dismantle top ball joint - how?

[magpies]

How does this come apart - both top joints have split rubber boots so I need to renew the joints. I've undun the not inside the upper cup but a bit stumped as to how to break the tapered joint (tried hitting the stud and also the casing at the same time)

[mep12345]

I found that I needed a ball joint splitter (the "C" shaped type with the bolt that applies force to the top of the taper piece) to break the taper. But if the rubber boots are knackered then a fork type should work, its just the other type protects the rubber.

Twatting the taper just did nothing for me although some advice I was given today said hit taper and bottom together to "break" the taper by setting up resonance then it should just knock out - worth a try

Edited by mep12345 on Sunday 19th April 20:04

[GreenV8S]

Suggest removing the adapter collar from the top of the upright and get the whole thing off the vehicle so you can get at it properly, if you haven't already.

To separate them I refit the nut upside down (so the nyloc end is not exposed) and screw it on level with the end of the thread, rest the collar against a big heavy vice, and hit the thread/nut very very hard with a lump hammer and big drift.

[Barkychoc]

I just 'twatted' it with a fork type splitter - but it didn't work till I cut the rest of the rubber seal away as it absorbed the impact - and even then it took a few bloody hard hits till it gave up.

[phillpot]

Just done mine, couple of good whacks on the housing with a big hammer and fell apart, its no good pussy footing around, 2lb lump hammer minimum !

[magpies]

this is the top ball joint the one where the nut is up inside the housing - held in by the clamp pinch bolt and has the brake flexi bracket(not the botom one where a ball joint splitters works perfectly
thewhole assembly is off the car

[phillpot]

Yep, take nut off and hit it, the shock distorts the housing minutely and taper will fall apart !

[GreenV8S]

magpies said:

thewhole assembly is off the car

Good, now you just need to introduce it to the business end of a large lump hammer.

[jwoffshore]

I used a length of 1/2" (from memory, maybe some other size would do) studding, passed it through the (empty) lower balljoint hole, to bear up against the stub of the upper balljoint. I used a nut, tightened against the upper face of the lower balljoint lug, to apply compression to the studding, thus pushing against the upper balljoint. Coupled then with a sharp tap with a hammer, this freed the upper balljoint. I considered this to be a more scientific method than beating the st out of it with a lump hammer. Additionally, some heat might help.

[clarenceboddiger]

Barkychoc said:

I just 'twatted' it with a fork type splitter .

A term to be used in future technical articles no doubt.ps Good luck with the job interview Chris.

[phillpot]

Additionally, some heat might help.
[/quote]

Really wouldn't go there with the heat idea, unless changing wheel bearings at same time. Reckon enough heat to have any effect will melt grease out of bearings and probably "cook" the grease seal !

[magpies]

Ended up using a press at a local fabrication shop

now - where do I get new ones - codes anyone??

also are the lower ball jopintd standard sierra? or where and part numbers

[mep12345]

magpies said:

Ended up using a press at a local fabrication shop

now - where do I get new ones - codes anyone??

also are the lower ball jopintd standard sierra? or where and part numbers

go on ebay search for Saab 900 ball joints and buy the ones at £19.99 a pair. The TVR search will quote you the same per joint for the same item.

mark

[tvrgit]

mep12345 said:

magpies said:

Ended up using a press at a local fabrication shop

now - where do I get new ones - codes anyone??

also are the lower ball jopintd standard sierra? or where and part numbers

go on ebay search for Saab 900 ball joints and buy the ones at £19.99 a pair. The TVR search will quote you the same per joint for the same item.

mark

Yep those are the top ball joints

The lower ball joints aren't Ford - they are Fiat 124 / Lada Riva. Some pattern parts won't fit, either because the flange is too thick (and you have to file it down) or because they don't have enough range of articulation in the joint and could break when the suspension is on full drop - there is another thread going on in parallel about those.

This has been discussed at length over the years so a search is probably your best bet.

[mep12345]

tvrgit said:

mep12345 said:

magpies said:

Ended up using a press at a local fabrication shop

now - where do I get new ones - codes anyone??

also are the lower ball jopintd standard sierra? or where and part numbers

go on ebay search for Saab 900 ball joints and buy the ones at £19.99 a pair. The TVR search will quote you the same per joint for the same item.

mark

Yep those are the top ball joints

The lower ball joints aren't Ford - they are Fiat 124 / Lada Riva. Some pattern parts won't fit, either because the flange is too thick (and you have to file it down) or because they don't have enough range of articulation in the joint and could break when the suspension is on full drop - there is another thread going on in parallel about those.

This has been discussed at length over the years so a search is probably your best bet.

oops the beer goggles when replying last night meant I didn't read the "LOWER" ball joint part of the question.

Note to self - don't post when pd

Mark