chassis through the cheapo-scope
Discussion
Cheapo USB endoscope bought from eBay for less than a tenner, hooked up to laptop. Used to inspect the tops of the main outrigger rails for rot on my Chim. Flaking powdercoat seen but no holes found. The scope will take snapshots as well as video. Found the missing kettle lid too (behind the cooker, not under my car!)
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|http://thumbsnap.com/fny6SWqD[/url]
[url]|http://thumbsnap.com/fny6SWqD[/url]
Just go to eBay and search for "USB endoscope". There's a multitude of them. Take your pick. The one I bought is 5m long (2m would have been fine) and camera diameter is 10mm at it's widest point. 720mp resolution allegedly. I'm able to get this alongside then up and over the outrigger rails. There are also scopes that are 7mm and 5.5mm at the tip. These may be easier to get into tight spaces. They have a fixed focal length and you can't steer them unlike the ones I use at work, but then again what do you expect for around ten quid. I cleaned as much crud out as i could from above the rails before having a look. Frightening how much collects up there.
NTEL said:
I looked at 12 or so cars before getting my new 450 this week. I inspected all of them with my endoscope. A staggering 6 out of the 12 had holes in the chassis 
The "best" chassis I seen were on pre 95 cars.
I thought the later Chims had the better factory chassis protection. Just goes to show. Never heard of anyone endoscoping TVRs before buying. Did you get any funny looks? The "best" chassis I seen were on pre 95 cars.GasDoc said:
I thought the later Chims had the better factory chassis protection. Just goes to show. Never heard of anyone endoscoping TVRs before buying. Did you get any funny looks?
No its generally known that the later white coloured chassis were inferior to the earlier silver coloured ones.The late ones have the flakey powder-coat, like mine ('98) prior to the full body-off job. Early ones (before TVR brought the powder coating in house) were better quality and seem to fair better.
You need to check the corners, where the triangular plates meet the tubulars. It's this joint (on top) which is the nemesis. Don't want to be Job's comforter but mine looked fine until the grit blasting. Pesky tin-worm lay beneath!
You need to check the corners, where the triangular plates meet the tubulars. It's this joint (on top) which is the nemesis. Don't want to be Job's comforter but mine looked fine until the grit blasting. Pesky tin-worm lay beneath!
rigga said:
GasDoc said:
I thought the later Chims had the better factory chassis protection. Just goes to show. Never heard of anyone endoscoping TVRs before buying. Did you get any funny looks?
No its generally known that the later white coloured chassis were inferior to the earlier silver coloured ones.
I do not wish to be the prophet of doom, but it is not just the outriggers that can be the problem.
I have found some interesting photos of my chassis, and as you can see most of the outrigger was intact, there was even plenty of undamaged powder coat still visible. There was some rot in each corner, but the worst problem is all the welds.
I dont think TVR made any attempt to clean the weld points. Take a close look at the photo of the rear of the chassis and every weld is rusting.
This kind of corrosion can happen from under any powdercoat, waxoyl, or whatever. It did not happen because the powder coat broke down, it happened because none of the welds were cleaned, or bead blasted.
I applaud any owners who clean any of the chassis with the body in situ,[i did just this on my first TVR an S3 ] but at some time in the future, a body lift is inevitable to repair, blast and paint the chassis.
I did say paint but that is another opinion i will defend to the hilt.
I have found some interesting photos of my chassis, and as you can see most of the outrigger was intact, there was even plenty of undamaged powder coat still visible. There was some rot in each corner, but the worst problem is all the welds.
I dont think TVR made any attempt to clean the weld points. Take a close look at the photo of the rear of the chassis and every weld is rusting.
This kind of corrosion can happen from under any powdercoat, waxoyl, or whatever. It did not happen because the powder coat broke down, it happened because none of the welds were cleaned, or bead blasted.
I applaud any owners who clean any of the chassis with the body in situ,[i did just this on my first TVR an S3 ] but at some time in the future, a body lift is inevitable to repair, blast and paint the chassis.
I did say paint but that is another opinion i will defend to the hilt.
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