Honda Prelude Type 'S' Supercharged K20
Discussion
Hello guys,
Never knew there was a 'Readers Cars' section so here is mine
This model was not long since featured in 'Shed of the Week' but mines a little bit special!
Here are some photo's for now & i'll update with some build photo's and info a bit later:
Car as it currently stands with the new front splitter:
Engine bay shot when I took it to a run what you brung drag racing event.
Here is a quick vid racing my mates Astra VXR with a remap and 3" exhaust:
http://youtu.be/FkQkgh314No
The engine is out again to fit a few things and sort out the wiring mess!
Never knew there was a 'Readers Cars' section so here is mine
This model was not long since featured in 'Shed of the Week' but mines a little bit special!
Here are some photo's for now & i'll update with some build photo's and info a bit later:
Car as it currently stands with the new front splitter:
Engine bay shot when I took it to a run what you brung drag racing event.
Here is a quick vid racing my mates Astra VXR with a remap and 3" exhaust:
http://youtu.be/FkQkgh314No
The engine is out again to fit a few things and sort out the wiring mess!
Edited by Mudgey on Thursday 9th January 17:02
So more info first followed by pictures.
The car is a 5th Gen Prelude Type S built in 1996. Here is a blatant rip from Wiki, it explains in brief about this special version of the Lude:
One version of the fifth generation Prelude, a high-performance model called the Type S, was only available in Japan. It was equipped with the 2.2 L H22A, featuring VTEC and producing 217 hp (162 kW; 220 PS) at 7,200 rpm and 163 lbf·ft (221 N·m) at 6,500 rpm. With a compression ratio of 11.0:1, 87.0 mm (3.4 in) bore x 90.7 mm (3.6 in) stroke and VTEC-valve timing, lift and duration were adjusted to 12.2 mm (0.5 in) intake and 11.2 mm (0.4 in) exhaust. Honda also overhauled the air box and replaced it with a more efficient design that is often referred to as Dynamic Chambering, along with a larger throttle body design bored to 62 mm (as opposed to the previous 60 mm). The exhaust system was also treated to a redesign, with the pipe cross sections becoming more cylindrical rather than oval. The three-way catalytic converter was also increased in size, as well as the exhaust piping from 2 to 2¼ in (51 to 57 mm) (tToV). In addition to a higher output engine both Type S and USDM Type SH featured an overhauled front suspension layout which offered a more effective camber curve. The fifth generation curb weight was 1,310 kg (2,880 lb), and ground clearance was 140 mm (5.5 in)[citation needed]. Unlike the SiR S-spec that had an LSD, the Type S acquired the Honda technology known as the Active Torque Transfer System (ATTS). The gearing on the Type S matches all other fifth-generation Preludes that had a manual transmission except for the five-speed 2.2 VTi VTEC and had a final drive ratio of 4.266:1. The Type S had an Active Control ABS system, different from the others which had the standard ABS systems. The interior featured newly developed Carbon and Excene upholstered seats which most people see it as leather and alcantara laced with red stitching. Manufacturer styling options included seat lettering. The exterior styling of fifth generation Preludes was standardized for most models. All had a sunroof except for the Type S model.
I have owned a number of different Honda's but have always had something for the prelude! I had the Type S for around a year before I decided I wanted something with more power but didn't like what else was available for around under 10k. I was looking at Evo 8's, Subraru's, E46 M3's and nothing really took my fancy. I then decided I will go down the route of more power but the more I looked into it the more I read about the H22 being a bit more difficult to tune than the B and D series motors, also the type S gearbox can give issues the more power you run through it. I decided an enghine transplant was in order and ended up buying a whole supercharged CTR to break.
The car is a 5th Gen Prelude Type S built in 1996. Here is a blatant rip from Wiki, it explains in brief about this special version of the Lude:
One version of the fifth generation Prelude, a high-performance model called the Type S, was only available in Japan. It was equipped with the 2.2 L H22A, featuring VTEC and producing 217 hp (162 kW; 220 PS) at 7,200 rpm and 163 lbf·ft (221 N·m) at 6,500 rpm. With a compression ratio of 11.0:1, 87.0 mm (3.4 in) bore x 90.7 mm (3.6 in) stroke and VTEC-valve timing, lift and duration were adjusted to 12.2 mm (0.5 in) intake and 11.2 mm (0.4 in) exhaust. Honda also overhauled the air box and replaced it with a more efficient design that is often referred to as Dynamic Chambering, along with a larger throttle body design bored to 62 mm (as opposed to the previous 60 mm). The exhaust system was also treated to a redesign, with the pipe cross sections becoming more cylindrical rather than oval. The three-way catalytic converter was also increased in size, as well as the exhaust piping from 2 to 2¼ in (51 to 57 mm) (tToV). In addition to a higher output engine both Type S and USDM Type SH featured an overhauled front suspension layout which offered a more effective camber curve. The fifth generation curb weight was 1,310 kg (2,880 lb), and ground clearance was 140 mm (5.5 in)[citation needed]. Unlike the SiR S-spec that had an LSD, the Type S acquired the Honda technology known as the Active Torque Transfer System (ATTS). The gearing on the Type S matches all other fifth-generation Preludes that had a manual transmission except for the five-speed 2.2 VTi VTEC and had a final drive ratio of 4.266:1. The Type S had an Active Control ABS system, different from the others which had the standard ABS systems. The interior featured newly developed Carbon and Excene upholstered seats which most people see it as leather and alcantara laced with red stitching. Manufacturer styling options included seat lettering. The exterior styling of fifth generation Preludes was standardized for most models. All had a sunroof except for the Type S model.
I have owned a number of different Honda's but have always had something for the prelude! I had the Type S for around a year before I decided I wanted something with more power but didn't like what else was available for around under 10k. I was looking at Evo 8's, Subraru's, E46 M3's and nothing really took my fancy. I then decided I will go down the route of more power but the more I looked into it the more I read about the H22 being a bit more difficult to tune than the B and D series motors, also the type S gearbox can give issues the more power you run through it. I decided an enghine transplant was in order and ended up buying a whole supercharged CTR to break.
When I first got the Civic Type R:
Ops!
Got the engine out, there is no going back now!
Finally got the shell stripped of everything worth selling and organised a scrappy to come collect only to find he turned up with a crane-less truck! Cr*p!!! 8 of us managed to mandhandle the shell onto the back of the truck, man was it heavy though!!
Started tidying up the motor:
Stuck the Type R wheels on the lude whilst I was stripping the CTR down, eventually it was time to start on the lude:
H22 Motor out. This motor was noticeably heavier than the K20, the engine is physically bigger and also the unit has the ATTS module which sits where the half shaft would otherwise be.
The new home of the K20, the bay is about twice the size of the Type R! Should be a doddle then..
First parts made!
Injector spacers fitted to a shiney new fuel rail
Lovely new K-Tuned gear cable bracket:
I seem to have jumped quite a bit here, the motor has its new rocker cover, my spark plug cover and its in for a test fit This image also shows how much space is available in front & behind the subframe, the Lude's engine bay is absolutely massive!!
Hmm, the engine needs to go as far back as possible but the gearbox cut out is now on the otherside of the subframe...
You can see in this image how close the gearbox is to the rear subframe:
First engine mount designed:
Also finished my bracket to hold my Brodit iPhone holder inplace of the original clock. Fits lovely with the data cable routed in behind the dashboard:
Ops!
Got the engine out, there is no going back now!
Finally got the shell stripped of everything worth selling and organised a scrappy to come collect only to find he turned up with a crane-less truck! Cr*p!!! 8 of us managed to mandhandle the shell onto the back of the truck, man was it heavy though!!
Started tidying up the motor:
Stuck the Type R wheels on the lude whilst I was stripping the CTR down, eventually it was time to start on the lude:
H22 Motor out. This motor was noticeably heavier than the K20, the engine is physically bigger and also the unit has the ATTS module which sits where the half shaft would otherwise be.
The new home of the K20, the bay is about twice the size of the Type R! Should be a doddle then..
First parts made!
Injector spacers fitted to a shiney new fuel rail
Lovely new K-Tuned gear cable bracket:
I seem to have jumped quite a bit here, the motor has its new rocker cover, my spark plug cover and its in for a test fit
This image also shows how much space is available in front & behind the subframe, the Lude's engine bay is absolutely massive!!
Hmm, the engine needs to go as far back as possible but the gearbox cut out is now on the otherside of the subframe...
You can see in this image how close the gearbox is to the rear subframe:
First engine mount designed:
Also finished my bracket to hold my Brodit iPhone holder inplace of the original clock. Fits lovely with the data cable routed in behind the dashboard:
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:32
The sump cannot sit any lower than the middle brace that connects the two front subframes, looking good so far though I know its going to be tight..
Test fitted newly made gaskets:
Checking clearances with supercharger installed:
First engine mount made:
More parts arriving:
6 Speed in a prelude?? Yes please!
Gearbox engine mount designed, made & fitted:
Custom throttle cable bracket, luckily the throttle cable fits the Tbody and is long enough!
The beautiful K-Swap header has arrived, oh yea! Shame its at the back of the engine and out of sight...
The bay is starting to fill up now:
Rear engine mount being fabricated:
Trial fitted, hmm that exhaust is tight!!
The HEL headquarters is local, went in and got a decent price on this custom clutch hose:
Originally going to use the standard battery and made a custom battery tray:
Test fitted newly made gaskets:
Checking clearances with supercharger installed:
First engine mount made:
More parts arriving:
6 Speed in a prelude?? Yes please!
Gearbox engine mount designed, made & fitted:
Custom throttle cable bracket, luckily the throttle cable fits the Tbody and is long enough!
The beautiful K-Swap header has arrived, oh yea! Shame its at the back of the engine and out of sight...
The bay is starting to fill up now:
Rear engine mount being fabricated:
Trial fitted, hmm that exhaust is tight!!
The HEL headquarters is local, went in and got a decent price on this custom clutch hose:
Originally going to use the standard battery and made a custom battery tray:
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:39
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 16:44
Another part has arrived! This is my double din fascia panel.
Here it is almost fully assembled. The silver button is temp until I find a black one! This button is to turn the supercharger on/off, when I ever get it wired in the button will keep the bypas valve permanently in vacuum enabling the supercharger to be fully bypassed at all throttle conditions. This should save some power driving at part throttle where the bypass will be open..
Aircon parts fully removed:
Supercharger fully buttoned up and modified auto tensioner fitted:
hmmm, i REALLY need a set of these wheels:
Here it is almost fully assembled. The silver button is temp until I find a black one! This button is to turn the supercharger on/off, when I ever get it wired in the button will keep the bypas valve permanently in vacuum enabling the supercharger to be fully bypassed at all throttle conditions. This should save some power driving at part throttle where the bypass will be open..
Aircon parts fully removed:
Supercharger fully buttoned up and modified auto tensioner fitted:
hmmm, i REALLY need a set of these wheels:
I hated the position of the old battery and didn't want to put it in the boot, hmmm, what to do? Lightweight racing battery of course!
Fuel regulator, feed and return plumbed in:
Rear chassis side of engine mount:
I am lucky enough that the original prelude gear shifters bolt straight up, BUT, as the cables originally went 90 degree's to the drivers side one is a good 6" longer than the other, unfortunately one wouldnt fit and so I had to make a little extension piece. Fortunately the k20 gearbox linkages require less movement to engage gear and so effectively it feels like a short shift kit has been fitted.
Battery cut off switch:
Custom battery tray:
Rear engine mount powdercoated and installed:
Battery cut off fitted:
Race battery fitted down behind the driverside fog light:
Fuel regulator, feed and return plumbed in:
Rear chassis side of engine mount:
I am lucky enough that the original prelude gear shifters bolt straight up, BUT, as the cables originally went 90 degree's to the drivers side one is a good 6" longer than the other, unfortunately one wouldnt fit and so I had to make a little extension piece. Fortunately the k20 gearbox linkages require less movement to engage gear and so effectively it feels like a short shift kit has been fitted.
Battery cut off switch:
Custom battery tray:
Rear engine mount powdercoated and installed:
Battery cut off fitted:
Race battery fitted down behind the driverside fog light:
I caved in in the end and got my Rota Grid Offroads +35's, there was only one set I could find ANYWHERE and had to import them in from the USA They do a set of +45's but they would stick out too far. First trial fit:
Replacing the fuel pump for a Walbro 044 I think..
Car sat in the corner of the garage looking mean:
I don't have any video of my first drives but it needed more work... Engine mounts were hard as hell, everything vibrated... A LOT.. Also over bumps the drivers side drive shaft was bottoming out in the CV joint... god damnit..
Engine mounts, take two..
Finally got the engine shifted across further, new mounts fitted to use an OEM rear rubber and installed a K24 half shaft which is slightly shorter. Then I was able to enjoy the car for a bit in the summer with mates:
Unfortunately at work some Nobbo reversed into the car and drove off
Luckily I caught it on CCTV and got a payout to fix the car.
The car is now off the road again to have some more parts fitted. Things I have planned or half way through:
1. MFactory Helical LSD.
2. New headgasket, currently emitting a bit of white smoke
3. Fit ARP head studs.
4. Modify water pump so I can use original driverside engine mount.
5. Tidy up wiring.
6. Install MR2 electric power steering pump.
7. Fit the next revision of the gearbox mount.
8. Tidy up vacuum & charge harness routing.
9. Install a Vacuum canister & a Mac solenoid to enable boost by gear.
Replacing the fuel pump for a Walbro 044 I think..
Car sat in the corner of the garage looking mean:
I don't have any video of my first drives but it needed more work... Engine mounts were hard as hell, everything vibrated... A LOT.. Also over bumps the drivers side drive shaft was bottoming out in the CV joint... god damnit..
Engine mounts, take two..
Finally got the engine shifted across further, new mounts fitted to use an OEM rear rubber and installed a K24 half shaft which is slightly shorter. Then I was able to enjoy the car for a bit in the summer with mates:
Unfortunately at work some Nobbo reversed into the car and drove off
Luckily I caught it on CCTV and got a payout to fix the car.
The car is now off the road again to have some more parts fitted. Things I have planned or half way through:
1. MFactory Helical LSD.
2. New headgasket, currently emitting a bit of white smoke
3. Fit ARP head studs.
4. Modify water pump so I can use original driverside engine mount.
5. Tidy up wiring.
6. Install MR2 electric power steering pump.
7. Fit the next revision of the gearbox mount.
8. Tidy up vacuum & charge harness routing.
9. Install a Vacuum canister & a Mac solenoid to enable boost by gear.
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 17:05
Edited by Mudgey on Friday 10th January 17:19
dragonheart said:
Are you anywhere in the Devon area? Im sure i saw this car recently. looks great by the way.
Yea I am, the cars been off the road since end of November so if you saw one after this time it wasn't mine!Most recent images of parts and work completed:
Head studs fitted:
New gearbox engine mount:
Top of new mount incorporating some adjustability:
MFactoty helical LSD, car will light up in 2nd gear dry and 3rd in the wet, this will hopefully get my quarter mile times down a little too
Water pump oil cooler line blocked and rerouted elsewhere:
New Cam chain cover engine mount and original OEM rubber mount, should be buttery smooth now!
MR2 Electric power steering pump:
Power steering bracket:
K-Pro V3 to be fitted instead of the K100, this will allow me to run boost by gear as 1st is useless..
Unfortunately my inlet manifold cracked, once the engine is back in I shall be designing a support so this doesnt happen again.
Newly made 3mm stainless spark plug cover with CS m6 bolts:
Thats where I am at for now!
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