Spare Crankshaft Spigot Bearing for Speed6 AJP8?
Discussion
Burton Power had the 21mm x 15mm bearing in stock - part no FP347.
However I have now hit a more intractable problem, all that remains of the old bearing which had imploded is the outer shell, which seems to have welded itself the the crank.
My bearing puller has broken trying to extract it, and trying to peen over the outer edge has proved impossible.
However I have now hit a more intractable problem, all that remains of the old bearing which had imploded is the outer shell, which seems to have welded itself the the crank.
My bearing puller has broken trying to extract it, and trying to peen over the outer edge has proved impossible.
I've used a blob of mig weld in the past to remove stubborn bearing cases, the rapid heating and cooling usually fractures the metal.
Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.
Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.
alspeed said:
I've used a blob of mig weld in the past to remove stubborn bearing cases, the rapid heating and cooling usually fractures the metal.
Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.
As alspeed suggests apply some controlled heat to the bearing, using a number 1 nozzle (smallest nozzle) with Oxy Acetelyne gentley heat bearing casing. Might be a bit awkward in your case though. If you do go down that route it might be worth tacking a length of rod inside and then if the case stays intact, you still have the option of pulling it out with the rod.
portzi said:
As alspeed suggests apply some controlled heat to the bearing, using a number 1 nozzle (smallest nozzle) with Oxy Acetelyne gentley heat bearing casing.
Thanks both. But as I have no experience with MIG or Oxy I think that would be too steep a learning curve (basically too dangerous) for me to try.I could perhaps try a MAPP Torch, something like the Rothenberger Super Fire from ScrewFix, but that's another £85 I'd need to invest. Would that be worth trying in conjunction with some Wurth Frost Off to quench it?
From what I can tell it will not be possible to pull the race out from behind. That is because there seems to be a ridge in the crank behind the race to prevent it from being pushed in too far. When a puller is used on an imploded bearing it simply removes the edge of the shell, leaving almost a smooth surface where the shell meets the ridge. Unfortunately that means the mep12345 tool from the other thread won't work.
So I think it has to be ground or slit, or removed using a welding technique (which is outside my skill set).
Grinding and slitting will inevitably cause some damage to the crank, but as long as that does not affect the new spigot bearing that may not matter too much.
Right now I'd happily pay someone to come over and make this issue go away - Happily. So if anyone has a proven technique to solve this and wants to earn some money, real money not just beer tokens, let me know. I'm based near the Ace Cafe in West London.
So I think it has to be ground or slit, or removed using a welding technique (which is outside my skill set).
Grinding and slitting will inevitably cause some damage to the crank, but as long as that does not affect the new spigot bearing that may not matter too much.
Right now I'd happily pay someone to come over and make this issue go away - Happily. So if anyone has a proven technique to solve this and wants to earn some money, real money not just beer tokens, let me know. I'm based near the Ace Cafe in West London.
phillpot said:
It doesn't necessarily have to get behind, the Rawlbolt will expand and grip the remaining shell. the shell is hardened and can't expand, it'll work.....trust me
The friction between the Rawlbolt and the shell would have to be greater than between the shell and the crank, despite the much lower surface area and the 18 years of corrosion, so it seems very unlikely to me that it would work.However, I am so desperate now that I will try anything, especially if you have your extractor available for loan. Please let me know.
ukkid35 said:
The friction between the Rawlbolt and the shell would have to be greater than between the shell and the crank, despite the much lower surface area and the 18 years of corrosion, so it seems very unlikely to me that it would work.
A lot less contact area between Rawlbolt and bearing so greater pressure. I doubt the bearing is "that" tight, just awkward to get hold of?ukkid35 said:
However, I am so desperate now that I will try anything, especially if you have your extractor available for loan. Please let me know.
Happy to lend it out, all I ask is you cover all postage costs. Can be in the post tomorrow if you let me have your address?ukkid35 said:
Jonbouy said:
Just run a seam of mig weld around the inside of the bearing race, it will pop straight out. I've done this a lot with she'll bearings.
Thanks, another vote for MIG, but is that really something I could do with no previous experience?The outer race of these bearings is very thin so even a very experienced welder would have difficulty doing this without welding the bearing to the crank......which would not be good.
Steve
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