Jamed Ignition Barrel - Zafira Astra
Discussion
Need some help with the steering lock and ignition barrel?
It should be common to the Holden/Vaxhell/Opel range of small cars, this one is in a Zafira but I know it’s the same in an Astra as well.
The steering wheel is now in the locked position, key barrel is jammed in position “0” and I can’t rotate it with the key. I have tried some graphite as well as some CRC contact cleaner neither have freed it up.
I have also tried tapping with a mallet to try and get the tumblers freed up as well, that hasn’t helped
I was following these instructions from complaints.motorsm.com but can’t get past step 5
HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000
TITLE: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST!
ISSUE: IGNITION *ADVICE*
POST: "I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem.
Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny.
Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through.
Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1).
Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you.
Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy.
Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column.
Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel)
Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp.
Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!)
Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again.
Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out.
Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK.
Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trail and error will find it!
Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc.
Saved around $140 in parts.
Good luck "
POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3/12/2007
It should be common to the Holden/Vaxhell/Opel range of small cars, this one is in a Zafira but I know it’s the same in an Astra as well.
The steering wheel is now in the locked position, key barrel is jammed in position “0” and I can’t rotate it with the key. I have tried some graphite as well as some CRC contact cleaner neither have freed it up.
I have also tried tapping with a mallet to try and get the tumblers freed up as well, that hasn’t helped
I was following these instructions from complaints.motorsm.com but can’t get past step 5
HOLDEN ASTRA TS 2000
TITLE: ASTRA IGNITION BARREL FIXED ... NO COST!
ISSUE: IGNITION *ADVICE*
POST: "I have a TS 2000 Astra and the key kept getting jammed. It won’t turn. It happened about two years ago and cost $300 from memory. I have searched /googled every site in the world or so it seems on this problem. Seems there are Many Astra owners with this problem.
Today - fixed it ... and it didn’t cost a penny.
Step 1. Pop off the front top cover immediately behind the steering wheel. The one which the indicator and wipers stalks go through.
Step 2. Get a star (like an allen key) key and undo one screw from underneath, and two on the top sides (Revealed after step 1).
Step 3. Depress the latch on the side of the wiper stalk assy and slide out the whole assy from the slot, towards you.
Step 4. Get a small nail or very small screw driver and poke it into the small hole revealed by removing the wiper assy.
Step 5. Put your key into the gin and while holding the nail in the small hole (pressing inwards) pull the whole barrel assy out. Easy! (There's a small spring loaded 'catch' on the barrel which locks it inside the steering column.
Step 6. Look at the opp end of the barrel to the key and see a small pin which rotates when the key is turned. The last position of this pin, when you remove the key from the barrel is where the problem lies. There's a small 'ramp' inside the barrel which you can see. It will be burred and pitted from use. (and a 'sharp' end on the pin. Steel pin and soft metal barrel)
Step 7. Use a small file to smooth the metal ramp.
Step 8. Rotate the key all the way "on". Depress the Pin in slightly (against a spring) so you can rotate the barrel to the end and the pin will pop out. (Don’t Lose It, or the small spring inside the hole the pin came out of!)
Step 9. File the fat end of the pin to look rounded, not flat. This makes it easier to ride up the ramp and prevent damaging the *hit metal ramp again.
Step 10 Reinstall the pin and rotate the key so the pin can’t fly out.
Step 11. Put a small amt of grease on the pin and work with the key backwards and forwards to ensure it is working OK.
Step 12. Hold the spring catch (Step 5) down with a small screwdriver and reinsert the barrel. It can only go back in One Way! Trail and error will find it!
Step 13. Reverse assemble the stalks, covers etc.
Saved around $140 in parts.
Good luck "
POSTED BY: ROB ADAMS - SYDNEY, NSW, AUS 3/12/2007
The last pin in the set, you say... sounds like a candidate for 'bumping'... have you tried getting the key in, applying a little bit of torsional pressure (as if you were trying to turn the key, but not forcing), and then giving several small taps to the big end of the key with a rubber mallet or some other plastic clouting tool?
It's a trick (with a blank key) you can use to get into most normal house front door locks (Yale, etc.) so I haven't been that explicit here - but you're already there with the correct key. All you need is a bit of bounce to move that final pin - the technique may work for this.
It's a trick (with a blank key) you can use to get into most normal house front door locks (Yale, etc.) so I haven't been that explicit here - but you're already there with the correct key. All you need is a bit of bounce to move that final pin - the technique may work for this.
I had a problem with my Astra where the key wouldn't turn and the steering lock was on. I'd only had the car a month and was down in Weymouth with a couple of mates for the weekend, we were cacking it as I had no AA, we were 130 miles from home and all the garages had closed up for the night.
Luckily we rang a mate at home whose dad is a mechanic/motortrader who passed on a tip which worked. Basically pull the steering wheel to the right very hard against the lock and keep it held in that position. Then ease the key out of the slot (assuming it's in there already)by a tiny fraction perhaps 06.mm and then try turning it. Try this a couple of times, the ignition barrells will be the same for the cars.
After this I tried to not lock in the steering lock when I got in/out. When we were there I managed to lock it again, but had to use the same technique to unlock it. It was a bit stiff for a month or so but now seems totally fine, pretty strange as I haven't lubricated it or anything.
Luckily we rang a mate at home whose dad is a mechanic/motortrader who passed on a tip which worked. Basically pull the steering wheel to the right very hard against the lock and keep it held in that position. Then ease the key out of the slot (assuming it's in there already)by a tiny fraction perhaps 06.mm and then try turning it. Try this a couple of times, the ignition barrells will be the same for the cars.
After this I tried to not lock in the steering lock when I got in/out. When we were there I managed to lock it again, but had to use the same technique to unlock it. It was a bit stiff for a month or so but now seems totally fine, pretty strange as I haven't lubricated it or anything.
cyberface said:
The last pin in the set, you say... sounds like a candidate for 'bumping'... have you tried getting the key in, applying a little bit of torsional pressure (as if you were trying to turn the key, but not forcing), and then giving several small taps to the big end of the key with a rubber mallet or some other plastic clouting tool?
It's a trick (with a blank key) you can use to get into most normal house front door locks (Yale, etc.) so I haven't been that explicit here - but you're already there with the correct key. All you need is a bit of bounce to move that final pin - the technique may work for this.
Yes I have tried that, still doesn’t seem to be moving. It's a trick (with a blank key) you can use to get into most normal house front door locks (Yale, etc.) so I haven't been that explicit here - but you're already there with the correct key. All you need is a bit of bounce to move that final pin - the technique may work for this.
I should also mention that the steering wheel was not locked initially when the key jammed – but has subsequently locked when I tried to roll the car back into the drive and straighten the wheels.
NOTE ambient temperature was 35°C++ yesterday arvo, car was in direct sunlight, and now I have this problem.
The hole that the instructions talk about is in this photo on top of the barrel, you can see some of the residue from the CRC around the outside.
I think there may be another hole underneath the barrel – but I can’t see it because the “security transponder reader” circuit board is in the way and I haven worked out how to remove it yet.
I haven’t tried to remove the contacts from the other end of the switch yet either – they appear to clip of, just not sure what direction to take in disassembly. These plastic things normally break fairly easy when forced, so was hopping to get some instructions. Any other ideas on forums where I should post this info would be helpful as well.
Regards Ryan
Well I finally got it out.
Decided that the contact cleaner that I was using was not thick enough and grabbed some WD40, sprayed it inside the lock and also down into the barrel release hole. Then I was able with a bit of giggling, bumping and holding my tong in the right place able to rotate the lock to the I – II and start positions. Once I rotated it to II the barrel release button could be pushed in with my 2.5mm Allen key, and the barrel slid out. Now I can see what the problem is.
I bit of filling, wet-n-dry paper and some wheel bearing grease and it is moving a lot freer.
I haven’t pulled the tumbler out of the barrel, just rounded the last pin on the end. It’s something to do with the way the new cars allow the accessory electrical circuit to kept running until you remove the key. A mechanical interlock device to do something that could be done simply with electronics and the door open switch on the driver’s door.
Now to put it back together, could be another problem, as I didn’t rotate the steering wheel far enough from the lock position before I pulled the barrel out so now that is locked and I cant get the barrel back in.
Decided that the contact cleaner that I was using was not thick enough and grabbed some WD40, sprayed it inside the lock and also down into the barrel release hole. Then I was able with a bit of giggling, bumping and holding my tong in the right place able to rotate the lock to the I – II and start positions. Once I rotated it to II the barrel release button could be pushed in with my 2.5mm Allen key, and the barrel slid out. Now I can see what the problem is.
I bit of filling, wet-n-dry paper and some wheel bearing grease and it is moving a lot freer.
I haven’t pulled the tumbler out of the barrel, just rounded the last pin on the end. It’s something to do with the way the new cars allow the accessory electrical circuit to kept running until you remove the key. A mechanical interlock device to do something that could be done simply with electronics and the door open switch on the driver’s door.
Now to put it back together, could be another problem, as I didn’t rotate the steering wheel far enough from the lock position before I pulled the barrel out so now that is locked and I cant get the barrel back in.
You have been great ! I cant offer you a beer from Rwanda (only two Opel cars in the whole country) to thank you for this great help, I will do so next time I drop by smile. Key lock problem solved, at least for now. But surprisingly, after I put everything together, car radio and electric windows do not work, any idea?
Geppo, Kigali
Geppo, Kigali
Thanks for that. It seems my problems is something else and I'm guessing it's to do with the latch inside the barrel housing.
One word of warning! When I removed the barrel the latch inside the housing popped up. You can see the latch in the down position in the 4th and 5th photos from Ezakimak above. If it's in the up position you won't be able to get the barrel back in again. No problem! Use a screwdriver to click it back down (heart lost a beat when it happened to me!).
For now will leave the key in the ignition and lock the car with the spare key.
Cheers!
One word of warning! When I removed the barrel the latch inside the housing popped up. You can see the latch in the down position in the 4th and 5th photos from Ezakimak above. If it's in the up position you won't be able to get the barrel back in again. No problem! Use a screwdriver to click it back down (heart lost a beat when it happened to me!).
For now will leave the key in the ignition and lock the car with the spare key.
Cheers!
One year on an I just had the same problem. It's 35 degrees outside (Spain) and my wife left the car in the Sun with all windows and sunroof closed. The key won't turn in the barrel and the steering wheel is locked. I took the steering wheel housing off and have sprayed WD40 into the barrel but it is not budging, so I'm looking at the expense of a tow truck to take it to Opel. However, I just read on the net that the RAC solution is to give the barrel a good thump. So, with nothing else to lose I put the key in the ignition and used a large flat blade screwdriver against the barrel while I gave it a thump with the hammer (don't thump the key itself). First time - nothing. Second time and slightly harder and the door open alarm has started, so the barrel has moved. Moved the screwdriver to the other side of the barrel (below the key) and another good hard thump. Bingo, the barrel is in and I can turn the key. Started the engine - great. Turned it back to the "ON" position and disconnected the battery until tomorrow morning when I can get it down to the Opel dealership for a new barrel. Remember - with it in the "ON" position you can remove the barrel. Thank you everyone on the Internet who has made this possible!
thx for all the help guys, this worked for me! just a couple of points:
1) to get my wiper assy out, i had to depress a latch above the assy, and also below the assy (which required me to loosen the bot plastic mold - i couldn't remove it because of the wheel height adjustment lever)
2) like a few posters have mentioned, i couldn't get the ignition barrel out in step 5 until i was able to turn the key to position I or II, which seemed like a bit of a catch 22 since the whole reason i was removing the barrel in the first place was cause i couldn't turn the key. eventually i tried the screwdriver technique rippenburn suggested, and it worked - Note: you need to hit the screwdriver with the hammer WHILE you are turning the key (you might need a hand to do this).
3) from now on i'll be turning the key in the ignition much slower - i feel this may reduce wear on the 'ramp' inside the barrel
1) to get my wiper assy out, i had to depress a latch above the assy, and also below the assy (which required me to loosen the bot plastic mold - i couldn't remove it because of the wheel height adjustment lever)
2) like a few posters have mentioned, i couldn't get the ignition barrel out in step 5 until i was able to turn the key to position I or II, which seemed like a bit of a catch 22 since the whole reason i was removing the barrel in the first place was cause i couldn't turn the key. eventually i tried the screwdriver technique rippenburn suggested, and it worked - Note: you need to hit the screwdriver with the hammer WHILE you are turning the key (you might need a hand to do this).
3) from now on i'll be turning the key in the ignition much slower - i feel this may reduce wear on the 'ramp' inside the barrel
This also worked for me, thanks a mil Ezakimak for an easy to follow guide. Every time I take the car to a garage here in Spain I get the old "oh this looks bad" and quote me minimum of 300€.
Anyway, my key wasn't turning and I made the mistake of hitting the barrel a couple of times whilst not depressing the latch(through the top little hole). The barrel came out, sorted out the sticking problem but the top spring latch came apart when fitting it back into the steering column. I ordered a new lock , barrel & keys on Ebay (16€ from Poland), switched over the barrel so I can use my original keys, refitted and Hey Presto! Thanks Rippenburn for pointing out that the the latch inside the housing has to be depressed.
Anyway, my key wasn't turning and I made the mistake of hitting the barrel a couple of times whilst not depressing the latch(through the top little hole). The barrel came out, sorted out the sticking problem but the top spring latch came apart when fitting it back into the steering column. I ordered a new lock , barrel & keys on Ebay (16€ from Poland), switched over the barrel so I can use my original keys, refitted and Hey Presto! Thanks Rippenburn for pointing out that the the latch inside the housing has to be depressed.
Hi all, thread seems old but hopefully some of you are still active on here.
I've got a 2003 combo lpg and the day before yesterday the pin from the ignition barrel to the ignition switch snapped when I tried to start up. Managed to remove the barrel, the broken piece and the ignition switch itself. I've got a new barrel and key from a breakers (identical part numbers and appearance). The problem is it won't lock in place!! Have tried every which way but is about 3-5 mm away from locking in place. Ignition switch is in the correct position to receive it too. Only thing I can see is the steering lock.... It seems to me that it's hitting it rather than passing over it. Steering lock is currently off. Ive seen on other forums posts about a latch, I've pressed it down but just comes straight back up. Any help would be most appreciated.....Please help
I've got a 2003 combo lpg and the day before yesterday the pin from the ignition barrel to the ignition switch snapped when I tried to start up. Managed to remove the barrel, the broken piece and the ignition switch itself. I've got a new barrel and key from a breakers (identical part numbers and appearance). The problem is it won't lock in place!! Have tried every which way but is about 3-5 mm away from locking in place. Ignition switch is in the correct position to receive it too. Only thing I can see is the steering lock.... It seems to me that it's hitting it rather than passing over it. Steering lock is currently off. Ive seen on other forums posts about a latch, I've pressed it down but just comes straight back up. Any help would be most appreciated.....Please help
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