Front bearing torque settings

Front bearing torque settings

Author
Discussion

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

224 months

Wednesday 17th October 2012
quotequote all
Is there a torque setting or is it just a case of loose enough so no resistance and tight enough so no play?

Dix

Jack Valiant

1,894 posts

236 months

Wednesday 17th October 2012
quotequote all
Yep just tighten till a little resistance then back off slightly and fit split pin. plenty of grease and chech regularly for play. I fitted new bearings recently and when i cleaned the old ones there was some signed of play in the race and slight blueing so simple job but worth checking every know and then.

Chris

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

261 months

Friday 19th October 2012
quotequote all
As it is ford cortina, there is a procedure with torque setting available.
Do it myself by hand and feel, based on replacing quite a few wheel bearings over the years.
BUT: if too tight and the front wheel hubs warm/heat up due to braking, it could go solid!
So I always have a little play when cold and as said before, if too much play reduce it a bit.

Rob

MrPicky

1,233 posts

267 months

Friday 19th October 2012
quotequote all
The important thing in setting the front wheel bearings is getting the end-float correct.

First, tighten up the nut (27 foot pounds) until the bearings are seated properly then slacken off until the end-float is right 1 thou to 3 thou according to the Wedge Bible (1 thou to 5 thou according to the Haynes Ford Granada book).hehe

The reason for the end float is that the outer hub is quite long and attached to the disk, heat put into the disk by braking will cause the outer hub to expand and take up the slack.

If the bearing is done up too tight then the bearings will lock up and spin in their housing, come to my house to see what happens to a stub-axle when this happens - I know by first-hand experience that adjusting until the resistance goes away is not great.

Russ

RCK974X

2,521 posts

149 months

Friday 19th October 2012
quotequote all
I do mine by hand and tighten until you can feel a slight resistance, and then undo about 1/8 - 1/4 turn so that you can *just* feel a bit of [sideways]movement/play. Can confirm by refitting road wheel to get a just detectable movement. Never had a problem with that approach.
Better a bit too slack than too tight IMHO....

dixiebabes

Original Poster:

3,111 posts

224 months

Friday 19th October 2012
quotequote all
Here's me thinking I was being a fussy bugger. Looser is better than tighter cheers lads.

Dix

hallsie

2,184 posts

220 months

Friday 19th October 2012
quotequote all
dixiebabes said:
Here's me thinking I was being a fussy bugger. Looser is better than tighter cheers lads.

Dix
hehehehehehehe

laugh

Stu


adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Sunday 5th January 2020
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There is a better method as found on the capri owner's website - to be updated.

KelvinatorNZ

634 posts

70 months

Tuesday 7th January 2020
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adam quantrill said:
There is a better method as found on the capri owner's website - to be updated.
Any updates on this? Ill be doing my front brake rotors soon, so a better method would be appreciated.

adam quantrill

11,538 posts

242 months

Wednesday 8th January 2020
quotequote all
Yes see here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Torque up then back off 60 degrees - 1 flat.

Then use the castellated nut trapping thingy.

KelvinatorNZ

634 posts

70 months

Wednesday 8th January 2020
quotequote all
Good stuff, thank you