Front bearing torque settings
Discussion
Yep just tighten till a little resistance then back off slightly and fit split pin. plenty of grease and chech regularly for play. I fitted new bearings recently and when i cleaned the old ones there was some signed of play in the race and slight blueing so simple job but worth checking every know and then.
Chris
Chris
As it is ford cortina, there is a procedure with torque setting available.
Do it myself by hand and feel, based on replacing quite a few wheel bearings over the years.
BUT: if too tight and the front wheel hubs warm/heat up due to braking, it could go solid!
So I always have a little play when cold and as said before, if too much play reduce it a bit.
Rob
Do it myself by hand and feel, based on replacing quite a few wheel bearings over the years.
BUT: if too tight and the front wheel hubs warm/heat up due to braking, it could go solid!
So I always have a little play when cold and as said before, if too much play reduce it a bit.
Rob
The important thing in setting the front wheel bearings is getting the end-float correct.
First, tighten up the nut (27 foot pounds) until the bearings are seated properly then slacken off until the end-float is right 1 thou to 3 thou according to the Wedge Bible (1 thou to 5 thou according to the Haynes Ford Granada book).hehe
The reason for the end float is that the outer hub is quite long and attached to the disk, heat put into the disk by braking will cause the outer hub to expand and take up the slack.
If the bearing is done up too tight then the bearings will lock up and spin in their housing, come to my house to see what happens to a stub-axle when this happens - I know by first-hand experience that adjusting until the resistance goes away is not great.
Russ
First, tighten up the nut (27 foot pounds) until the bearings are seated properly then slacken off until the end-float is right 1 thou to 3 thou according to the Wedge Bible (1 thou to 5 thou according to the Haynes Ford Granada book).hehe
The reason for the end float is that the outer hub is quite long and attached to the disk, heat put into the disk by braking will cause the outer hub to expand and take up the slack.
If the bearing is done up too tight then the bearings will lock up and spin in their housing, come to my house to see what happens to a stub-axle when this happens - I know by first-hand experience that adjusting until the resistance goes away is not great.
Russ
I do mine by hand and tighten until you can feel a slight resistance, and then undo about 1/8 - 1/4 turn so that you can *just* feel a bit of [sideways]movement/play. Can confirm by refitting road wheel to get a just detectable movement. Never had a problem with that approach.
Better a bit too slack than too tight IMHO....
Better a bit too slack than too tight IMHO....
Yes see here:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Torque up then back off 60 degrees - 1 flat.
Then use the castellated nut trapping thingy.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Torque up then back off 60 degrees - 1 flat.
Then use the castellated nut trapping thingy.
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