Dash Install Difficulty

[huzilulu]

Hey Guys

I am just starting to work on my dash now... I figured the best way to tackle this was to first place the dash center section on the car and mark the steering wheel hole from inside (as well as check the clearance for the AC, wiper motor, etc).. however, I am unable to get the dash to fit correctly... As you can see from the pics, the center section will not move forward enough to go over the front bulkhead in the mastercylinder area... It seems that it is not going because the dash chassis rail is blocking the forward movement of the dash section (seen in last pic)... I believe that the chassis rail should be wrapped around by the lower dash section, but cannot get it to go correctly... are there any tips to doing this so I don't damage the GRP? I have already chipped a bit from the holes that are where the center sections bolts to the side pods (the holes have enlarged due to trying to move the dash around, and there are small GRP pieces by the bolts)...

Thanks

[huzilulu]

More pics...

[huzilulu]

Additional Pics...

[anonymous-user]

huzilulu said:

While that brake line isn't bolted down, please stick something insulating over the top of the battery terminals! I'd hate for it to all go up in smoke!

[UltimaCH]

Max_Torque said:

While that brake line isn't bolted down, please stick something insulating over the top of the battery terminals! I'd hate for it to all go up in smoke!

+1
Put the rubber protection plugs that came with the battery. That should reduce the risk of a short and consequences

[UltimaCH]

huzilulu said:

Additional Pics...

I assume you went for the factory body fit option. Are you sure no cables passing on the outside of the chassis tube? You may need to fettle the bodywork around the HEVAC control panel under the dash. That panel does go for an extra layer the glass fibre has to go over.

[huzilulu]

Yes, the battery terminals are usually covered... I had actually put the battery on a trickle charge after getting the car back yesterday, and just removed the alligator clips in order to put the dash on... but ur right!

I have not installed the HVAC under dash tray as my controls will be on the face of the dash... I think it's just a tight fit over the chassis rail and I have not been putting enough into it to make it go under... will try again and report back tomorrow!

[Steve_D]

Have you been trying to fit the scuttle with the steering shaft in?
If so that may be your problem preventing the dash from cliping round the bottom rail.

steve

[pilbeam_mp62]

I don't think the dash will clip round the bottom rail with all that stuff tie-wrapped to it... I think the tie-wraps are in the way

Edited by pilbeam_mp62 on Monday 31st August 19:15

[mt308]

pilbeam_mp62 said:

I don't think the dash will clip round the bottom rail with all that stuff tie-wrapped to it... I think the tie-wraps are in the way

Edited by pilbeam_mp62 on Monday 31st August 19:15

Agree. You won't get the front to clear the bulkhead until you get the dash lower lip to wrap around the chassis rail which has the tie-wraps on it. I remember it taking some doing in my build. I used 3-4 rivets to hold into place once in (rivets through the lower lip of the dash into the chassis rail pointing straight upwards - so you can only see them if you have your head in the footwell looking up). Obviously once you do that the centre section is permanently on.

Mark

[Steve_D]

mt308 said:

.....I used 3-4 rivets to hold into place once in (rivets through the lower lip of the dash into the chassis rail pointing straight upwards.....
Mark

mine is so tight I didn't need anything to secure it.

Steve

[mt308]

Now I come to think of it I seem to recall that I had to trim off the leather that I had wrapped around the underside of the dashboard. That added 2-3mm which was enough to stop it folding over the chassis rail.

The rivets I think also help the dashboard to be slightly more vertical than was otherwise the case. They probably don't make a huge difference but I think the factory suggested putting them in.

I think you may also possibly have an issue with the steering column hole being a bit too low when it does snap into place - advise you try it with the steering column removed then recheck - appreciate this will be a bit of a pain.

Mark

Edited by mt308 on Monday 31st August 20:28

[pilbeam_mp62]

Steve_D said:

mt308 said:

.....I used 3-4 rivets to hold into place once in (rivets through the lower lip of the dash into the chassis rail pointing straight upwards.....
Mark

mine is so tight I didn't need anything to secure it.

Steve

+1
But Steve and my car were GTR's..... and from the look of the pictures, the Canam design is slightly different - not so much curvature...

[Storer]

Am I not right in thinking that the lip on the front of the dash section goes on the outside of the front panel that the master cylinders attach to? (I am 90 miles from my car).

The front of the dash needs lifting over the chassis box section and then pushing forward with the back tucked under the dash chassis rail.

You then rivet the GF and ally panel to the chassis rail above the master cylinders.

Paul

[Abbosevolution]

Well spotted Paul - agree - although mines a GTR the install was a pain and very tight