starting issues is it my starter?
Discussion
Since i bought my Cerb i have increasing had starting issues (the solenoid clicks and nothing happens). Firstly when the car was hot, and now from cold too. I did get it to start when cold by putting in gear and rocking the car before trying to start again, and that seemed to work, but not now.
At thunder in the tunnels last weekend i had the same problem when it was hot, but this time even after 20 minutes it wouldn't start. Jamie with his ZX TT (big thanks to you jamie) gave me a jump start using jump leads and that worked. Again it happened when we stopped at battersea Park, and again Jamie gave me a jump start and it fired up, as it would not start alone.
I thought that perhaps the battery was dying, it has been on accumate charger when garaged, but going through the service records, receipts, it appears to be a least 3 years old, and is probably even older. I put the accumate charger on when we got home, and when the charger reported a fully charged battery i tried without success to start the car. Maybe battery has good voltage but low amps?
I have bought a new red top battery and tried to jump the car today, but it didn't work. Not sure i was getting a good earth off the engine, as when we jumped it on sunday we used a screwdriver to reach & connect to the negative terminal on the Cerb battery, rather than connecting the jump lead to the engine. Perhaps i need to do that to get a good earth? or do i need to order a new starter as well?
thanks for input
Steve
At thunder in the tunnels last weekend i had the same problem when it was hot, but this time even after 20 minutes it wouldn't start. Jamie with his ZX TT (big thanks to you jamie) gave me a jump start using jump leads and that worked. Again it happened when we stopped at battersea Park, and again Jamie gave me a jump start and it fired up, as it would not start alone.
I thought that perhaps the battery was dying, it has been on accumate charger when garaged, but going through the service records, receipts, it appears to be a least 3 years old, and is probably even older. I put the accumate charger on when we got home, and when the charger reported a fully charged battery i tried without success to start the car. Maybe battery has good voltage but low amps?
I have bought a new red top battery and tried to jump the car today, but it didn't work. Not sure i was getting a good earth off the engine, as when we jumped it on sunday we used a screwdriver to reach & connect to the negative terminal on the Cerb battery, rather than connecting the jump lead to the engine. Perhaps i need to do that to get a good earth? or do i need to order a new starter as well?
thanks for input
Steve
My advice would be to install your new battery. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight. Check the big earth from the battery -ve to the chassis, and from the chassis to the engine. That's the basics. If you still have problems, look at the starter. You can get them refurbed/buy fit your own or just take it to your local TVR specialist (Racing Green did mine) and ask them to change it. If the new battery doesn't hold up (problems start to recur), look at the charging circuit: 100 amp fuse and alternator.
Before you spend a lot on changing batteries, try jumping the starter solenoid signal wire ( the thin one that goes into an oversize grey connector housing) to the battery positive and see if that starts it easily. If it does then it is likely to be the immobiliser internal relay for the starter circuit that is degrading and causing the problem.
If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
Tanguero said:
Before you spend a lot on changing batteries, try jumping the starter solenoid signal wire ( the thin one that goes into an oversize grey connector housing) to the battery positive and see if that starts it easily. If it does then it is likely to be the immobiliser internal relay for the starter circuit that is degrading and causing the problem.
If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
Before you spend even more on a new starter motor...If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
The chances are it's simply voltage drop due to the immobiliser. If Peter's test proves positive then you have four options:
Rewire the immobiliser
Replace the battery
Replace the starter motor
or
Fit a helper relay - total cost about a fiver
Your choice, and the only one that is likely to fix the problem is the cheapest!
Paul - Pink Cerb at Battersea
Tanguero said:
Before you spend a lot on changing batteries, try jumping the starter solenoid signal wire ( the thin one that goes into an oversize grey connector housing) to the battery positive and see if that starts it easily. If it does then it is likely to be the immobiliser internal relay for the starter circuit that is degrading and causing the problem.
If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
i have just tried jumping the starter solenoid and the engine turned over straight away If the starter still just clicks when directly activated, then look towards starter or battery issues as suggested.
Its also worth checking the engine earth connections.
Tanguero said:
Unfortunately if the immobiliser relay is on the way out, it is likely to fail totaly in the end. If that happens then even a helper relay won't work, though it is a good temporary measure while you save up for a new alarm/immobiliser!
Not necessarily. I've used a helper relay for the last year in the Cerb, and in my other car I've had a helper relay for the air-con for the last six or seven years (much easier than replacing the under specced NLA relay in the air-con head unit).ukkid35 said:
Not necessarily. I've used a helper relay for the last year in the Cerb, and in my other car I've had a helper relay for the air-con for the last six or seven years (much easier than replacing the under specced NLA relay in the air-con head unit).
Hi Paul,Was good to meet you at TiTT, was great fun.
Will this relay be ok?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/40a-relay-for-automotive-a...
sorry but i dont know much about electrics.
I'd recommend a fused relay instead
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360609428391
Not a great photo but you can just about make out the relay and that I've taken the +ve feed from the big fuse.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360609428391
Not a great photo but you can just about make out the relay and that I've taken the +ve feed from the big fuse.
ukkid35 said:
Tanguero said:
Unfortunately if the immobiliser relay is on the way out, it is likely to fail totaly in the end. If that happens then even a helper relay won't work, though it is a good temporary measure while you save up for a new alarm/immobiliser!
Not necessarily. I've used a helper relay for the last year in the Cerb, and in my other car I've had a helper relay for the air-con for the last six or seven years (much easier than replacing the under specced NLA relay in the air-con head unit).sjc1969 said:
relay ordered. If i want to get the immobilisor replaced, where should i go? Fernhurst? they are local. I hear carl baker is now in France and would have been the obvious choice.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...All the alarm/immobiliser parts are available from http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/
It is a relatively straightforward job to fit yourself, though be aware that the alarm pairs with the immobiliser unit so both units may need to be replaced together. Abacus were very helpful with advice when I did mine.
It is a relatively straightforward job to fit yourself, though be aware that the alarm pairs with the immobiliser unit so both units may need to be replaced together. Abacus were very helpful with advice when I did mine.
Tanguero said:
All the alarm/immobiliser parts are available from http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/
It is a relatively straightforward job to fit yourself, though be aware that the alarm pairs with the immobiliser unit so both units may need to be replaced together. Abacus were very helpful with advice when I did mine.
Yep.. Very helpful for me as well when ringing for advice/info.It is a relatively straightforward job to fit yourself, though be aware that the alarm pairs with the immobiliser unit so both units may need to be replaced together. Abacus were very helpful with advice when I did mine.
ok, so i got a relay and wired it up. I got about 3 turns of the engine and then nothing again, just the click of the solenoid. So i then jumped the solenoid wire again, and this time i only get a click from the solenoid. Has my starter motor just packed in? I have already replaced the battery this morning with an optima red top.
Sounds like it isn't the immobiliser then.
If you are only getting a solenoid click with a good fresh battery and directly activating the signal wire then my next first step would be to double check the earth connections to the engine (lower passenger side of the block) and to the chassis (back of the passenger wheel arch). If that makes no difference then the next step would be to pull the starter.
If you are only getting a solenoid click with a good fresh battery and directly activating the signal wire then my next first step would be to double check the earth connections to the engine (lower passenger side of the block) and to the chassis (back of the passenger wheel arch). If that makes no difference then the next step would be to pull the starter.
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