Discussion
When i found mine had seized even leaving them a week in penetrating oil did nothing to help, nor did heating them with a blow torch. Also, the flats were not good so didnt want to risk rounding them off....Bit overkill maybe but this is what i did to get them out, pictures tell the story...





No damage to threads but new adjusters are cheap to buy new...
Phil.
No damage to threads but new adjusters are cheap to buy new...
Phil.
my250gt said:
When i found mine had seized even leaving them a week in penetrating oil did nothing to help, nor did heating them with a blow torch. Also, the flats were not good so didnt want to risk rounding them off....Bit overkill maybe but this is what i did to get them out, pictures tell the story...
No damage to threads but new adjusters are cheap to buy new...
Phil.
that looks horrific, but a great repair job there Phil. my question is though, how many other chim's and griff's have this same problem that are out there, and unable to ajust the the rear toe???No damage to threads but new adjusters are cheap to buy new...
Phil.
Mark
Edited by portzi on Wednesday 8th October 18:59
portzi said:
that looks herrific, but a great repair job there Phil. my question is though, how many other chim's and griff's have this same problem that are out there, and unable to ajust the the rear toe???
Mark
i would guess the vast majority.Mark
I have one seized but it was close enough when checked at S&D
Just freed off both of mine last week. They were very badly seized. What I did was after giving them the heat / Plus Gas treatment - instead of using an open ended spanner, I clamped the flats of big adjuster screw directly in a sturdy vise and then pushed hard on the wishbone to unscrew the adjuster - in effect using the wishbone itself as a breaker bar. This gives the loads of leverage needed. Needless to say the vise needs to be very firmly anchored………..
Plan B said:
Just freed off both of mine last week. They were very badly seized. What I did was after giving them the heat / Plus Gas treatment - instead of using an open ended spanner, I clamped the flats of big adjuster screw directly in a sturdy vise and then pushed hard on the wishbone to unscrew the adjuster - in effect using the wishbone itself as a breaker bar. This gives the loads of leverage needed. Needless to say the vise needs to be very firmly anchored………..
a simple but interesting thread on peoples trials and tribulations with their rear toes 
Hi,
I’m a non-TVR owner (can’t make my mind up).
Is this suggestion doable?
It looks to me that the toe adjusters are threaded inside and out and are secured with a thin nut against the wishbone.
When new, why not weld a full width nut of the correct thread size on the adjuster where the adjusting flats are located. A larger spanner could then be used when adjusting and if the adjuster was seized a socket and breaker bar could be used to free it off when dismantled.
Just a thought.
I’m a non-TVR owner (can’t make my mind up).
Is this suggestion doable?
It looks to me that the toe adjusters are threaded inside and out and are secured with a thin nut against the wishbone.
When new, why not weld a full width nut of the correct thread size on the adjuster where the adjusting flats are located. A larger spanner could then be used when adjusting and if the adjuster was seized a socket and breaker bar could be used to free it off when dismantled.
Just a thought.
Edited by lancepar on Thursday 9th October 18:46
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


