Spigot Bearing - how do you remove?
Discussion
Having got the gearbox out and the clutch off I can see the spigot bearing and wish to change at the same time given the propensity of these to fail. My question is has anyone done this. If so how do you do it - it looks to me like you need to remove the flywheel - is this correct? In time honoured fashion the Granada Haynes Manual doesn't help at all!!!!
V6 engine BTW.
Cheers
Mark
V6 engine BTW.
Cheers
Mark
find a piece if wood that fits into the bearing exactly. If necessary sand down a piece of broomhandle or something. You want a snug but not tight fit.
Then pack the bearing with grease - fill it up and make sure there are no air bubbles.
Then put your drift in the centre and whack it hard with a big hammer - little taps won't work.
The hydraulic pressure of the grease will force the spigot bearing out backwards on to the drift.
Tap the new bearing in and Robert's your mother's brother.
Then pack the bearing with grease - fill it up and make sure there are no air bubbles.
Then put your drift in the centre and whack it hard with a big hammer - little taps won't work.
The hydraulic pressure of the grease will force the spigot bearing out backwards on to the drift.
Tap the new bearing in and Robert's your mother's brother.
and the alternative is to use a small cold chisel and chisel through the (softer than the crankshaft) bearing outer casing (as advised by main Ford service dept.)
Not as frightening as it sounds as it turned out they really are soft and took about 15mins with no marks to inside of crank. Drifting in is easy with suitably chosen socket, ie just smaller than crank internal, mind you I wasn't laying on my back at the time!
Not as frightening as it sounds as it turned out they really are soft and took about 15mins with no marks to inside of crank. Drifting in is easy with suitably chosen socket, ie just smaller than crank internal, mind you I wasn't laying on my back at the time!
pringli said:
and the alternative is to use a small cold chisel and chisel through the (softer than the crankshaft) bearing outer casing (as advised by main Ford service dept.)
Not as frightening as it sounds as it turned out they really are soft and took about 15mins with no marks to inside of crank. Drifting in is easy with suitably chosen socket, ie just smaller than crank internal, mind you I wasn't laying on my back at the time!
Thanks, I assume this and the other technique are both post flywheel removal?Not as frightening as it sounds as it turned out they really are soft and took about 15mins with no marks to inside of crank. Drifting in is easy with suitably chosen socket, ie just smaller than crank internal, mind you I wasn't laying on my back at the time!
Mark
Can I just add a little bit of unfortunate experience! This isnt just about the Ford V6 engine. If an engine is old, perhaps one being restored, then there may be enough rust or oxidised grease to prevent the hydraulic method working. Similarly if the bearing has started to collapse that method is less likely to work.
The outer case isn't that soft and it can be very difficult to cut through and once the nearest edge of the bearing has broken away it can be difficult to deal with it.
There is a third method, it needs care but can be a less brutal way of dealing with a really stuck bearing case especially if the crank is valuable: Clean out the bearing of any old rollers etc. Use a small or very well worn grindstone in a power drill (It needs to be considerably smaller than the inside of the bearing case. I have used a old port polishing stone but I imagine the ones used in a Dremel would be OK.), carefully grind a little slot down the length of the bearing. Its quite easy to see when you are through to the crank. Once there is a slot it is relatively easy to lever the rest of the case free.
The outer case isn't that soft and it can be very difficult to cut through and once the nearest edge of the bearing has broken away it can be difficult to deal with it.
There is a third method, it needs care but can be a less brutal way of dealing with a really stuck bearing case especially if the crank is valuable: Clean out the bearing of any old rollers etc. Use a small or very well worn grindstone in a power drill (It needs to be considerably smaller than the inside of the bearing case. I have used a old port polishing stone but I imagine the ones used in a Dremel would be OK.), carefully grind a little slot down the length of the bearing. Its quite easy to see when you are through to the crank. Once there is a slot it is relatively easy to lever the rest of the case free.
Tried to get the spigot bearing out today using the hydraulic method above - no joy.
Didn't want to take a chisel or dremel to the crank so thought I'd look for a proper puller. They cost over £80, therefore thought how do I do this cheaper - the tools were basically a cone pulled up through an expanding collar, a bit like a frame anchor, and then a slide hammer attaches to the end. So I thought I am sure I could make one of those. So I bought an M8 and an M10 frame anchor.
The M8 was too small and sods law the M10 was too big, so used a grinder to reduce the size of the cone and shave off the outer edges of the surrounding bits of the frame anchor until it fitted through the bearing. I then removed the wire bit that holds it all together and replaced it with a jubilee clip for strength (and because the wire got in the way) I then tightened down until the frame anchor was well wedged in the bearing, put a metal strong back over the bolt part of the anchor and then using packer pieces and another nut wound out the bearing.
Pleased as punch and no risk of damaging the crankshaft.
My "tool" is available for anyone else who wants to use it, and pictures will be on my site soon.
Mark
Didn't want to take a chisel or dremel to the crank so thought I'd look for a proper puller. They cost over £80, therefore thought how do I do this cheaper - the tools were basically a cone pulled up through an expanding collar, a bit like a frame anchor, and then a slide hammer attaches to the end. So I thought I am sure I could make one of those. So I bought an M8 and an M10 frame anchor.
The M8 was too small and sods law the M10 was too big, so used a grinder to reduce the size of the cone and shave off the outer edges of the surrounding bits of the frame anchor until it fitted through the bearing. I then removed the wire bit that holds it all together and replaced it with a jubilee clip for strength (and because the wire got in the way) I then tightened down until the frame anchor was well wedged in the bearing, put a metal strong back over the bolt part of the anchor and then using packer pieces and another nut wound out the bearing.
Pleased as punch and no risk of damaging the crankshaft.
My "tool" is available for anyone else who wants to use it, and pictures will be on my site soon.
Mark
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