Faded bodywork what do you use?
Discussion
Morning all,
My bonnet has gone rather dull so I wondered if you S owners have used a particular product to bring back a decent shine!
There seems to be various products available for boats, rv's etc but thought is best "as always" to ask on here first.
Paul
My bonnet has gone rather dull so I wondered if you S owners have used a particular product to bring back a decent shine!
There seems to be various products available for boats, rv's etc but thought is best "as always" to ask on here first.
Paul
Edited by swimmer27 on Friday 15th February 14:12
Been in to detailing man and boy, lots of products out there now, claiming to be top dog. I'm currently using Zaino products with fantastic results. If you can afford it, give Zaino All-in-One a go. You can use it by hand too. http://www.zainoeurope.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&am...
We deal with a lot of valuable classic and vintage cars. Speaking from experiance I think you will find most of the problem is a build up of old polish etc., we deal with this buy removing it with a soft cloth and a drop of meths. Then using micro fibre cloths use a good canuba wax polish to start. We also find that Bullit polish is very good, expensive but it is nonabrasive, beware of any 'cutting' polish, if it leaves colour on the cloth it's removing it from your car! This is purely my experiance I'm not saying it is right but it works for us.
wizzer said:
We deal with a lot of valuable classic and vintage cars. Speaking from experiance I think you will find most of the problem is a build up of old polish etc., we deal with this buy removing it with a soft cloth and a drop of meths. Then using micro fibre cloths use a good canuba wax polish to start. We also find that Bullit polish is very good, expensive but it is nonabrasive, beware of any 'cutting' polish, if it leaves colour on the cloth it's removing it from your car! This is purely my experiance I'm not saying it is right but it works for us.
And works at Beaulie so probably is right 
I think most of our cars have clear coats, ie: lacquer over the base paint layer.(early cars could be single stage) You won't get colour on your cloths unless you have gone through the top layer! Avoid Mer, things have moved on, and it was a poor product to start with. G3 is more a body shop product and best used with a rotary polisher. Start with the least abrasive product first and work up from that. By hand, it's going to take time, but can fbe done. Better to invest in a random orbital polisher. Oh, and the first step before polish is claying the surface. It's all in the prep, there isn't really a quick, one step product, but Zaino is darn good. Pop over to detailing world for real in depth advice.
markbigears said:
Avoid Mer, things have moved on, and it was a poor product to start with.
really ?????ive not heard that before - in fact I was recommended it by someone who worked for Aston Martin and told they used it. (not disputing what your saying, but would like to know why your saying it)
I know its more of a a home product etc, but isnt that what the OP wants
i mean the use of G3 etc by an inexperienced user can surely end up with the removal of any clear coat etc ?
Edited by BountyHunter on Saturday 16th February 00:59
My paintwork is well past its best with lots of swirl marks. I find that bilt hamber auto balm does a really good job of bringing upma deep wet shine. It can vastly improve some paintwork, have a quick search on detailing world too see. If the pigment has faded below the lacquer, then i'm not sure what can really be done though.
I have to say, being from the "Old School" served my apprenticeship back in the 70's and 80's T-Cut a soft muslin cloth and loads of elbow grease. If you get tired then large flat areas can be done with a random orbital polisher with a sheepskin mop. Then Simoniz Original polish paste, it takes ages and you get a good work out, but when I restored my old MGB it came up a treat, matching the areas I had sprayed excellently. So when I finally get round to spraying the TVR I will hopefully manage a similar effect. 
Before and after half and half.
So long as there is plenty of "cellulose" paint on the bodywork, it makes no difference metal or fibreglass, so long as you dont go through!
Usually a clear lacquer finish is only applied to a metallic/metal flake finish, solid/plain colours are generally not lacquered.
The practice of using 2 Pack "rock hard" paints cured with heat or chemical reaction are almost impossible to restore, in my experience.
Before and after half and half.
So long as there is plenty of "cellulose" paint on the bodywork, it makes no difference metal or fibreglass, so long as you dont go through!
Usually a clear lacquer finish is only applied to a metallic/metal flake finish, solid/plain colours are generally not lacquered.
The practice of using 2 Pack "rock hard" paints cured with heat or chemical reaction are almost impossible to restore, in my experience.
Edited by S2Mike on Monday 18th February 10:23
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