Discussion
I have read many conflicting things in relation to winter lay ups, one question I cannot seem to get a definite answer on is:
Is it better to leave the car until April? Or start her up and run it up to temp every 2-4 weeks?
I use to run the Chim to temp, use all electric and hear the cabin up well to help keep things dry every 3-4 weeks and that never seemed to cause any issues, is it the same with the Tuscan?
Is it better to leave the car until April? Or start her up and run it up to temp every 2-4 weeks?
I use to run the Chim to temp, use all electric and hear the cabin up well to help keep things dry every 3-4 weeks and that never seemed to cause any issues, is it the same with the Tuscan?
With the Cerbera .. I let sleeping dogs lie, I just cover it up with the optimate on and forget about it until spring. I've never had a problem in 6 years of ownership .
But each to there own , I know some people start there's up every now and again, but I don't see the point unless your gonna drive it.
But each to there own , I know some people start there's up every now and again, but I don't see the point unless your gonna drive it.
OutlawFlat4 said:
Out of interest, why should you with a SP6? Is this true of the AJP also?
Any car with a dry sump should be driven straight away. Starting a dry sump car and letting it idle from cold is bad bad news. Also,the oil pump isnt very effective at low rrvs. Lots of older cars hate to be idled from cold so its not good practise. The main thing is to drive carefully, keep the revs down but also not to put the engine under too much load,especially low down the rev range when its warming up.
Huh the oil pump is turning in a direct relation to the crank. It's a direct drive. In simple terms idling a modern fuel injected car can be a problem, due to the fact that, to enable the car to start additional fuel is pumped in. This can lead to excess fuel in the cylinder and the oil potentially being washed away, therefore increased wear. The car warms up quicker if driven an the enrichment decreases.
Edited by m4tti on Tuesday 30th December 23:56
im a water engineer,all pumps when turning faster produce more pressure when pumping through the same aperture that doesn't mean there not producing enough
I would have thought the faster the engine is turning the more oil it needs anyway surely ?
what if you were stationary at 1200rpm?
I would have thought the faster the engine is turning the more oil it needs anyway surely ?
what if you were stationary at 1200rpm?
matt-man said:
Next time you are out in it,look at the oil pressure when idling vs at about 1200 rpm...
Not quite sure what your saying makes any mechanical sense. You've said above that the oil pump doesn't deliver enough oil to the relevant galleries and delivery points at low revs. But 1200 is ok. Even though there is a direct correlation to crank rotation. Anyway... 1200 rpm stationary unloaded means all the engine is doing is overcoming internal frictional losses. The engine works harder on the move to maintain 1200 rpm (for example) as it needs to overcome transmission resistance, air resistance etc etc resulting in higher cylinder pressures which result in higher cylinder temperatures and therefore the engine warming up quicker.
Edited by m4tti on Wednesday 31st December 16:33
yes the engine does work harder when on the move, but as said in the thread earlier the less loading the better.at this time of year my car hardly warms up at all on the move often taking some 10-15 miles to reach only 60 deg.(oil)
whereas stationary it only takes 10-15 mins. which is better?
I think we all agree on the importance of warming up properly that's the main thing
anyway I think we have strayed from the original post lol
whereas stationary it only takes 10-15 mins. which is better?
I think we all agree on the importance of warming up properly that's the main thing
anyway I think we have strayed from the original post lol
The two are interlinked. The car warms up quicker on the move due to the reasons above. On the move the you typically run at higher rpm and load. The oil viscosity reduces quicker and is likely delivered to those problem areas quicker. By driving you reduce the chance of bore wash and wear on the cylinders. The oil temp you see on the move can be misleading due to the location of the sensor.
Running the car stationary can make the car prone to bore wash and potential oil delivery problems.. But as you say the pump doesn't know whether your doing 1200 rpm loaded or unloaded so you could summarise the oil delivery issue is negligible.
And TVR established that cam/follower wear occurred on the original spec heads even if they were submerged in oil.
Running the car stationary can make the car prone to bore wash and potential oil delivery problems.. But as you say the pump doesn't know whether your doing 1200 rpm loaded or unloaded so you could summarise the oil delivery issue is negligible.
And TVR established that cam/follower wear occurred on the original spec heads even if they were submerged in oil.
Edited by m4tti on Wednesday 31st December 17:06
These days my car gets left for 6+ months at a time. Keeping it in a dry well ventilated garage is the most important bit. I also brim the fuel tank, pump up the tires to 40psi, and connect up a battery conditioner. That's it.
Always starts on the first turn. After a few seconds idling, I then hold the revs at 1200-1500 rpm for 30sec to make sure the oil has fully made it round the engine. Then I just drive off and warm it up as usual whilst listening and feeling for anything unusual.
Always starts on the first turn. After a few seconds idling, I then hold the revs at 1200-1500 rpm for 30sec to make sure the oil has fully made it round the engine. Then I just drive off and warm it up as usual whilst listening and feeling for anything unusual.
Perfect response 
Too many posts overcomplicating what is very simple. It's all about being sympathetic and using common sense. I've been told by the specialists who work on our engines to not be scared about letting them idle, as long as you initially increase the rpm as suggested, make sure the oil gets round until the rpm levels become stable, its then fine. They are not the brittle things that we continue to be reminded of by some. The reality is somewhat different and backed up by those that work on our engines for a living.
Too many posts overcomplicating what is very simple. It's all about being sympathetic and using common sense. I've been told by the specialists who work on our engines to not be scared about letting them idle, as long as you initially increase the rpm as suggested, make sure the oil gets round until the rpm levels become stable, its then fine. They are not the brittle things that we continue to be reminded of by some. The reality is somewhat different and backed up by those that work on our engines for a living.ShiDevil said:
Perfect response Too many posts overcomplicating what is very simple. It's all about being sympathetic and using common sense. I've been told by the specialists who work on our engines to not be scared about letting them idle, as long as you initially increase the rpm as suggested, make sure the oil gets round until the rpm levels become stable, its then fine. They are not the brittle things that we continue to be reminded of by some. The reality is somewhat different and backed up by those that work on our engines for a living.
+1 I'd also say that why not drive it? I guess tax can be saved but with the costs of a Tuscan I prefer to have it ready to drive and if it happens to be a nice day and not too cold I use it. Why not? Too many posts overcomplicating what is very simple. It's all about being sympathetic and using common sense. I've been told by the specialists who work on our engines to not be scared about letting them idle, as long as you initially increase the rpm as suggested, make sure the oil gets round until the rpm levels become stable, its then fine. They are not the brittle things that we continue to be reminded of by some. The reality is somewhat different and backed up by those that work on our engines for a living.absolutely, the most important thing is to warm it up before you start driving hard. I remember being told at a very early age to warm and engine and it will pay off in the long run and ive always stuck by that mentality and its served me well. I know many people who ignore it and get problem in the long run.
They are awesome cars and should be enjoyed!
They are awesome cars and should be enjoyed!
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