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UltimaDean
Original Poster
2 posts
7 months
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Hi. I've ordered my chassis, double skin kit, what should I get next?
I am thinking AP brakes, LS7 engine, leather interior, ultima clocks for some specs.
I haven't thought about the gearbox.
Where am I best going for the engine, ultima suggest American Speed, any suggestions? Gearbox? Help please.
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ezakimak
1,365 posts
105 months
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you need the suspension on, rad pipes, aircon pipes, brake pipes, wiring in, gear change mech in before you can fit the body.
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Steve_D
8,642 posts
127 months
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If you don't have it yet ask the Factory to send you the build manual.
Read it several times before you start. The sequence of build is in there.
However some things are not as clear as you would wish so don't be scared to ask here.
First one is free. Don't rivet the top edge of the front and rear bulkhead skins. Later in the build the body overlaps these panels and you rivet through the whole lot.
Steve
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spatz
1,625 posts
55 months
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second for free,
do not install wishbones and hubs until you are almost finished, they will be always in the way workin on the car !
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YIIHAA
329 posts
121 months
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Steve_D said: First one is free. Don't rivet the top edge of the front and rear bulkhead skins. Later in the build the body overlaps these panels and you rivet through the whole lot.
Steve They've still not put that in the manual? I built mine in 2000/2001 and wrote an article for the Ultima Club magazine on where not to rivet. The manual was a pretty rudimentary affair back then, fitting the engine ran to two paragraphs. Needless to say the factory were programmed in to my speed dial during the build, and were always very helpful. Shame that some of the pearls they fed me weren't included in the manual. Builders these days are very lucky with all the additional online resources and professor Steve on tap here.
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JBC
17 posts
7 months
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Great advice, I'm at the same stage and was just about to start riveting. Thanks guys !
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Steve_D
8,642 posts
127 months
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JBC said: Great advice, I'm at the same stage and was just about to start riveting. Thanks guys ! So to expand on this point. Drill all the other holes, deburr, spray of waxoil down the holes in the chassis, thin line of PU sealant (including along the rail you have not drilled) then pop the panel into place and rivet. Use a piece of wood and clamps to hold the un-riveted edge in place until the sealant has cured. Steve
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Storer
1,983 posts
84 months
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Ultimadean and JBC
Welcome.
Don't be afraid to ask what may seem a dumb question. We have all had them. The search function on here is carp and even using Google it may take time to find what you need.
It often helps to look at a complete car and most on here would be happy to let you look over their cars.
It is useful to include your location in your profile to all posters. It saves asking for local owners..
Paul
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UltimaDean
Original Poster
2 posts
7 months
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Thanks Guys. I've had a quick look over the build manual, and yes it is a little bit shallow. I think some of these other Ultima build sites are much clearer. I'll let you know how things are getting on. And believe me I think there'll be many questions I'll be asking. As for the hints please keep them coming I'm writing it all down.
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Pedders
84 posts
153 months
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Me too - many thanks. Could I just clarify a bit more? I have the double skin kit. Is it both sides (cockpit and engine bay) of the rear bulk head that I shouldn't rivet the top edge? Also, am I right in thinking I shouldn't do any drilling of the same top edges, since when the centre section of the body work goes on, I'll drill through that, the top of the panel and also the chassis in one go so it all lines up? If that's the case, it's unfortunately too late for the cocpit side of the bulkhead panel, but at least I haven't drilled the chassis yet. Many thanks again. Steve_D said: JBC said: Great advice, I'm at the same stage and was just about to start riveting. Thanks guys ! So to expand on this point. Drill all the other holes, deburr, spray of waxoil down the holes in the chassis, thin line of PU sealant (including along the rail you have not drilled) then pop the panel into place and rivet. Use a piece of wood and clamps to hold the un-riveted edge in place until the sealant has cured. Steve
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Steve_D
8,642 posts
127 months
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Just top edge of rear bulkhead on engine bay side as this is where the GF body attaches.
Steve
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Pedders
84 posts
153 months
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Steve_D said: Just top edge of rear bulkhead on engine bay side as this is where the GF body attaches.
Steve Thanks Steve
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Stig
9,955 posts
153 months
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UltimaDean said: Thanks Guys. I've had a quick look over the build manual, and yes it is a little bit shallow. I think some of these other Ultima build sites are much clearer. I'll let you know how things are getting on. And believe me I think there'll be many questions I'll be asking. As for the hints please keep them coming I'm writing it all down. Definitely read the build sites our there - far more detailed and 'step by step' than the build manual (but the build manual/CD of photos is also useful). I could recommend a couple....  
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JBC
17 posts
7 months
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It's all making sense so far, thanks for the advice. I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling ) Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend 
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macgtech
600 posts
28 months
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JBC said: It's all making sense so far, thanks for the advice. I've also been looking at MacG's build diary, which is really helpful ( being a newbie I don't know if I can post the link, but it won't take much googling ) Just sorted the garage, should get the riveter fired up this or next weekend Might even finish off the final page of this soon now that the season is finished, but we are concentrating more on the online shop which will hopefully be sorted soon!
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Stig
9,955 posts
153 months
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JBC
17 posts
7 months
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macgtech said: Might even finish off the final page of this soon now that the season is finished, but we are concentrating more on the online shop which will hopefully be sorted soon! Was wondering what your gearbox options were !
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macgtech
600 posts
28 months
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JBC said: Was wondering what your gearbox options were ! Well...where do we start.... We started off with an Autobionics G96-50 with an uprated diff plate, external cooler and pump arrangement. This proved not to be up to the fiercesome loads we were putting on it (although more than enough for road/trackday use) so we have had that rebuilt and is now sat waiting for us to sell it. We then moved to an Albins ST6-M, which is a full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car! They also do a AGB10 transaxle which is similar to the Porsche units but more robust, and are available in 5 or 6 speeds and in synchro or sequential. If you want any more info just give us a shout - we are more than happy to help. Jonny
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JohnMcL
16 posts
12 months
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full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car
Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job.
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macgtech
600 posts
28 months
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JohnMcL said: full race sequential box, with flatshift, dropgears, internal pump and filter, LSD etc...maybe overkill for a road car
Maybe? You jest.
The cost of modifying a Porsche transaxle with Albins or CMS bits is frightening. The modern answer is a Griffin box. Lots of ratios to match up to an LSx, no adapter plate, just made for the job. Jesting I was. Although we have had several interested parties approach us about the ST6-M, and some of these are road going - so I thought it may be worth mentioning here.
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