Toilet handle won't/weak flush
Discussion
Hi all,
Hopefully this is an easy one, I'm not very well up on toilets so have been trying google to diagnose my problem.
Symptom
The toilet handle pulls down very easily but doesn't flush, to flush it I need to pump the handle a few times. I've included a picture of the setup below:
I've checked the following:
- the chain/metal pin is connected and this can be seen attached to the handle
- flapper valve, unfortunately I can't see this as I *think* it looks sealed (I could be wrong)
One site states that the float shouldn't be touching the side and to "bend it back gently" if it is as this will stop the toilet from filling correctly. Could this be the problem? The float is touching the back of the toilet and looking down the toilet there is what appears to be an old water mark. Now, I'm not going to bend this back as it's made of plastic but I have noticed a small plastic pin on the right which might tighten against the side wall of the toilet to keep the float more central. What are peoples thoughts on this? Would something as simple as the float being in the wrong place cause such a problem?
A picture of the handle pulled down with no flush:
Thanks
Hopefully this is an easy one, I'm not very well up on toilets so have been trying google to diagnose my problem.
Symptom
The toilet handle pulls down very easily but doesn't flush, to flush it I need to pump the handle a few times. I've included a picture of the setup below:
I've checked the following:
- the chain/metal pin is connected and this can be seen attached to the handle
- flapper valve, unfortunately I can't see this as I *think* it looks sealed (I could be wrong)
One site states that the float shouldn't be touching the side and to "bend it back gently" if it is as this will stop the toilet from filling correctly. Could this be the problem? The float is touching the back of the toilet and looking down the toilet there is what appears to be an old water mark. Now, I'm not going to bend this back as it's made of plastic but I have noticed a small plastic pin on the right which might tighten against the side wall of the toilet to keep the float more central. What are peoples thoughts on this? Would something as simple as the float being in the wrong place cause such a problem?
A picture of the handle pulled down with no flush:
Thanks
Yes, I've had to repair one of these.
Assuming the cistern is full of water?
The symptoms from outside feel the same as if it's empty. If it's full and not overflowing then it's nothing to do with bending the float.
Previous poster is correct, the syphon has a split valve - usually just a piece of plastic but as stated you can't get to it from the top.
One day someone will invent an unscrewable syphon top - that's all it needs to fix it from the top!
I got a new syphon.
But
You have to take the tank off the wall with these systems that sit on the back of the pan.
Close the water off first.
Assuming the cistern is full of water?
The symptoms from outside feel the same as if it's empty. If it's full and not overflowing then it's nothing to do with bending the float.
Previous poster is correct, the syphon has a split valve - usually just a piece of plastic but as stated you can't get to it from the top.
One day someone will invent an unscrewable syphon top - that's all it needs to fix it from the top!
I got a new syphon.
But
You have to take the tank off the wall with these systems that sit on the back of the pan.
Close the water off first.
M4cruiser said:
Yes, I've had to repair one of these.
Assuming the cistern is full of water?
The symptoms from outside feel the same as if it's empty. If it's full and not overflowing then it's nothing to do with bending the float.
Previous poster is correct, the syphon has a split valve - usually just a piece of plastic but as stated you can't get to it from the top.
One day someone will invent an unscrewable syphon top - that's all it needs to fix it from the top!
I got a new syphon.
But
You have to take the tank off the wall with these systems that sit on the back of the pan.
Close the water off first.
Plumber it is then Assuming the cistern is full of water?
The symptoms from outside feel the same as if it's empty. If it's full and not overflowing then it's nothing to do with bending the float.
Previous poster is correct, the syphon has a split valve - usually just a piece of plastic but as stated you can't get to it from the top.
One day someone will invent an unscrewable syphon top - that's all it needs to fix it from the top!
I got a new syphon.
But
You have to take the tank off the wall with these systems that sit on the back of the pan.
Close the water off first.
http://www.jock-of-all-trades.com/2012/09/replace-...
looks easy there
I took 5 hours every not bolt washer was corroded to he..
looks easy there
I took 5 hours every not bolt washer was corroded to he..
Edited by x type on Tuesday 21st May 21:41
Hoink said:
Plumber it is then
Actually it's not too difficult for a DIYer, just a bit long-winded for what should be a simple job.Worst part is sealing the new syphon into the tank - the whole load of water will fall out into the bathroom if you don't seal it properly.
Plumbers know how to do this easily - I didn't, but I used some silicone sealant and a new washer, also a new rubber doughnut is wise.
Do up the large hex nut quite tight and test the tank for leaks before you put it back.
Hoink said:
VinceFox said:
Hoink said:
I'm going to investigate - this could save me a few quid. It's the downstairs toilet so not the end of the world if it goes wrong!
do it, it's a faff but technically very simple.also, here's a tip: when you refit and seal everything on the bottom of the cistern, hold it up in the bath and fill it with a bit of water to test for leaks BEFORE you bolt it all back together over the floor.
VinceFox said:
Hoink said:
VinceFox said:
Hoink said:
I'm going to investigate - this could save me a few quid. It's the downstairs toilet so not the end of the world if it goes wrong!
do it, it's a faff but technically very simple.also, here's a tip: when you refit and seal everything on the bottom of the cistern, hold it up in the bath and fill it with a bit of water to test for leaks BEFORE you bolt it all back together over the floor.
I'm not trying anything fancy
Thanks everyone!
beko1987 said:
Our siphon membrane thing split and rendered the bog useless. I bodged it up by making a skin out of gaffer tape, and 6 months on it still works, so left it!
you can make it out of other stuff but tbh the unit is so cheap and it replaces all the other worn bits at the same time.x type said:
http://www.jock-of-all-trades.com/2012/09/replace-...
looks easy there
I took 5 hours every not bolt washer was corroded to he..
I have never had to dismantle so much when replacing a diaphragm in a cistern. Judging by the blue top in the pictures I imagine the valve assembly is held together with a couple of threaded couplers. If it is you can dismantle in situ.looks easy there
I took 5 hours every not bolt washer was corroded to he..
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