Contemplating a D3 Audi A8 4.2/6.0 - what to watch out for?
Discussion
Evening all,
As I'm struggling to find a nice Phaeton with a proper engine (i.e. V8 or W12) to satisfy my luxury barge cravings, I've found myself perusing the multitude of D3 A8s on offer on eBay, Autotrader, PH, etc etc.
Ideal world scenario would be a 6.0 W12 with low miles and all the toys - particularly would like the four-zone climate control (to keep the OH happy when travelling in the back with our baby daughter). But given their rarity and tendency for sellers to ask silly money for W12s, I'd be happy enough with a 4.2 V8.
Budget is up to £9k for the right car (i.e. the fabled low mileage, 1-owner car that's had a recent cambelt service, nearly-new tyres and full dealer history). Oh, and unless the purchase price is a spectacular bargain, I'm after a car registered prior to March 2006 as that saves about £200 a year on road tax.
Are there any particular areas to check on these cars? Common faults, MoT failure spots, oft-neglected service items, that sort of thing. Anything that a seller might gloss over to shift a car that is soon likely to need expensive work! And do they cope with high mileages well, or are the apparently-cheap 100k+ cars best avoided?
(This may also help another PH'er who has been enquiring about a bargain barge on a similar budget too
)
Thanks,
Jonny
As I'm struggling to find a nice Phaeton with a proper engine (i.e. V8 or W12) to satisfy my luxury barge cravings, I've found myself perusing the multitude of D3 A8s on offer on eBay, Autotrader, PH, etc etc.
Ideal world scenario would be a 6.0 W12 with low miles and all the toys - particularly would like the four-zone climate control (to keep the OH happy when travelling in the back with our baby daughter). But given their rarity and tendency for sellers to ask silly money for W12s, I'd be happy enough with a 4.2 V8.
Budget is up to £9k for the right car (i.e. the fabled low mileage, 1-owner car that's had a recent cambelt service, nearly-new tyres and full dealer history). Oh, and unless the purchase price is a spectacular bargain, I'm after a car registered prior to March 2006 as that saves about £200 a year on road tax.
Are there any particular areas to check on these cars? Common faults, MoT failure spots, oft-neglected service items, that sort of thing. Anything that a seller might gloss over to shift a car that is soon likely to need expensive work! And do they cope with high mileages well, or are the apparently-cheap 100k+ cars best avoided?
(This may also help another PH'er who has been enquiring about a bargain barge on a similar budget too
)Thanks,
Jonny
Edited by Jonny_ on Tuesday 19th March 19:15
Lots of info here:
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/index.php
Including some W12 and plenty of S8 owners - also some with experience of D3 A8 4.2 including with LPG which might be of interest.
Basically anything advertised as 'fully loaded' won't be - there's no such thing as the options lists were ridiculous! Just decide what's important to you for your budget and be a bit flexible on exact spec. There really aren't 2 the same. There's a surprising number of poorly spec'd W12s and S8s about and some 3.0d with loads of kit
You can probably rule out adaptive cruise and B&O at that price unless it's mega miles.
Decide if you want short or long wheelbase as that will cut your choice of W12s in half and may rule out some 4.2s
There's a few common issues like the air compressor for the suspension and the odd MMI issue, but nothing fundamental that goes wrong that you can plan for
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/index.php
Including some W12 and plenty of S8 owners - also some with experience of D3 A8 4.2 including with LPG which might be of interest.
Basically anything advertised as 'fully loaded' won't be - there's no such thing as the options lists were ridiculous! Just decide what's important to you for your budget and be a bit flexible on exact spec. There really aren't 2 the same. There's a surprising number of poorly spec'd W12s and S8s about and some 3.0d with loads of kit
You can probably rule out adaptive cruise and B&O at that price unless it's mega miles.
Decide if you want short or long wheelbase as that will cut your choice of W12s in half and may rule out some 4.2s
There's a few common issues like the air compressor for the suspension and the odd MMI issue, but nothing fundamental that goes wrong that you can plan for
Thanks chaps - lots of useful info, much appreciated! That forum looks like a handy place to know as well
Half the trouble is avoiding cars that have been f
ked about with. Tinted lights, tinted windows, stupid massive wheels, phone cradles sticking out the dash like black plastic tumours... definitely to be avoided!
I've seen a rather nice greyish-blue 4.2 on offer, annoyingly it's in Wales... nothing around Yorkshire but diseasels or V6s!
Are there any particular big expenses to watch out for in the service schedule? Ideally I want a car that's had a cambelt (+ tensioner etc) recently, but have heard the auto box needs fresh fluid and filter around 80k - probably a job I'd do myself mind. Any other biggies? e.g. are the exhausts likely to rot out and need replacement, and any other oddball, hard to find and/or just plain expensive parts that are known to fail?
Cheers!
Jonny
Half the trouble is avoiding cars that have been f
ked about with. Tinted lights, tinted windows, stupid massive wheels, phone cradles sticking out the dash like black plastic tumours... definitely to be avoided!I've seen a rather nice greyish-blue 4.2 on offer, annoyingly it's in Wales... nothing around Yorkshire but diseasels or V6s!
Are there any particular big expenses to watch out for in the service schedule? Ideally I want a car that's had a cambelt (+ tensioner etc) recently, but have heard the auto box needs fresh fluid and filter around 80k - probably a job I'd do myself mind. Any other biggies? e.g. are the exhausts likely to rot out and need replacement, and any other oddball, hard to find and/or just plain expensive parts that are known to fail?
Cheers!
Jonny
Cambelt should've been done on all bar the newest D3s on age grounds by now, if not on mileage. If you see one that they can't verify a belt being done budget about a grand for a proper job with tensioners, ribbed belt, water pump and thermostat. Could be cheaper, so check with your local independants to see what they quote.
Just make sure everything works as intended - a battery warning could just be firmware on the MMI needing an update, or could be a battery about to fail. They do like a fresh battery, but so does everything else with this many electrical systems.
A well cared for car is definitely the way to go - decent tyres, unkerbed wheels, no major dinks visible etc, lots of service history. You'd be surprised how many of these are still within the dealer network for servicing.
Chav-tastic ex-footballer cars best avoided - there's some fairly horrid ones about with pimp tints and it's not just the cheaper models that have them.
The fuel of satan is worth a look - a 3.0 diesel will comfortably see off a 4.2 petrol after a remap.
Gearboxes (6 speed auto) are far more reliable than the D2 ones. An oil and filter change is a good plan whatever the mileage, although if it's done 150k on the original oil you may cause more harm than good by changing it!
Just make sure everything works as intended - a battery warning could just be firmware on the MMI needing an update, or could be a battery about to fail. They do like a fresh battery, but so does everything else with this many electrical systems.
A well cared for car is definitely the way to go - decent tyres, unkerbed wheels, no major dinks visible etc, lots of service history. You'd be surprised how many of these are still within the dealer network for servicing.
Chav-tastic ex-footballer cars best avoided - there's some fairly horrid ones about with pimp tints and it's not just the cheaper models that have them.
The fuel of satan is worth a look - a 3.0 diesel will comfortably see off a 4.2 petrol after a remap.
Gearboxes (6 speed auto) are far more reliable than the D2 ones. An oil and filter change is a good plan whatever the mileage, although if it's done 150k on the original oil you may cause more harm than good by changing it!
Adrian E said:
A well cared for car is definitely the way to go - decent tyres, unkerbed wheels, no major dinks visible etc, lots of service history. You'd be surprised how many of these are still within the dealer network for servicing.
My 4.2TDi has 208k on it and still main dealer serviced.Thanks for the input all
It looks like the hardest job might be just finding a good one! Spoilt for choice if you want a leggy 3.0 diesel, but only a handful of 4.2 petrols around and very few of those have sufficiently low mileage and/or complete service history - the only one that has really tempted me so far is over 4 hours away in south Wales...
It looks like the hardest job might be just finding a good one! Spoilt for choice if you want a leggy 3.0 diesel, but only a handful of 4.2 petrols around and very few of those have sufficiently low mileage and/or complete service history - the only one that has really tempted me so far is over 4 hours away in south Wales...
Facelifted 4.2 petrol's (fish mouth grille) have the FSI engine (watch for carbon build-up) which has a timing chain as opposed to a belt.
Things to look for:
Air suspension is behaving and changes levels without taking too long or the compressor being noisy.
Worn front upper suspension control arm bushings.
Front ARB and drop link bushings
Transmission oil pan leaks
Valve cover gasket leaks
Electronic parking brake works
Power boot-lid motor works (if fitted)
Soft close door motors work (if fitted)
MMI screen opens and closes smoothly
TPMS system works (sensor batteries in wheels only last 5 years before needing replacement)
Rear lamp LED's all working
MMI control buttons all work and aren't sticking (due to the location of the cup holders they often get drinks spilled over them)
There's a few more but they're not A8 specific and just stuff you'd look out for on any used car. Hope this little list helps.
ETA: If you get one, get hold of a VAGCOM cable and find a decent specialist. It will save you thousands over a main dealer.
Things to look for:
Air suspension is behaving and changes levels without taking too long or the compressor being noisy.
Worn front upper suspension control arm bushings.
Front ARB and drop link bushings
Transmission oil pan leaks
Valve cover gasket leaks
Electronic parking brake works
Power boot-lid motor works (if fitted)
Soft close door motors work (if fitted)
MMI screen opens and closes smoothly
TPMS system works (sensor batteries in wheels only last 5 years before needing replacement)
Rear lamp LED's all working
MMI control buttons all work and aren't sticking (due to the location of the cup holders they often get drinks spilled over them)
There's a few more but they're not A8 specific and just stuff you'd look out for on any used car. Hope this little list helps.
ETA: If you get one, get hold of a VAGCOM cable and find a decent specialist. It will save you thousands over a main dealer.
Edited by dvs_dave on Wednesday 27th March 03:46
How did you get on OP? Did you get a 4.2 or 6.0 in the end?
I have just bought a 20k mile 4.2 LWB. Averaged 29mpg on the 100 mile trip back. Unbelievably comfortable, quite and refined. It has double glazed windows so was almost near silent along well surfaced roads, certainly quiet enough to whisper to your passenger (Good when your little on is asleep!)
I have just bought a 20k mile 4.2 LWB. Averaged 29mpg on the 100 mile trip back. Unbelievably comfortable, quite and refined. It has double glazed windows so was almost near silent along well surfaced roads, certainly quiet enough to whisper to your passenger (Good when your little on is asleep!)
Bisonhead said:
How did you get on OP? Did you get a 4.2 or 6.0 in the end?
I have just bought a 20k mile 4.2 LWB. Averaged 29mpg on the 100 mile trip back. Unbelievably comfortable, quite and refined. It has double glazed windows so was almost near silent along well surfaced roads, certainly quiet enough to whisper to your passenger (Good when your little on is asleep!)
I haven't bought one yet, I'm trying to be sensible and hold off for another 15 months so that I can replace my company Passat with a small, cheap hatch before I buy another big saloon. Keep my eye on the usual used car sites, though, just to get a feel for pricing and availability. It's the W12 that I really fancy, trouble is they're quite rare and often overpriced because of this. Although the upside to the horrific thirst for fuel is they tend to have sensible mileage! ;-)I have just bought a 20k mile 4.2 LWB. Averaged 29mpg on the 100 mile trip back. Unbelievably comfortable, quite and refined. It has double glazed windows so was almost near silent along well surfaced roads, certainly quiet enough to whisper to your passenger (Good when your little on is asleep!)
Glad to hear you're happy with yours, the quietness appeals immensely!
Edited by Jonny_ on Friday 27th September 17:21
Rather than start a new thread and having the same people offer the same (good) advice I thought I`d resurrect this one. Just going to see another D3. I`ve tried a 3.0 TD which had been remapped to 270hp and now I`m going to test drive a 4.2 petrol ( and then make a decision). I`ve been reliably informed performance will be close although the feel will be different. I`ve had a few turbo diesel cars so I had a fair idea what to expect and it did have a nice shove in the back but I`ll need to try the V8 before I blow my dollars.
MPG isn`t an issue for me as I don`t do a huge mileage so it`ll boil down to what I like, price and condition.
I`ll post up my findings later.
MPG isn`t an issue for me as I don`t do a huge mileage so it`ll boil down to what I like, price and condition.
I`ll post up my findings later.
Ok, car drove seriously good. Only issue was a a loud buzzing noise from underneath periodically. Only when the accelerator was pushed down all the way. Buzzed for a few seconds them stopped. The suspension was very slow in moving but was level enough. Didn`t appear to want to drop to dynamic mode though.
Any idea? Asides from that the car was literally perfect.
Any idea? Asides from that the car was literally perfect.
Edited by bigkeeko on Wednesday 11th December 01:15
Edited by bigkeeko on Wednesday 11th December 01:22
Adrian E said:
suspension compressor potentially? Worth getting it checked out before buying unless you have a decent warranty as it can be a pricey fix if you go dealer for parts
I kinda thought that. I edited my above post as it was a bit of a mess. I also wasn`t sure on what to look for when I used the check button on the dash. I`ll probably check out another one. Thing is. I took cash and had there been no noises I would have definitely bought that car. The Petrol V8 sounded great on the move. It was as quick as the chipped 3.0td. If you were blindfolded you`d swear the diesel was quicker but according to the speedo I`m not so sure as 60 came up pretty swift in the V8. The 4.2 Td would be another story though.
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