HELP!!!!!! sump problem
Discussion
i have gone to put new engine in tonight but the sump is hitting cross member even though i told engine builder not to go any deeper than std sump,has anybody got any ideas?? can i cut out cross member and refit lower down does anybody know what depth the sump should be ? have waited 3 mounths for this engine am about ready to jump off a tall building 
Simon,
The factory can make up some brackets to lift engine or spacer washers between top of engine mounts.
How much do you need to raise it?
I had similar problem. Rather than wait for extra brackets I took bold step of welding a 10mm thick bar to underside of existing and then cutting it out!
Bit drastic, but it did the trick.
Gary
The factory can make up some brackets to lift engine or spacer washers between top of engine mounts.
How much do you need to raise it?
I had similar problem. Rather than wait for extra brackets I took bold step of welding a 10mm thick bar to underside of existing and then cutting it out!
Bit drastic, but it did the trick.
Gary
Simon,
As you now I have an AS supplied engine fitted with a Canton (I think) sump that measures 19.2cm from the face of the block to the bottom of the sump, this includes the gasket and sealant. This gives me a clearance of approx 3mm, which does not sound a lot but is more than enough considering the block hardly moves on the heavy duty engine mounts. One thing I did have to do though is insert two 1.5mm washers between the block and the engine mounts (on each of the three bolts), this was necessary to get the chassis rail clearance and get the gearbox to align on its mounts. Modifying the chassis IMO and in that area seems a little drastic, surely the sump is still the key. I believe you had you sump custom made, would it not be possible for a small mod to clear the chassis rail. It does not have to affect the overall base of the sump just put a step in around the rail. Or resort to spending a bit on an off-the-self sump, in reality these are not that expensive, speak to Ultima about the AS standard sump or see Summit Racing, they do some from the $73 mark.
Cheers
Phil.
As you now I have an AS supplied engine fitted with a Canton (I think) sump that measures 19.2cm from the face of the block to the bottom of the sump, this includes the gasket and sealant. This gives me a clearance of approx 3mm, which does not sound a lot but is more than enough considering the block hardly moves on the heavy duty engine mounts. One thing I did have to do though is insert two 1.5mm washers between the block and the engine mounts (on each of the three bolts), this was necessary to get the chassis rail clearance and get the gearbox to align on its mounts. Modifying the chassis IMO and in that area seems a little drastic, surely the sump is still the key. I believe you had you sump custom made, would it not be possible for a small mod to clear the chassis rail. It does not have to affect the overall base of the sump just put a step in around the rail. Or resort to spending a bit on an off-the-self sump, in reality these are not that expensive, speak to Ultima about the AS standard sump or see Summit Racing, they do some from the $73 mark.
Cheers
Phil.
thanks for all the advice guys , Stig , engine builder has agreed to change sump but is very concerned about oil starvation during high g turns he has only made sump 15mm deeper, the problem is there was signs oil problems when he stripped down old engine and i have seen the large amount of work that has gone into this new sump he comes very very highly recommended so am a bit reluctant to change sump. i also have a drivers side dipstick which seems to be quite rare and canton do not list a sump for my block .will look at it at the weekened to see if i can spot a way out!
>> Edited by tuxman on Thursday 24th February 19:20
>> Edited by tuxman on Thursday 24th February 19:20
tuxman said:
thanks for all the advice guys , Stig , engine builder has agreed to change sump but is very concerned about oil starvation during high g turns he has only made sump 15mm deeper, the problem is there was signs oil problems when he stripped down old engine and i have seen the large amount of work that has gone into this new sump he comes very very highly recommended so am a bit reluctant to change sump. i also have a drivers side dipstick which seems to be quite rare and canton do not list a sump for my block .will look at it at the weekened to see if i can spot a way out!
>> Edited by tuxman on Thursday 24th February 19:20
Ah, does that mean you don't have an accusump fitted? That shuold sort the oil slop starvation problems (but from what you've said, the builder will probably have baffled the sump to avoid this).
That said, you shouldn't really experience oil starvation on the road.... unless you have cojones like melons
It's a problem that's come up before though, so I hope you can find a solution without too much trouble.
Hi Stig ,you are right i never had acusump fitted on last years engine and i think some spirited driving !!!! could have caused the problem ,new sump and block mods should sort problem now .i think i am going to modify chasis and build in a sump guard at the same time it does seem to be a bit of a problem when you see something lying in the road !!sump too 20 hours of work to construct i would hate to see a dent in it !!. wife ashores me cojones are the same size
>> Edited by tuxman on Friday 25th February 19:29
could have caused the problem ,new sump and block mods should sort problem now .i think i am going to modify chasis and build in a sump guard at the same time it does seem to be a bit of a problem when you see something lying in the road !!sump too 20 hours of work to construct i would hate to see a dent in it !!. wife ashores me cojones are the same size >> Edited by tuxman on Friday 25th February 19:29
tuxman said:
hi Andy , will be looking into acusump on monday have been checking prices ultima seem to be very exspensive compared to everyone else trying to work out why ?
Have you included the price of the pretty blue and red pipe fittings? I could understand it if they were gold plated.
You get a lot of fittings and custom brackets in the factory kit.
I found I could beat the factory price from Think or BGC but not by enough to go through the hasle.
If you have a cheaper supplier then that may make a difference.
Steve
if you are happy to make the pipes etc yourself then it can be done much cheaper especially if you source the accusump from the states and do it in conjunction with the oil cooler.
But you get all the brackets and pipes ready made and just bolt on in the factory kit, so it's not bad value for what you get.
But you get all the brackets and pipes ready made and just bolt on in the factory kit, so it's not bad value for what you get.
Hi Tuxman.
It sounds like you had an engine re-build. I too had oil problems resulting in the need for a rebuild at 15,000 miles although I had the accusump. Mine was due to the dipstick being wrongly marked so I was using too little oil. I was interested in your comment about the engine builder finding evidence of oil problems when he stripped the old engine. Who re-built your engine?
It sounds like you had an engine re-build. I too had oil problems resulting in the need for a rebuild at 15,000 miles although I had the accusump. Mine was due to the dipstick being wrongly marked so I was using too little oil. I was interested in your comment about the engine builder finding evidence of oil problems when he stripped the old engine. Who re-built your engine?
hi ultiman,i used a guy who was recommended to me on 3 different occasions,his name is Tom Newman of Tom newman American auto,s he is based in west mersea.he is very good and i got on with him very well,the quality of my new engine is superb and i only hope it goes as well as it looks.should be ready for start up this weekened but i am a bit nervous!!!!!!!!
>> Edited by tuxman on Thursday 3rd March 12:57
>> Edited by tuxman on Thursday 3rd March 12:57
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