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BenGTR
Original Poster
57 posts
25 months
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Hi there,
my attempts to press the column bearings into the two brackets failed so far. I used a G clamp and tried washing up liquid and machine oil - as the build manual suggests. After half of the job is done, the rubber buttons won't go into the hole! Removing the powder coating of the bracket didn't help too.
Any suggestions?
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spatz
1,635 posts
56 months
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I agree had really trouble to get mine in as well, definetely a change there !
Brutal force is all that will help take rubber hammer !
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BenGTR
Original Poster
57 posts
25 months
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My main problem is to get the two rubber buttons inside, they prefer to stay outside until they break off 
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GTRMikie
642 posts
118 months
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I can't remember what the bush looks like, but is it possible to use a jubilee clip to do the job, similar to how a piston ring compressor works?
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BenGTR
Original Poster
57 posts
25 months
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I'll give that a try 
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Storer
2,027 posts
85 months
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Once it's in it is very unlikely to move. Just remember to polish the column shaft where it sits in the bush and add some grease before assembly.
Paul
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mark999
21 posts
17 months
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hi just thought i would give my input did mine two month ago yes they where hard if you place a socket under your G-clamp it tends to press it in better you could try this.
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Kit2Kar
21 posts
26 months
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Try putting the bearing/bush in the freezer first then try pressing in. It may work !
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Storer
2,027 posts
85 months
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Kit2Kar said: Try putting the bearing/bush in the freezer first then try pressing in. It may work ! Beware of this. You may well make the nylon/plastic brittle and it will explode when you try to press it in. Paul
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738 driver
1,187 posts
63 months
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........ if you correct the bearing housing misalignment before installation of the bushes, no shaft polishing nonsense is needed..... and maybe your bushes will exhibit less wear/lift for longer too ..
G luck.
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02PRUV
211 posts
31 months
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Quick Grips work a treat. You need the the extra leverage over the g-clamps. 
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BenGTR
Original Poster
57 posts
25 months
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@738 driver:
How would you do that without welding the chassis?
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738 driver
1,187 posts
63 months
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...... by using a bar/tube as an alignment tool and slight twisting of the top mounting bracket with some decent grips.. Its only a slight misalignment and likely occured during chassis production but when corrected gives silky smooth column operation without the removal of material/polishing process some builders have carried out.
Im sure if you build without correcting alignment and polish a running clearance you will soon have worn column bushes and excess lift (MOT issue).. The correction takes less than 5 minutes.
G luck
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AlexCim
77 posts
24 months
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I struggled too. I covered the s  t out of mine in washing liquid and also chamfered the front edge a little too (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xQg1IsrJ818/TYxr_nAMBvI/AAAAAAAAC30/H3mZT-UCM4g/s1600/ch-1.gif) I didn't think doing this would be an issue as the back edge would also be full size and I really didn't see it moving around much when the washing liquid dried up and the rubber was touching powdercoating.
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BenGTR
Original Poster
57 posts
25 months
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Thanks for your help, I got them now in. Quite stressful - for me and the bearings.
Until now this was the most difficult part of the build!
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spatz
1,635 posts
56 months
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