The Doors - Sound proofing and Electrics
Discussion
In the pursuit of lightness I have deiced to put myself on diet and make the car fatter.
So as I slowly starve to death I'm gathering parts to fit electric mirrors and windows to the car.
Questions
1. Does anyone have a rover 75 electric mirror wiring diagram and/or any photos of how you fit these?
2. What gauge of wire should I use for these and the electric windows?
While I have the door cards off and the windows out, I was going to sound proof the doors with something like Dynamat, has anyone anyone else done this.
If so what did you use?
Some people add flashing tape, but this is heavy.
I’m leaning towards Dynamat superlite at the moment.
The standard stuff is 2.2kg /sqM about 1 kg per door
Superlite is 30% thinner and lighter.
So as I slowly starve to death I'm gathering parts to fit electric mirrors and windows to the car.
Questions
1. Does anyone have a rover 75 electric mirror wiring diagram and/or any photos of how you fit these?
2. What gauge of wire should I use for these and the electric windows?
While I have the door cards off and the windows out, I was going to sound proof the doors with something like Dynamat, has anyone anyone else done this.
If so what did you use?
Some people add flashing tape, but this is heavy.
I’m leaning towards Dynamat superlite at the moment.
The standard stuff is 2.2kg /sqM about 1 kg per door
Superlite is 30% thinner and lighter.
I was delighted to go from non working electric windows in my TVR, to nice manual reliable ones in the Noble.
I like being able to close my windows right up to the top, even if the battery is flat or if the earth is poor due to fibre glass bodywork.
Can't open the passenger side from the driver's seat, especially when wearing the harness, but that doesn't bother me too much.
Same with the mirrors.
I like being able to close my windows right up to the top, even if the battery is flat or if the earth is poor due to fibre glass bodywork.
Can't open the passenger side from the driver's seat, especially when wearing the harness, but that doesn't bother me too much.
Same with the mirrors.
Nailgundan said:
Is it known if the electric mirrors suffer with the same "speed wobble" and need of adjustment on every door close that the manual ones do?
I would think they would be a huge improvement even if you didn't bother to wire them up.And if you do wire them up they will be even better. I love the electric mirrors on mine - I think they make a huge difference on a Noble

Do it the Australian way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1AxO6Bt-kk
V1DL3R said:
Do it the Australian way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1AxO6Bt-kk
universal kit is great and relatively easy to installBut what I did was remove ALL the window mechanism and replace it with my own modified dedicated mechanism with the motor built in... this then allows the window to go down all the way and is actually lighter than the original mechanism, to me it was worth doing just for the extra window opening.
Its also cheap at well under £100 all in!!!
the downside is there isn't a kit so you have to design and make it yourself, then design in the adjustments as well as doing the adjustments so it goes up and down properly, not easy and very time consuming... I estimate close to 1 week work for me... but fortunately i don't charge myself labour and like a challenge

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