is there anybody there

is there anybody there

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barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Wednesday 3rd June 2015
quotequote all
Hi everyone is there anybody on here who lives in the north west of England with experience in lifting a chimera 400 engine out, if not can anyone tell me if its easier to just lift the engine and box out or separate them, I'm in the middle of a body lift and I am unable to remove one of the manifold bolts as its stuck fast and partially rounded off I can only get an open ended spanner on it but its slipping, I have no means of getting any heat to it and I'm in a lockup with a Genny for power any advice would be appreciated, I'm struggling as I have no knowledge around tvr and I'm partially disabled but willing to give it a go.

ChilliWhizz

11,990 posts

160 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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Can't answer the question, but you sir are the epitome of a TVR enthusiast, much respect!!!

I'll stick a link to this thread on the Chim forum, might get a better response..

Chilli smile

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
barnsweeper said:
Hi everyone is there anybody on here who lives in the north west of England with experience in lifting a chimera 400 engine out, if not can anyone tell me if its easier to just lift the engine and box out or separate them, I'm in the middle of a body lift and I am unable to remove one of the manifold bolts as its stuck fast and partially rounded off I can only get an open ended spanner on it but its slipping, I have no means of getting any heat to it and I'm in a lockup with a Genny for power any advice would be appreciated, I'm struggling as I have no knowledge around tvr and I'm partially disabled but willing to give it a go.
Dependant on which manifold bolt it is that is stuck fast and as long as there is only one stuck you could try the following: with only the one stuck bolt left in, try to rotate the manifold whilst holding the bolt as best you can with the spanner, this should crack off the bolt - this is the technique I used successfully on mine.

Are you doing a full body removal or just a lift?

Hope this helps

Ged

ukdj

1,004 posts

183 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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30 Step engine out guide .....

1. Drain the water from the bottom hose on the rad.
2. Take out the second bolt down on the nearside of the waterpump, 11mm on serp 13mm on pre serp, this will drain down all the water except the block.
3. Take off the plenum, 6mm hex key, 24mm for throttle cable, flat blade screwdriver for jubilee clips.
4. Disconnect the battery.
5. Next crack the 3 10mm bolts on the power steering pump, a good 10mm spanner a little tap with a hammer should do this, then a 15mm spanner to remove the belt
6. Remove alternator using 10mm socket and 13mm spanner, once it is loose you can take the wires off the back of it, underneath the black cover, (assuming it is a serp) 13mm socket and 10mm socket, lift away alternator
7. Remove belt tensioner 13mm socket,
8. Remove alternator bracket using 13mm socket.
9. Now there should be easy acces to remove bottom hose, and the hidden 13mm earth strap bolt.
10. Next is power steering pump pulley which you have already loosened in step 5. This is a bit of a fiddle but pulley will come out.
11. Removing cross member next, 17mm socket and spanner, leave the water tower on it as the power sterring pulley is removed you can wriggle it out complete.
12. The two exhaust clamps should be removed now. Using 10mm socket, take the nut completely off, tap the clamp on its edge with a chisel you will see the clamps have 3 bits to them, tap the chisel at the start of each part and it will spring off!
13. Under the power steering pump you will see the exhaust is attacthed to the block with a 13mm bolt; remove this, undo the exhaust 'Y' piece to system 'U' clamp using a 13mm spanner.
14. Wriggle the 'Y' piece and remove it.
16. On to the distributor: 9/16 spanner for the clamp bolt remove this and just pull!
17. Inlet manifold. Remove all wires to injectors etc, 13mm spanner for all the bolts, and screwdriver for fuel lines water pipes etc.
18. Next is the removal of 2 top bellhousing bolts using 9/16 spanner
19. Now the engine mount bolts, these are the rubbers to mounts 17mm nuts.

You are now done on top and need to jack the car up.

Working underneath:
20. First thing is the 13mm bolts for the slave cylinder, get a cable tie ready for this though as the piston can pop out, just wrap the cable tie around the bolt holes to hold piston in.
21. Next is the clutch "st" plate normally 8mm socket and spanner and 13 mm socket.
22. Remove the 13mm nut holding the starter leads on to the starter.
23. Using a pair of pliers, open up where the 100amp fuse is, get a 8mm socket and remove the front 8mm nut.
24. Onto the row of bellhousing bolts, 3 now left either side, use a 9/16 socket with a long extension
25. The remaining engine mounting mounting nuts need removing now 2 x 17mm nut and bolts, remove the nuts but leave the bolts in.
26. Take the oil filter off.

Now the engine is ready to be pulled out.

27. Making sure you have a jack taking the weight of the gearbox (you may need to in some cases pry the box off the engine) using a crane, take the weight of the engine and remove the 17mm engine bolts, lift/move the engine up around until you can take the rubber engine mounts off, DO NOT lift anymore than needed or you will crush the fuel lines across the top of the bellhousing.
28. Once the rubbers are removed you can pull the engine forward off the gearbox.
All these steps should be slow and careful just in case things are still connected!
29. Lift the engine and pull forward at the same time.
30. Finally (as is a pain in the arse to do in the car) remove the earth strap on the back of the nearside head using a 13mm spanner.

The engine should now be out!

phazed

21,844 posts

203 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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That is an impressive list!

Barreti

6,680 posts

236 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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Bloody great list Paul which has inspired me to create a new section in the Griff Parts List for really useful PH threads such as this.

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
Thanks everybody, the bolt that is stuck is on the nearside 2nd from front and underneath manifold unfortunately the last bolt along won't unscrew fully until the manifold is moved away from the engine, I have built a couple of hoists so that I can lift the body off completely off and leave it suspended and wheel the chassis out from underneath, the car is an not failure (outriggers) but it was left for 5 years in a damp garage and it looks like it has taken its toll on the rest of the chassis, also there was a fire about 4 doors down so the case is smoke damaged too which has eaten into the clearcoat, I spent 3 days rubbing down with farecla g3 which has removed 80% but will need the clear coat removing and redoing, there is also a bit of impact damage on the front offside wing which I will have to sort but hey ho nothing ventured, one good thing is after being stood for five years it started with first turn of the key and I went for a thrilling ride around the block with no problems, brakes,clutch steering all worked a treat which gave me a bit of encouragement. Thanks again for any suggestions, Jim.

Twistygit

800 posts

152 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
I hope I'm not insulting with my suggestion, but have you tried hitting it with a hammer, even if you can't hit the bolt hitting the manifold(gently) may shock it. Also I think the bolts are 9/16"AF but a 14mm is slightly smaller and might get a better grip

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
barnsweeper said:
Thanks everybody, the bolt that is stuck is on the nearside 2nd from front and underneath manifold unfortunately the last bolt along won't unscrew fully until the manifold is moved away from the engine,......
Can you see what type of exhaust gaskets are fitted?

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
thanks for all the suggestions, unfortunately i cant see the gasket, i am using a 14mm open ended spanner but it looks like the bolt has been abused in the past, ive tried tapping it with the hammer and i also modified a chisel from my sds hammer drill to fit over the end of the spanner and tried vibrating it round but because its a rubbish fit it just slips off, ill make a few more attempts tonight if unsuccesful i will just have to attempt to remove the engine, ive removed the battery, bonnet, Tank, all chassis bolts,swirl pot, header tank, radiator and air con condensor, seats + belts, Maf and pipework, exhaust y piece, Exhaust,and now im stuck for one bolt.

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
barnsweeper said:
thanks for all the suggestions, unfortunately i cant see the gasket, i am using a 14mm open ended spanner but it looks like the bolt has been abused in the past, ive tried tapping it with the hammer and i also modified a chisel from my sds hammer drill to fit over the end of the spanner and tried vibrating it round but because its a rubbish fit it just slips off, ill make a few more attempts tonight if unsuccesful i will just have to attempt to remove the engine, ive removed the battery, bonnet, Tank, all chassis bolts,swirl pot, header tank, radiator and air con condensor, seats + belts, Maf and pipework, exhaust y piece, Exhaust,and now im stuck for one bolt.
Don't forget the brake and clutch pipes at the bulkhead on the right hand side of the engine bay.

I'm not saying this will work as I haven't actually tried it but, as you are lifting the body off completely you might - and I mean might - be able to wiggle the body past the manifold as you lift, by the time you get to the restriction of the manifold to the body you may be able to manipulate the other side over the chassis rail giving enough room to pass by the left hand manifold. This will also depend on the configuration of your lifting gear, mine were configured so that the straps could in effect pivot about the centre line of the car.



Like I say, I didn't try it on my body lift but the amount of jiggle room I had once one side was free of the chassis, I would think it may be possible.
If you have your lifting gear rigged anyway, what have you got to lose?

Hope this helps

Ged



Danblez

276 posts

210 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
I cant add any more than has been said already but where in the NW are you? I have some experience wielding spanners and would be happy to help a fellow TVRer!

EDIT: Just seen from your profile you are in Preston, I am not far away in Southport, if I can be off any assistance give me a shout by email (in my profile)


barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
Thanks for that i may give that one a go, however thinking about your earlier suggestion re rotating the manifold if i mget in with a hacksaw blade and cut off the head of the partially removed bolt then unscrew it the rest of the way by hand i may be able to rotate the manifold, at worst it will mean a new gasket, things are looking up from at a loss to two options to try, Thanks everybody. Jim.

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
Danblez said:
I cant add any more than has been said already but where in the NW are you? I have some experience wielding spanners and would be happy to help a fellow TVRer!

EDIT: Just seen from your profile you are in Preston, I am not far away in Southport, if I can be off any assistance give me a shout by email (in my profile)
Hi thanks for that Ill give it a go tonight and see what happens, Thanks.

Danblez

276 posts

210 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
Good luck!

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
barnsweeper said:
Thanks for that i may give that one a go, however thinking about your earlier suggestion re rotating the manifold if i mget in with a hacksaw blade and cut off the head of the partially removed bolt then unscrew it the rest of the way by hand i may be able to rotate the manifold, at worst it will mean a new gasket, things are looking up from at a loss to two options to try, Thanks everybody. Jim.
Good luck mate, keep us updated. thumbup

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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Thanks, jim.

DarkMatter

1,473 posts

230 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
Could more working space be gained by disconnecting one or both engine mounts and raising/twisting the engine a little, having supported the engine first of course?

OleVix

1,438 posts

147 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
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I took out my engine with both manifolds on before doing the body lift, not too bad!

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

106 months

Thursday 4th June 2015
quotequote all
DarkMatter said:
Could more working space be gained by disconnecting one or both engine mounts and raising/twisting the engine a little, having supported the engine first of course?
Its the actual manifold thats in the way, but thanks for the suggestion.