Rear Brake Pads

Author
Discussion

cre8toruk

Original Poster:

250 posts

137 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
Hi All,

well picked up my 56 Elise S today and drove all the way back from Bristol.
I noticed that she needed new brake pads on the rear... Can anyone tell me what pads I need to buy and where I can get them from ? Or should I use someone like B&C and get them to fit them while they're at it ?

8.

Tickle

4,906 posts

204 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
Elise Parts: http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/22/17/mint... the 1144 get good reviews, for roads use anyway.

Personally I wouldn't go to a specialist for the brake pads. Just make sure if you go to an independent they use the correct jacking locations!

Edited to add: Congratulations on the new car too beer

kambites

67,544 posts

221 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
I really wouldn't mix brake pad types! If you're going to replace the backs, either use whatever is already fitted or replace them all. I use Mintex 1144 and find them quite good for road use although they generate a lot of dust.

Do not use Greenstuff pads. They're appalling.

The Bandit

788 posts

195 months

Saturday 31st January 2015
quotequote all
As above, change the set and not just the rears (and avoid EBCs).
If you're near B&C then go to renowned local specialists Analogue Automotive in Petersfield or Back on Track in Guildford and don't pay dealer prices.
Well done getting the S, cracking little car by the way smile

400SE Dave

1,296 posts

171 months

Sunday 1st February 2015
quotequote all
Another vote for 1144's, dusty yes but much better grab than standard pads.

Do them yourself, easy job. Just remember the rear pistons screw back where as the front ones push back.

JACK6284

326 posts

223 months

Sunday 1st February 2015
quotequote all
Another vote for Mintex 1144 pads. Easy to do yourself just be careful jacking the car up.

cre8toruk

Original Poster:

250 posts

137 months

Tuesday 3rd February 2015
quotequote all
Right ok well the pads have arrived so weather permitting (it has been snowing today!) tcch.. I should be doing the rear pads at the weekend (or Friday)... Time to dust off the old spanners and sockets etc... The youtube video shows the guy pushing the piston back which is all fine but that brake fluid has to go somewhere.

I saw another video where he basically cracked the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure... My question is really if I do that (if I need to do that), won't I then have to bleed the brakes too ?

This isn't a problem but it'd be much easier if I didn't need to....

New centre console coming from Deroure too and a new wiper arm should be good fun ahead...

8.

400SE Dave

1,296 posts

171 months

Wednesday 4th February 2015
quotequote all
I am pretty sure the rear caliper pistons screw back but I am sure you will figure it out if you can't push them back. I did mine with a pair of long nose pliers.

As for the fluid, take the lid of the reservoir and puts some rags around it to catch any fluid that may come over the top. Personally I wouldn;t be losening the bleed nipple!!

kambites

67,544 posts

221 months

Wednesday 4th February 2015
quotequote all
Indeed. No need to open the bleed nipple and hence no need to bleed the brakes. smile

stevieput

20 posts

174 months

Saturday 7th February 2015
quotequote all
Rear caliber pistons screw back in. There's two holes in them for you to get purchase so either buy the correct tool or use a pair of long nose plier like I did. You may have to push and screw at the same time

cre8toruk

Original Poster:

250 posts

137 months

Saturday 7th February 2015
quotequote all
Yup... all done despite a 2 hour round trip to B&C to pick up a wheel nut extraction tool (not locking nut but the actual spline socket for the other 3 nuts!!)... I managed to get the first wheel done in about 40 mins (including jacking etc).. and the other I got done in the dark with a torch clamped between my jaw and shoulder in about 30 mins....

Hopefully I've got everything all done up etc... I used the ugghh torc method, which seemed to correspond to the uggh I had to give it to undo so I think I'm pretty safe :-)

Out for a drive today to New Milton / Lymington etc so should bed the pads in nicely. To be honest the old pads didn't look too bad, they were a bit crumbly around the edges and were in need of changing (probably the original pads, so 9 years old!)

Anyhow, I can add changing rear brake pads to my skillset now nice and easy job and saved myself about £200 in fitting charges... BARGAIN!

8.

400SE Dave

1,296 posts

171 months

Sunday 8th February 2015
quotequote all
Good man, well worth the effort.

I would have changed the fronts at the same time though, even easier than the rears as only held in by a couple of pins and the pistons push back. I'd strongly recommend to do it.

cre8toruk

Original Poster:

250 posts

137 months

Sunday 8th February 2015
quotequote all
Yeah I would have done but I think they've not been done very long and they look all new tbh...
I am getting a bit of moo at gentle braking but I figure it's just a bedding in issue.

8.

kambites

67,544 posts

221 months

Monday 9th February 2015
quotequote all
The age/wear level of the front pads isn't the point, really. The better pads on the back will provide more braking force per unit brake pressure than the fronts - you've probably just moved your brake balance backwards, possibly by a significant margin. I'd certainly recommend doing a few emergency stops in the wet, you might find the rears lock long before the fronts which is very hard to control and obviously not good for your stopping distances.

The Elise usually seems to lock its front first considerably before the rears so you might find it's still OK.