Should the blocks in a block paving drive move?
Discussion
I suspect this is a daft question but I we have recently moved house and now have a block driveway.
One section of it has already sunk from the previous owners car so needs fixing but when I was clearing the weeds out from the other section that looks OK I found that most of the blocks moved slightly?
If this normal (I suspect not)? The blocks have a small gap between them and there is moss growing in the cracks where I thought they should be pretty much touching against each other?
One section of it has already sunk from the previous owners car so needs fixing but when I was clearing the weeds out from the other section that looks OK I found that most of the blocks moved slightly?
If this normal (I suspect not)? The blocks have a small gap between them and there is moss growing in the cracks where I thought they should be pretty much touching against each other?
As a paving company i'll tell you the most likely reasons blocks are moving.
Either theres no kiln at all in the blocks, typically caused by enthusiastic jet washers in the past who have then not bothered to let the blocks properly dry out and then re sand them.
The other problem is that sometimes when your all finished and you need to wack the surface at the end it has rained. Now you wait for the surface to dry out but the problem can be that the sides of the blocks are still wet which means the kiln sand cant get into the joints, leaving just the top few mm of the joint looking like its filled.
What you have to do is now a disaster from a pavers point of view. You need to get it all wacked then get a hose out and actually wash the sand in which then creates a slurry, filling the joints. The once its dried out (which can take a while if its cold or even north facing) is top them up properly.
Of course most people wont bother because it turns maybe an hours work into a good half a days work then another visit to top up properly!
This can be a real problem, even in the summer you can get a couple of days rain which can potentially mean wet joints and nothing going in them
Either theres no kiln at all in the blocks, typically caused by enthusiastic jet washers in the past who have then not bothered to let the blocks properly dry out and then re sand them.
The other problem is that sometimes when your all finished and you need to wack the surface at the end it has rained. Now you wait for the surface to dry out but the problem can be that the sides of the blocks are still wet which means the kiln sand cant get into the joints, leaving just the top few mm of the joint looking like its filled.
What you have to do is now a disaster from a pavers point of view. You need to get it all wacked then get a hose out and actually wash the sand in which then creates a slurry, filling the joints. The once its dried out (which can take a while if its cold or even north facing) is top them up properly.
Of course most people wont bother because it turns maybe an hours work into a good half a days work then another visit to top up properly!
This can be a real problem, even in the summer you can get a couple of days rain which can potentially mean wet joints and nothing going in them
m3jappa said:
As a paving company i'll tell you the most likely reasons blocks are moving.
Either theres no kiln at all in the blocks, typically caused by enthusiastic jet washers in the past who have then not bothered to let the blocks properly dry out and then re sand them.
The other problem is that sometimes when your all finished and you need to wack the surface at the end it has rained. Now you wait for the surface to dry out but the problem can be that the sides of the blocks are still wet which means the kiln sand cant get into the joints, leaving just the top few mm of the joint looking like its filled.
What you have to do is now a disaster from a pavers point of view. You need to get it all wacked then get a hose out and actually wash the sand in which then creates a slurry, filling the joints. The once its dried out (which can take a while if its cold or even north facing) is top them up properly.
Of course most people wont bother because it turns maybe an hours work into a good half a days work then another visit to top up properly!
This can be a real problem, even in the summer you can get a couple of days rain which can potentially mean wet joints and nothing going in them
So are you saying the OP's drive is repairable? and if so, how?Either theres no kiln at all in the blocks, typically caused by enthusiastic jet washers in the past who have then not bothered to let the blocks properly dry out and then re sand them.
The other problem is that sometimes when your all finished and you need to wack the surface at the end it has rained. Now you wait for the surface to dry out but the problem can be that the sides of the blocks are still wet which means the kiln sand cant get into the joints, leaving just the top few mm of the joint looking like its filled.
What you have to do is now a disaster from a pavers point of view. You need to get it all wacked then get a hose out and actually wash the sand in which then creates a slurry, filling the joints. The once its dried out (which can take a while if its cold or even north facing) is top them up properly.
Of course most people wont bother because it turns maybe an hours work into a good half a days work then another visit to top up properly!
This can be a real problem, even in the summer you can get a couple of days rain which can potentially mean wet joints and nothing going in them
I dont have the dimensions but is is a (small) double driveway.
Here is a picture:
The area that has sunk is on the right hand side by between the two manhole covers. You can see it if you zoom in and is quite a pronounced 'v' shape where the tyres have rolled over it many times.
Any idea how much that would cost to fix?
Here is a picture:
The area that has sunk is on the right hand side by between the two manhole covers. You can see it if you zoom in and is quite a pronounced 'v' shape where the tyres have rolled over it many times.
Any idea how much that would cost to fix?
Edited by KTF on Monday 26th August 17:25
.Since it is only a small area, and between two "datums", ie the manhole cover and the edging, I'd be tempted to have a go at that as a DIY fix.
There might be a lack of hardcore under that area, so after a bit of digging, throw in half a barrow of handmixed concrete, top up with more sand, and you could drop in the old blocks back in the same place.
There might be a lack of hardcore under that area, so after a bit of digging, throw in half a barrow of handmixed concrete, top up with more sand, and you could drop in the old blocks back in the same place.
Every paving query should be pointed to Pavingexpert. 
If the main area has remained level\not sunk, there's no harm in re-sanding that for now when it's dry - it's dirt cheap to do and will prevent the blocks moving, which will help hold it together until you're ready to relay the blocks.
The area to the right of the picture needs lifted and relaid properly. I'd probably also excavate the bank and build a small retaining wall, and lay the driveway "flat", rather than up a hillside.
http://www.pavingexpert.com/bpvseq01.htm - newbuild
http://www.pavingexpert.com/refurb_00.htm - repair
If the main area has remained level\not sunk, there's no harm in re-sanding that for now when it's dry - it's dirt cheap to do and will prevent the blocks moving, which will help hold it together until you're ready to relay the blocks.
The area to the right of the picture needs lifted and relaid properly. I'd probably also excavate the bank and build a small retaining wall, and lay the driveway "flat", rather than up a hillside.
http://www.pavingexpert.com/bpvseq01.htm - newbuild
http://www.pavingexpert.com/refurb_00.htm - repair
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