Which short shift kit??
Discussion
just go with the 997 shifter. cost effective, quality and easy install. you dont need any other parts or have to faff about, and its completely reversible should you wish. the whole mechanism is improved over the 996 design too.
you have two options, the regular 997 shifter which is shorter than the 996, or the 997 short shift which is by definition shorter again.
the regular 997 shifter should be more than enough, but if you like very short shift actions go with the other.
you have two options, the regular 997 shifter which is shorter than the 996, or the 997 short shift which is by definition shorter again.
the regular 997 shifter should be more than enough, but if you like very short shift actions go with the other.
fioran0 said:
just go with the 997 shifter. cost effective, quality and easy install. you dont need any other parts or have to faff about, and its completely reversible should you wish. the whole mechanism is improved over the 996 design too.
you have two options, the regular 997 shifter which is shorter than the 996, or the 997 short shift which is by definition shorter again.
the regular 997 shifter should be more than enough, but if you like very short shift actions go with the other.
Thanks, I'll price both options up. I don't want to go too short or harsh with the GT3 kit in case I don't like it. Maybe the standard 997 kit will suffice. Opinions on both would be good/appreciated.you have two options, the regular 997 shifter which is shorter than the 996, or the 997 short shift which is by definition shorter again.
the regular 997 shifter should be more than enough, but if you like very short shift actions go with the other.
I recently put the base 997 shifter in my 986. An easy enough job if you [cheekily] follow the relevant sections of the guide produced by B&M Racing: http://store.cdoc.com/docs/67.pdf on your iPad [Save the trees!] 
I would say that the 997 base-spec unit is worthwhile but subtle upgrade. You should notice the difference but I found that I quickly 'forgot' how sloppy the old one was and now I'm just on to 'the new normal'.
I had tried the B&M shifter on a friends car (for a few minutes) and found it required too much effort and could lead to selecting the wrong ratio but he was very happy with it. Perhaps this means that we eventually get used to almost anything and it's only when we experience something different that we notice the differences and can compare...
However if you are looking for more of the rifle-bolt feel, then consider the B&M unit (although it is harder to fit). Alternatively, there is the more expensive OEM 997 short-shift version or the more expensive again OEM 997 GT3 version both of which are plug and play. Then there is the possibility of fitting Cup cables...
I would say that the 997 base-spec unit is worthwhile but subtle upgrade. You should notice the difference but I found that I quickly 'forgot' how sloppy the old one was and now I'm just on to 'the new normal'.
I had tried the B&M shifter on a friends car (for a few minutes) and found it required too much effort and could lead to selecting the wrong ratio but he was very happy with it. Perhaps this means that we eventually get used to almost anything and it's only when we experience something different that we notice the differences and can compare...
However if you are looking for more of the rifle-bolt feel, then consider the B&M unit (although it is harder to fit). Alternatively, there is the more expensive OEM 997 short-shift version or the more expensive again OEM 997 GT3 version both of which are plug and play. Then there is the possibility of fitting Cup cables...
just to underline my original post:
the 997 manual trans cars and 997.1GT3 use the exact same shifter. it is shorter than the 996 shifter in terms of throw by about 15% but is NOT a short shift option. PN is 997 424 010 00
the 997.2GT3 uses the same shifter action and geometry as the 997.1 but the bushings are replaced by aluminium (plastic in the earlier version). PN for this is 997 424 010 91
The short shift was an option on the 997 and wasnt available on the GT3. it is the same as the regular 997 version in terms of construction but has a throw thats shorter again. PN is 997 424 983 00
the 997 manual trans cars and 997.1GT3 use the exact same shifter. it is shorter than the 996 shifter in terms of throw by about 15% but is NOT a short shift option. PN is 997 424 010 00
the 997.2GT3 uses the same shifter action and geometry as the 997.1 but the bushings are replaced by aluminium (plastic in the earlier version). PN for this is 997 424 010 91
The short shift was an option on the 997 and wasnt available on the GT3. it is the same as the regular 997 version in terms of construction but has a throw thats shorter again. PN is 997 424 983 00
MogulBoy]I recently put the base 997 shifter in my 986. An easy enough job if you [cheekily said:
follow the relevant sections of the guide produced by B&M Racing: http://store.cdoc.com/docs/67.pdf on your iPad [Save the trees!]
I would say that the 997 base-spec unit is worthwhile but subtle upgrade. You should notice the difference but I found that I quickly 'forgot' how sloppy the old one was and now I'm just on to 'the new normal'.
I had tried the B&M shifter on a friends car (for a few minutes) and found it required too much effort and could lead to selecting the wrong ratio but he was very happy with it. Perhaps this means that we eventually get used to almost anything and it's only when we experience something different that we notice the differences and can compare...
However if you are looking for more of the rifle-bolt feel, then consider the B&M unit (although it is harder to fit). Alternatively, there is the more expensive OEM 997 short-shift version or the more expensive again OEM 997 GT3 version both of which are plug and play. Then there is the possibility of fitting Cup cables...
I have a 2nd hand 997 standard shifter to fit to my 996 turbo, not got round to it yet.I would say that the 997 base-spec unit is worthwhile but subtle upgrade. You should notice the difference but I found that I quickly 'forgot' how sloppy the old one was and now I'm just on to 'the new normal'.
I had tried the B&M shifter on a friends car (for a few minutes) and found it required too much effort and could lead to selecting the wrong ratio but he was very happy with it. Perhaps this means that we eventually get used to almost anything and it's only when we experience something different that we notice the differences and can compare...
However if you are looking for more of the rifle-bolt feel, then consider the B&M unit (although it is harder to fit). Alternatively, there is the more expensive OEM 997 short-shift version or the more expensive again OEM 997 GT3 version both of which are plug and play. Then there is the possibility of fitting Cup cables...
Do you need the plastic clip to centre the shifter? as I don't have one.
I had the plastic clip but don't believe that it is essential - just ensure that the old stick is left in the neutral position when you disconnect the cables and then take a photo to remind yourself where the cables were.
When you maneuver the new shifter assembly inplace, try not to disturb the cables and you should find that you can slot the cables into the new cups easily enough. When I did my first test-fit, I must have nudged one of the cables because the new shifter didn't seem to work. I immediately realised that something was wrong and moved one of the cables with my hand to get it back into the reference position as per my photograph and then on the second test-fit was all OK.
On some of the online guides, they suggest using a marker pen to mark where the cables sit and to very carefully ensure that the cables are seated in exactly the same position in new cups. In my experience, you don't need to be 100% accurate so don't stree too much.
If you imagine that the top of the gear selector stick marks a point on the surface of a sphere when 1st gear is engaged for example, depending on the fine adjustment of the cables within the cups, you might find that 1st gear is now in an imaterially different position but that's all.
When you maneuver the new shifter assembly inplace, try not to disturb the cables and you should find that you can slot the cables into the new cups easily enough. When I did my first test-fit, I must have nudged one of the cables because the new shifter didn't seem to work. I immediately realised that something was wrong and moved one of the cables with my hand to get it back into the reference position as per my photograph and then on the second test-fit was all OK.
On some of the online guides, they suggest using a marker pen to mark where the cables sit and to very carefully ensure that the cables are seated in exactly the same position in new cups. In my experience, you don't need to be 100% accurate so don't stree too much.
If you imagine that the top of the gear selector stick marks a point on the surface of a sphere when 1st gear is engaged for example, depending on the fine adjustment of the cables within the cups, you might find that 1st gear is now in an imaterially different position but that's all.
Mutt said:
Yes, sorry. Offers via e-mail if it fits your requirements.
Part no. is as follows and some pics:
997.424.983.00
^^^^This is the one I've had in the 996 turbo since '09, can be a bit notchy into 1st from cold but great when up and running, a big improvement over the standard sloppy pudding shifter imo. I also changed to Redline synthetic gear oil 75W-90NS at same time.Part no. is as follows and some pics:
997.424.983.00
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