same problem. Did you drop the sump and change it all yourself? does the timing belt have to come off too?
The tandem pump will have failed due to no oil pressure, so no vacuum assistance.
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