upvc window - cracking brickwork above

[CoolHands]

Hi

Our 30's house has had the original windows (& facias etc) replaced (badly) in the distant past by a cheap-arse dodgy company before we bought it. I want to replace the facias at some point, possibly this summer, maybe next.

But in the meantime I've noticed the bathroom window looks as if the bricks are sagging slightly and cracked. Not really that obvious but I think it is - there is slight cracking and gap above the upright bricks.







Can I insert a single leaf L10 lintel like this:



http://iglintels.com/lintels/standard-lintels/sing...

And is this a job a competent DIY-er could do (ahem, me), or is there some things that would be problematic? I've never done anything to do with lintels before. My dad would help and he's done a lot of various brickwork things in the past.

Edited by CoolHands on Sunday 10th May 19:56

[Spudler]

Perfectly doable for diy.
LAs are ideal for your situation.

[CoolHands]

thanks. Is about 150mm each side of the window about right size-wise? And LA means this type of lintel yeah? (after a quick google)



I promise no VAT comments will be forthcoming

[Busa mav]

The IG L10 is perfect for that situation. 150 end bearings are more than perfect.

[Spudler]

Yes 150 min as they tend to sag a little.
Good practice to support/prop in the middle as your relaying the soldier course.
Lintel in pic is an LA, identical to the other pic.
Get yourself a boat level, that will ensure the soldiers aren't going to war

[mgtony]

Depending on what type of lintel is there already, you might have to remove both the front and rear course of bricks to remove the existing lintel. Then you'll need either one or two lintels to make good. If you are doing that, you could take the new window upto the soffit board.

[andy43]

mgtony said:

If you are doing that, you could take the new window upto the soffit board.

If ceiling height allows it, that would be my option.

[ShiningWit]

mgtony said:

Depending on what type of lintel is there already, you might have to remove both the front and rear course of bricks to remove the existing lintel.

I doubt there is a lintel there.

[wolfracesonic]

^ +1 the head of the previous timber window would have acted as the lintel. Your only problem maybe the course of bricks above the soldiers, if they drop your best bet to re-instate them will be to put in 3 or 4 soldiers then slide a stretcher in on top of them and proceed like that until you've finished.

[moles]

Our upstairs windows have the same we have a 1800's cottage rubble stone wall, we have wooden windows at the minute which are supporting the wall plate directly on top. We are changing the windows for upvc is it ok to use flat steel for the lintel 8-10mm thick?. The wall plate has bent over the years and the current windows have been shaped to fit in with this so the reason for me wanting to use 8mm steel is that I can get it curved to the correct profile before removing the window. I take it putting upvc windows in with nothing between them and the old wall plate is a bad move!.

[TA14]

moles said:

Our upstairs windows have the same we have a 1800's cottage rubble stone wall, we have wooden windows at the minute which are supporting the wall plate directly on top. We are changing the windows for upvc is it ok to use flat steel for the lintel 8-10mm thick?. The wall plate has bent over the years and the current windows have been shaped to fit in with this so the reason for me wanting to use 8mm steel is that I can get it curved to the correct profile before removing the window. I take it putting upvc windows in with nothing between them and the old wall plate is a bad move!.

No, don't do that, fit an angle iron, say 80 x 80. What's the sag? can you jack it out? If not then jack some of it out, slate pack the bearings (I'd also stick it together with resin) and pack to support the lintol.

[SAB888]

mgtony said:

Depending on what type of lintel is there already, you might have to remove both the front and rear course of bricks to remove the existing lintel. Then you'll need either one or two lintels to make good. If you are doing that, you could take the new window upto the soffit board.

There should be a lintel on the inner skin, possibly a concrete one, but there is no sign of the lintel on the outer skin as there is mortar at the top of the window. Remember that the wall is supporting the roof although it is probably supported on the inner skin. There should also be a dpc across the cavity. You won't know until you investigate further.

[moles]

The sag is about 20-25mm over the window width which is only 1000mm wide.

TA14 said:

No, don't do that, fit an angle iron, say 80 x 80. What's the sag? can you jack it out? If not then jack some of it out, slate pack the bearings (I'd also stick it together with resin) and pack to support the lintol.