The tuscan now handleds like it should! Track and tyre stuff
Discussion
Since i got my tuscan i've constantly been trying to improve it, each tweak has given success, but until today i never really got what i wanted, i'm so happy right now as its finally starting to really handle well.
I'm very particular and know what i want from the car and just havent got it until now. I'll list what ive got/done and tell the best i can.
So geometry
2.5 deg negative rear
1.5 neg front
0 toe front
24 mins total toe in rear
max castor
more neg rear induces understeer- a nasty word yes but with a car like this power oversteer is a prod away at any time
i wanted to neutralise the car, its worked well imo, still arse happy but better.
0 front toe: most toe in for stability, but ou lose that feel which is so important, i'd toe out if i didnt care for tyres. Plus its so stable upto silly generally unobtainable speeds (150 ish) i darent go more but would in the right enviroment.
steering rack raised: big difference, very very little bump steer now. i can sit at 120 with one hand on the wheel (not that i would but saying to illustrate) with ease in relative calm (on a autobahn of course)
gaz mono: very compliant and a huge upgrade from gaz gold pro let alone standard, feels quality. i do feel theres still room to improve, i think stiffer would be good. currently 450 fr and 400 rear. still a bit of pitch and squat, maybe thats a good thing i don't know.
wheels: rotas, much lighter than standard, i cant remember exactly but they are about 3kgs per rim iirc. An instant and noticible improvement, the car just felt better and a bit more agile. The offsets are lower (cant remember off the top of my head but can find out easily if anyone needs to know) so no spacers and a slightly wider track. 8.5 front, 9.5 rear (nice dish
) again a massive improvement in tramlining, bump steer and feel.
So this week i changed my yoko ad08. I'm sure when they were new they were good but recently not so, they just felt hard, so excessive wheelspin and random breaking away mid corner, i was getting a bit fed up as i've done all the above but the mid corner oversteer was there and the wheelspin was just silly.
on went some federal 595 rsr, i heat cycled them as recomended, i never did that with the yokos so maybe thats why i never got on with them. I'm told these track type tyres need heat cycleing properly for the compounds to set properly.
Onto today: bedford autodrome.
The morning was strange, the tyres felt stickier but the rear still felt squirmy, when they did break away it resulted in a not very progressive loss and then into a huge spin, i span 3 times today in the dry, yes i was pushing but still not normal, i span so hard once i snapped the seat bolster! People do say i'm putting weight on haha.
I then played with pressures, i could feel something wasnt right, i started with 20 all round because any more than that on the yokos felt like i was driving on glass.
I ended up with 28 rear and 26 front when the tyres were warm (not hot) so maybe a psi or so lower cold.
Oh my!!!!!
What a difference, i was throwing it about with confidence finally, progressive break away and just so much grip, the tyres wernt going off at all after 15 min sessions or hard driving (im talking 9'10ths here).
So i thought id share that as maybe it will help someone else with an ill handling tvr. The tyres made the biggest difference i think, maybe just pulling all the rest together.
I made a vid on the iphone, it doesnt give much sensation of speed but towards the end going past the v8 m3 and then playing with the caterham i think theres a reasonable sensation. The caterham was the quickest ive seen driven, usually they are fodder but this was either quick or well driven, upto around 100 it was very quick! Maybe bike engineed i dont know
Around 5.30 onwards is good and then around 8mins onwards
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfQE6acX80Y
Thanks
I'm very particular and know what i want from the car and just havent got it until now. I'll list what ive got/done and tell the best i can.
So geometry
2.5 deg negative rear
1.5 neg front
0 toe front
24 mins total toe in rear
max castor
more neg rear induces understeer- a nasty word yes but with a car like this power oversteer is a prod away at any time
i wanted to neutralise the car, its worked well imo, still arse happy but better.0 front toe: most toe in for stability, but ou lose that feel which is so important, i'd toe out if i didnt care for tyres. Plus its so stable upto silly generally unobtainable speeds (150 ish) i darent go more but would in the right enviroment.
steering rack raised: big difference, very very little bump steer now. i can sit at 120 with one hand on the wheel (not that i would but saying to illustrate) with ease in relative calm (on a autobahn of course)
gaz mono: very compliant and a huge upgrade from gaz gold pro let alone standard, feels quality. i do feel theres still room to improve, i think stiffer would be good. currently 450 fr and 400 rear. still a bit of pitch and squat, maybe thats a good thing i don't know.
wheels: rotas, much lighter than standard, i cant remember exactly but they are about 3kgs per rim iirc. An instant and noticible improvement, the car just felt better and a bit more agile. The offsets are lower (cant remember off the top of my head but can find out easily if anyone needs to know) so no spacers and a slightly wider track. 8.5 front, 9.5 rear (nice dish
) again a massive improvement in tramlining, bump steer and feel.So this week i changed my yoko ad08. I'm sure when they were new they were good but recently not so, they just felt hard, so excessive wheelspin and random breaking away mid corner, i was getting a bit fed up as i've done all the above but the mid corner oversteer was there and the wheelspin was just silly.
on went some federal 595 rsr, i heat cycled them as recomended, i never did that with the yokos so maybe thats why i never got on with them. I'm told these track type tyres need heat cycleing properly for the compounds to set properly.
Onto today: bedford autodrome.
The morning was strange, the tyres felt stickier but the rear still felt squirmy, when they did break away it resulted in a not very progressive loss and then into a huge spin, i span 3 times today in the dry, yes i was pushing but still not normal, i span so hard once i snapped the seat bolster! People do say i'm putting weight on haha.
I then played with pressures, i could feel something wasnt right, i started with 20 all round because any more than that on the yokos felt like i was driving on glass.
I ended up with 28 rear and 26 front when the tyres were warm (not hot) so maybe a psi or so lower cold.
Oh my!!!!!
What a difference, i was throwing it about with confidence finally, progressive break away and just so much grip, the tyres wernt going off at all after 15 min sessions or hard driving (im talking 9'10ths here).
So i thought id share that as maybe it will help someone else with an ill handling tvr. The tyres made the biggest difference i think, maybe just pulling all the rest together.
I made a vid on the iphone, it doesnt give much sensation of speed but towards the end going past the v8 m3 and then playing with the caterham i think theres a reasonable sensation. The caterham was the quickest ive seen driven, usually they are fodder but this was either quick or well driven, upto around 100 it was very quick! Maybe bike engineed i dont know
Around 5.30 onwards is good and then around 8mins onwards
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfQE6acX80Y
Thanks
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