Humpy D said:
Hi 69C, how's the painting going?
I'm interested in your progress as I'm in a similar siutation; all my woodwork is oil based gloss done a few years ago and yellowing so will be going down the water based gloss route.
I happen to like that 'wrapped in platic' look you get with oil based gloss; no water based gloss I have yet tried gives me that plus there are the dreaded brushmarks!!
Tell me, how did you prep the existing paintwork to provide a key for the water based paint? I have read various reviews that this is very important otherwise the water based paint will chip off. I was going to use wet and dry to take the shine off; is this enough?
Painted all the doors again, I've experimented on some of the doors, on some I've sanded with a scothbrite pad as the painted surfaces were already good, some i used 220grit paper for a key. I don't think it will chip off as the waterbase when dry is slightly softer than a fully hardened gloss. My base was on top of Leyland white Satinwood oil based.
I painted some with the Johnstones aqua waterbased undercoat which goes on fine similar to any undercoat, as my doors were already white abet gone off-white I did the majority just with the Johnstones aqua gloss.
When painting no matter what method you choose you have to paint at a very fast rate approx <10mins a door side)
This gloss paint looks & flows similar to normal gloss but you will not be able to paint a door from the top to bottom in one go then give a final lay off to finish. this will not work as the paint at the top will be starting to dry at the top or more likely half way down.
I tried doing a paneled door using a sponge roller I could do half the door using the roller then with a brush lay off the paint before it starts to go off, then roll the bottom half & lay off, this worked out ok'ish but when fully dry I could sort of see an orange peel effect under the brush strokes.
The best method I have personally found & used on the majority of doors is scotchbrite for a key, no undercoat as explained above, then before painting get a damp cloth and wipe the door over, then start painting from the top doing the door in quarter sections down, I use a 2" purdy synthetic brush damped prior to use.
started with applying paint to the insides of the two top inlay panels then fill in the panel & lay off the inner panels they are now finished, i then do the outer rails & infill between panels to approx a 1/4 of the way down from the top an also do the top style & lay off that first then do the rails & lay off I then work another 1/4 down to the cross panel & lay off, then do the bottom infils as above the another 1/4 bit down and carry on till finished, you will feel when painting when the other sections are drying as you brush will tend to drag do not go over it as it will ruck up & loose sheen.
The finish you see with your brush will be the finish you will get once dry approx 4 hours the brush marks don't flow in together as with oil based paints. Some doors I gave a light sand & gave a second coat most I did not as the coverage is good with a high solids content to the paint.
What are my thoughts on it, well its not a super-smooth finish with no brush marks but to be honest it is the best waterbased paint I've used. better than leyland waterbased which i also used.
Would I use it again, its a big yes, its not perfect but it is very shiny & smoothish bright white.
A really good synthetic brush is a must. I used a Purdy 2" & also a Harris 2" no loss brushes the Purdy been an ultra fine filament brush I have wondered if a larger brush may have been even better say 2.5" as you could paint even quicker.
One thing i did do was to wash the brushes after each door or after painting each door frame because even though its waterbased it is a gloss & if left to long it can actually dry on the brush especially nearer to the ferrule. All I hope now is it stays white which it has done so far. All in all its the best waterbased I've used so far. I ordered from http://www.tools-paint.com
which was free delivery.
Ultimately I think oil based white glosses are finished due to VOC 2010. I would recommend buying some & trying it to see if it suits your needs. All I need now is a few more months under it belt to prove the will it stay the white test.