Mastercylinder question...

Mastercylinder question...

Author
Discussion

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Hey Guys

I installed the pedals and master-cylinders today. My concerns are:

1) The clutch pedal is only screwed in 3 turns onto the MC pushrod - and pedal is already vertical. Is this ok or should I screw it in a bit more?
2) The brake is screwed in all the way on both front/rear MC. It is still NOT vertical, but inclined forward about 45degrees. Also, on full brake application, it hits the rear chassis bar behind it.

The MC are the new 'Evo' types...

Thanks

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Another pic... can't add more than 1 in one post

barriejames

895 posts

179 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Have you checked out
http://www.ultima-gtr.info/index.htm Think the build cd is pretty OK for this part also

This will provide the answers you need, I like the pedal covers BTW Also check you have the pedals in the correct mounting holes as this will I think dictate your positions/angles for your clutch and brake pedals

Edited by barriejames on Sunday 28th June 12:08

Storer

5,024 posts

215 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Mine has the lower pivot of each pedal as below.

Clutch - middle hole
Brake - rear hole
Throttle - front hole

Rear = closest to the bulkhead

The adjustable pedal ends are both similar with about 1/2" of thread on the driver side of upright.

All pedals are roughly level across their faces and angled towards the driver by about 7 degrees.

Hope that helps.

Paul

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
I have taken the pedal positions from CJ's site: throttle and clutch closest to driver, brake all the way back (near bulkhead). However with the new MC, there may be a difference in pushrod size, which is why the pedal hits the rear chassis frame...

I will experiment based on other suggestions and report back.. thanks

barriejames

895 posts

179 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Hi Looking at your MC's, these appear the same as previous as I do not think the Evo ones are available as yet? Thus I think they should be the same??

ezakimak

1,871 posts

236 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
what hits the frame?
is it one of the threaded sections that could be shortened?

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
The pedal frame hits the chassis bar about 2/3 the way up... see arrow in the picture

UltimaFAN

107 posts

129 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
huzilulu said:
The pedal frame hits the chassis bar about 2/3 the way up... see arrow in the picture
As stated above, wrong hole, it is not the rear one on the picture.
The rear hole might be the solution, as it is the one used on our cars!

Steve_D

13,737 posts

258 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
The build manual I have (2011) itself has a degree of confusion as it has a photo showing throttle in hole 1 (nearest driver) Clutch hole 2 brake hole 3.
It then has a 'click for diagram' which shows Throttle hole 1 ,brake hole 1 and clutch hole 2.

From the OPs picture it would seem to need hole 3.

Steve

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
I had it originally in the rear most, but it did the same thing... I moved it forward to see if it made any difference... The pic in the first post shows the pedal in the rear most position.

GTRS

290 posts

223 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
I have the same pedal setup so will check this evening if I have the same issue. What do the factory recommend?

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
Factory recommend brake in rear most position with pedal angled forward about 10 degrees...

Corsair613

260 posts

122 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
I've also noticed that the brake pedal upright easily contacts the chassis, but have been proceeding under the assumption (soon to be tested) that this won't happen once the system has been bled. In other words, with pressure in the lines, the pedal won't be able to move that far forward despite heavy braking.

Ken

GTRS

290 posts

223 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
Corsair613 said:
I've also noticed that the brake pedal upright easily contacts the chassis, but have been proceeding under the assumption (soon to be tested) that this won't happen once the system has been bled. In other words, with pressure in the lines, the pedal won't be able to move that far forward despite heavy braking.

Ken
I think I came to the same conclusion when I installed mine.

huzilulu

Original Poster:

127 posts

112 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
Ok great... onwards then...

And Ken - since you are ahead of me, do let me know when you bleed the brakes and to how it affects the movement of the pedal.

Graham-P

1,548 posts

246 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
I think you will find that when you have bled the brakes the pedal will move less an 1/4", some people feel this is "wooden" and hard work when they come from servo assistance, I quite like it though.

jagracer

8,248 posts

236 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
As Graham said, you'll get virtually no movement on the pedal, if you want a lighter feel, you'll get more travel, then fit smaller master cylinders.
This is a good guide to setting up balance bar braking. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/article_info.php?arti...

Corsair613

260 posts

122 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
huzilulu said:
Ok great... onwards then...

And Ken - since you are ahead of me, do let me know when you bleed the brakes and to how it affects the movement of the pedal.
Will do. As others have said, there should be very little pedal movement once the system has been properly bled. "Wooden" sounds about right to me for this car, though I'd characterize the feel more as "race brakes". There isn't a lot of pedal movement in the Formula cars I've driven nor should there be. For that matter, I'm expecting the clutch to be much more race-like than street car-like - also fine with me in this context.

Ken