starter motor dying.
Discussion
Think its on its way out.
The starter is very sluggish when trying to start the car and only just manages to start the engine. Other times theres nothing when the button is pressed. There isnt the usual whiring noise sometimes associated with starters going.
I'm assuming its the starter motor. Cant check past threads. Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
The starter is very sluggish when trying to start the car and only just manages to start the engine. Other times theres nothing when the button is pressed. There isnt the usual whiring noise sometimes associated with starters going.
I'm assuming its the starter motor. Cant check past threads. Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
kojak said:
The starter is very sluggish when trying to start the car and only just manages to start the engine. Other times theres nothing when the button is pressed. There isnt the usual whiring noise sometimes associated with starters going.
I'm assuming its the starter motor. Cant check past threads. Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
When mine finally went (and the time it gave up in France) there wasn't any whirring, just a click. So it sounds like that's the problem.I'm assuming its the starter motor. Cant check past threads. Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
Ours did the same, and the day it gave up for good............the day it was due to go to the garage 
So it went on a low loader.
We've had ours reconned 3 times in 12 months, its due back in the car today, and its thanks to TTP that we're still on the road due to him lending us a starter motor, otherwise it would have been off the road for the last 4 weeks.
Its been to a different place for its recon this time, so hopefully it will last longer if not
So it went on a low loader. We've had ours reconned 3 times in 12 months, its due back in the car today, and its thanks to TTP that we're still on the road due to him lending us a starter motor, otherwise it would have been off the road for the last 4 weeks.
Its been to a different place for its recon this time, so hopefully it will last longer if not
kojak said:
Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
That would have to be a pretty "trick" trickle charger (pun not intended)
To test the battery ampage (not voltage)you need to put it under a load.
We've got the "ACT" tester at work that works out ambient temperature, voltage & most importantly ampage.
Most battery chargers I've seen, just tell you when the battery cells have had enough charge, if the cells are knackered, it'll tell you it's fully charged when it's only got an Amp in, as opposed to the 70 odd you'll need (without going in to cranking capacities)
Unless it's a super duper charger, get the battery professionally tested first.
If all's ok & you've got the original "Tilton" starter, I recommend getting that refurbed to a high standard rather than buying a new one.
EDA
If it helps, my last battery lasted almost three years.
Edited by RUSSELLM on Tuesday 19th September 15:11
Something I'd reccommend is replacing the big red lead from the battery to the starter, it gets pretty hot under there and carries a lot of current, when I changed mine it went from turning over lazily to spinning up like a motorbike.
All for about 5 quid if you make the lead yourself
Matt
All for about 5 quid if you make the lead yourself
Matt
350matt said:
Something I'd reccommend is replacing the big red lead from the battery to the starter, it gets pretty hot under there and carries a lot of current, when I changed mine it went from turning over lazily to spinning up like a motorbike.
All for about 5 quid if you make the lead yourself
Matt
All for about 5 quid if you make the lead yourself
Matt
Hi Matt.
Never had any problems with starting, only today. Always fired up ok.
RUSSELLM said:
kojak said:
Battery on trickle charger, and shows all ok. What does everyone think.
That would have to be a pretty "trick" trickle charger (pun not intended)
To test the battery ampage (not voltage)you need to put it under a load.
We've got the "ACT" tester at work that works out ambient temperature, voltage & most importantly ampage.
Most battery chargers I've seen, just tell you when the battery cells have had enough charge, if the cells are knackered, it'll tell you it's fully charged when it's only got an Amp in, as opposed to the 70 odd you'll need (without going in to cranking capacities)
Unless it's a super duper charger, get the battery professionally tested first.
If all's ok & you've got the original "Tilton" starter, I recommend getting that refurbed to a high standard rather than buying a new one.
EDA
If it helps, my last battery lasted almost three years.
Edited by RUSSELLM on Tuesday 19th September 15:11
The battery has been in the car for nearly 4 years since i've been the owner. Not sure whether its the original, or if it was changed previous to me buying. Always thought because it showed 'charged' with the acumate, I assumed it was ok. Will look into it.
At a minimum of four years old, with the way the Cerb alarm kills them, my money's firmly on the battery or at least the cranking capacity side of it.
Some battery chargers will have a fault light, but half the time it's just indicating that the pos or neg terminal isn't connected.
As I said, I haven't seen a charger yet, that can do an ampage test. Even a knackered battery will give you an output of 12 volts, the important thing is will it give you 12 volts when trying to momentarily drag 700 amps out of it
.
Good luck MR K.
Some battery chargers will have a fault light, but half the time it's just indicating that the pos or neg terminal isn't connected.
As I said, I haven't seen a charger yet, that can do an ampage test. Even a knackered battery will give you an output of 12 volts, the important thing is will it give you 12 volts when trying to momentarily drag 700 amps out of it
. Good luck MR K.
Julian64 said:
gazzab said:
Battery needs changing regardless if 4 yrs old.
cobblers
OK you caught me out. Try re-heeling your shoes instead.
The batteries on cerbs go on forever and people rarely have to change them.
In the situation where you have problems starting your car and the battery is 4 yrs old etc then clearly you should keep your battery as the problem is obviously not related to a battery and you should re-heel your shoes instead.
gazzab said:
Julian64 said:
gazzab said:
Battery needs changing regardless if 4 yrs old.
cobblers
OK you caught me out. Try re-heeling your shoes instead.
The batteries on cerbs go on forever and people rarely have to change them.
In the situation where you have problems starting your car and the battery is 4 yrs old etc then clearly you should keep your battery as the problem is obviously not related to a battery and you should re-heel your shoes instead.
. My battery been running fine for six years. But why change a battery at four years if its running okay. Keep it topped up with distilled, keep it trickle charged and never never let it stay flat for more than a few hours and you will minimize sulphation. During the war people used to have batteries last for almost ever because they would dissassemble the electrodes scrape them off, put some new sulphuric in and presto. You couldn't just walk down to the halford's.
Oh, and you could get a good hearty meal, pasty and chips, followed by cinema, and a good woman to stay all night and still have change for a old penny.
Halfords 072 is what I have in mine, best thing is it cost me nothing as the previous owner had bought it two years ago and I still had the receipt in with the cars History, all of their batteries are guaranteed for 3 or 4 years, so I just popped over to my nearest Halfords with the battery and receipt and they just gave me a new one FOC..........
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Cyclone1 said:
Halfords 072 is what I have in mine, best thing is it cost me nothing as the previous owner had bought it two years ago and I still had the receipt in with the cars History, all of their batteries are guaranteed for 3 or 4 years, so I just popped over to my nearest Halfords with the battery and receipt and they just gave me a new one FOC..........
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Take the battery holder (bit of rusty metal with lips) out and wack two bits of velcro on the bottom of the battery and two oposite halves of velcro on the chassis/fibreglass covering the chassis. You can then fit most types of appropriate battery...
Don't forget to seal the holes though, or your ECU will not be happy.
Cheers
MB
marcus1970 said:
Cyclone1 said:
Halfords 072 is what I have in mine, best thing is it cost me nothing as the previous owner had bought it two years ago and I still had the receipt in with the cars History, all of their batteries are guaranteed for 3 or 4 years, so I just popped over to my nearest Halfords with the battery and receipt and they just gave me a new one FOC..........
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Jules.
ps. despite all of the threads about how difficult it is to fit a battery, mine went in in less than 20 mins from start to finish.
Take the battery holder (bit of rusty metal with lips) out and wack two bits of velcro on the bottom of the battery and two oposite halves of velcro on the chassis/fibreglass covering the chassis. You can then fit most types of appropriate battery...
....and be prepared for said battery to become a missile in any form of accident.
Velcro is good for some things, holding a sodding great weight like a battery securely is not one of them. I was rear ended 2 years ago at relatively low speed. Everything that wasn't nailed down flew backwards at speed. Ashtrays, stereo face plate (hit me in the face), cupholders (it wasn't a TVR). Can't imagine the carnage if the battery had been held down with velco.
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