My vmax rx7 build
Discussion
OK, well ive decided to start my project thread, been meaning to do this for a few weeks but never got around to it, im hoping for as much advise as you guys can give me and hopefully this will be alot of fun.
Right lets start at the beginning, after looking around for ages to get myself my next car i get myself a budget of 3-4k for something.
My criteria was that it would have to able to take a good thrashing and i didnt have to watch the rear view mirror for smoke everytime i put my foot down(5yrs of running a 12sec r5 turbo)
so i was left with an evo 4, and rx7, 200sx and a r32 gtr.
After thinking, well how fast do i want to go and at what point with would i be happy i had enough power i sat down and thought, well my 5 was 325bhp/ton and i want to go faster than that so im looking at 450bhp evo/200sx, that will cost a fortune and will only match my old car.
I then did some more research on the gtr, at 4k im looking at the very bottom end of the market and id again need 470-480bhp to match it, skyline tax is pretty bad and id need at least injectors, turbos etc to get that.
So finally i looked around and after watching many a youtube video and also alot of initial d i realised the best handling and cheapest car for big power was the rx7.
So basically lived on beans and noodles to try and set myself a decent timescale to get the money together, i then started to look at cars.
Eventually i found one in derby, pics look good and was decently priced at 3k
(pic below)
when going to see the car i marvelled of how good condition it was, not a spot of rot, with it coming into the uk in 2006 and only done 55k it was worth it, i knew the clutch was on its way out, but compared to 6k for some of the others id seen i thought it was a bargain.
Well a few weeks later it developed a water leak, because of the undertray and the cramped engine bay i couldnt work it out where it was coming from, since it only did it after driving for about 10mins i took the guess that it was coming from the overflow on the AST, so i blocked the overflow and took it for a very steady drive for 5mins, looked underneath and no water, thinking i had cracked it, i headed home and pulled outside only to be greeted with an bang under the bonnet
(im sure you can guess what happened)
The plastic AST exploded! So im stuck with a problem, OK, ill just bridge the between the 2 hoses using a hollowed out pen as it seems to fit the bill and people on the forums say they run without an AST anyway.
So drove it around for a few days, everything seemed fine, even had a couple of 160mph top speed runs...seems people on the forums were correct
Anyway came to my car one morning only to see it surrounded by water, popped the bonnet to see my main waterpipe to the top of the radiator has exploded during the night, ribbed it literally in 2 and i find its my main water hose that was leaking that caused the leak but because the water ran to almost the other side of the engine bay before dripping onto the floor it made it hard to work out it was from there.
A call to WGT to see if he can get one for me, he says he will get one ordered, we after waiting a few days and getting panicky as its my daily driver for work i ring him again to see whats happening, after some research mazda have told him that part is not currently being made anymore, the company mazda used to have make them has gone bump so thats it.
A search of ebay i find a guy selling them blue silicone ones for £29.99 for the set and he only lives 10mins from my house, beats £50 for rubber ones from mazda!
After fitting them i dashed up to WGT to get a metal AST to save the same issue happening again.
Well after a few months i decided i wanted more power so installed a set of second hand HKS filter kit i got cheap(£70) from carl at harward.
Then a month later i fitted a xspower cooler(£120) with the idea that id build some ducting in the future after fdash's decent results with his so the engine bay looks like this.
A few weeks after i decided the clutch really needed to be sorted, i could drive the car but as soon as i put my foot down it would slip madly.
Talking to pip again we discussed clutches and i went for a stage one uprated exedy clutch thats rated for 340ft/lb which i thought should be enough to keep me going for a while.
While i was in for a clutch i got the chance to watch and film this monster being mapped
Well from this point i was pretty happy with the car, drove really well and was alot of fun, though there was no camber at the front and would understeer at the limit so i decided suspension would be my next port of call.
After asking a fduk member about his suspension he offered me his set, only been used in the dry and hardly done any miles, pretty much like new for £300
so after fitting them and messing with the dampering and ride height i noticed alot more grip on the front end by gaining camber, first test was the local roundabout that i used to understeer around, well a big second gear sideways moment definetly told me the front end gripped better!
Looks alot better aswell
So this brings me up to the more present time.
NOW THIS IS WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING
My water seals had been going for quite along time, so i just kept topping the water up but it finally got to the point of no return so i was left with a non-running rex, luckily i knew this would happen eventually so i had been saving for quite a long time in the event id need to get my wallet out.
Now im sure you have been browsing ebay and seen the advert for the rx7 rebuild guy, well i decided to give him a ring and see what he had to say.
Now what can i say about this guy, most companies ive ever called in the past cant get you off the phone quick enough but steve rivett was completely the opposite, if you call him you best have a good 1hr of your life free to talk.
We spoke about everything rotary from the simple stuff to everything complex, never have i met a guy so passionate about what he does, or infact so honest. He told me about the first 2 engines he built that didnt even last 500miles because of mistakes he made while he was learning, that spoke to me about how open he was, i would never imagine any other tuner tell you about there f
kups! He is a retired engineer and only started this because his son is a racecar driver and owns a rx7 trackcar.
So after a long chat i decided to take my car down there, upon arriving im surrounded by other rx7s that hes working on, he borrows a garage from a friend in return for looking after his rx7(also owns a f355 and f40!), this was all very grass routes stuff and i like the personal touch he gives.
Anyway, we begin talking about what he will be doing to the car and what i want from the car.
This is the point where we sit down and have a good think, realistically how much power do i truely want, what level will i need to be at that ill never want anymore, i come to the conclusion that 500bhp should be enough.
So he shows me this tools and we talk about porting, he owns a set of racing beat large street port templates and shows me a current engine he is in the middle of porting. We look at rjpartri dyno graph to see what he has done in the past.
this is on twins with 0.8bar of boost, as you can see its making good power up at 8k, if was even making decent power at 8.5k and from what ive read that means that the ports are quite large and are flowing well.
So since he has never built an engine that he knows is going for 500bhp we talk some more about the porting, using the templates to start him off, once he has done that he is going to push the porting a bit more than normal for maximum flow, also hes going to port my UIM, LIM and remove the secondary throttle.
Finally when building it back up he will fit a sump brace and fast reacting air temp sensor to help out in future mapping.
This now brings me onto bolt-ons to make the power.
TURBO kit
Im going for the rx7 store GT4088 TURBO KIT
Which according to the compressor maps should flow a nice 550bhp at 1.3bar
ill need a 3inch decat which i can get done cheap locally
a power fc to control everything
FUEL
Im going for the rx7 store Extreme Fuel System
with uprated fuel pump of course.
Now intercooler is where im unsure of, ive looked at the ebay greddy style setups but i need to do some more research on them to see what sort over power people have made on them
All in all including my rebuild im budgeting 5k to acheive this, which aslong as im careful with my money i believe is achievable.
This very much is a budget build so im not gonna be throwing 3k t51r kits around.
So what does everyone think, the car will be ready to run the engine in 2weeks time, so it will be a while before its on the dyno but im pretty hopeful.
I will update this thread as i go along but everyone is welcome to comment good or bad as im happy to learn off anyone
Right lets start at the beginning, after looking around for ages to get myself my next car i get myself a budget of 3-4k for something.
My criteria was that it would have to able to take a good thrashing and i didnt have to watch the rear view mirror for smoke everytime i put my foot down(5yrs of running a 12sec r5 turbo)
so i was left with an evo 4, and rx7, 200sx and a r32 gtr.
After thinking, well how fast do i want to go and at what point with would i be happy i had enough power i sat down and thought, well my 5 was 325bhp/ton and i want to go faster than that so im looking at 450bhp evo/200sx, that will cost a fortune and will only match my old car.
I then did some more research on the gtr, at 4k im looking at the very bottom end of the market and id again need 470-480bhp to match it, skyline tax is pretty bad and id need at least injectors, turbos etc to get that.
So finally i looked around and after watching many a youtube video and also alot of initial d i realised the best handling and cheapest car for big power was the rx7.
So basically lived on beans and noodles to try and set myself a decent timescale to get the money together, i then started to look at cars.
Eventually i found one in derby, pics look good and was decently priced at 3k
(pic below)
when going to see the car i marvelled of how good condition it was, not a spot of rot, with it coming into the uk in 2006 and only done 55k it was worth it, i knew the clutch was on its way out, but compared to 6k for some of the others id seen i thought it was a bargain.
Well a few weeks later it developed a water leak, because of the undertray and the cramped engine bay i couldnt work it out where it was coming from, since it only did it after driving for about 10mins i took the guess that it was coming from the overflow on the AST, so i blocked the overflow and took it for a very steady drive for 5mins, looked underneath and no water, thinking i had cracked it, i headed home and pulled outside only to be greeted with an bang under the bonnet
(im sure you can guess what happened)
The plastic AST exploded! So im stuck with a problem, OK, ill just bridge the between the 2 hoses using a hollowed out pen as it seems to fit the bill and people on the forums say they run without an AST anyway.
So drove it around for a few days, everything seemed fine, even had a couple of 160mph top speed runs...seems people on the forums were correct
Anyway came to my car one morning only to see it surrounded by water, popped the bonnet to see my main waterpipe to the top of the radiator has exploded during the night, ribbed it literally in 2 and i find its my main water hose that was leaking that caused the leak but because the water ran to almost the other side of the engine bay before dripping onto the floor it made it hard to work out it was from there.
A call to WGT to see if he can get one for me, he says he will get one ordered, we after waiting a few days and getting panicky as its my daily driver for work i ring him again to see whats happening, after some research mazda have told him that part is not currently being made anymore, the company mazda used to have make them has gone bump so thats it.
A search of ebay i find a guy selling them blue silicone ones for £29.99 for the set and he only lives 10mins from my house, beats £50 for rubber ones from mazda!
After fitting them i dashed up to WGT to get a metal AST to save the same issue happening again.
Well after a few months i decided i wanted more power so installed a set of second hand HKS filter kit i got cheap(£70) from carl at harward.
Then a month later i fitted a xspower cooler(£120) with the idea that id build some ducting in the future after fdash's decent results with his so the engine bay looks like this.
A few weeks after i decided the clutch really needed to be sorted, i could drive the car but as soon as i put my foot down it would slip madly.
Talking to pip again we discussed clutches and i went for a stage one uprated exedy clutch thats rated for 340ft/lb which i thought should be enough to keep me going for a while.
While i was in for a clutch i got the chance to watch and film this monster being mapped
Well from this point i was pretty happy with the car, drove really well and was alot of fun, though there was no camber at the front and would understeer at the limit so i decided suspension would be my next port of call.
After asking a fduk member about his suspension he offered me his set, only been used in the dry and hardly done any miles, pretty much like new for £300
so after fitting them and messing with the dampering and ride height i noticed alot more grip on the front end by gaining camber, first test was the local roundabout that i used to understeer around, well a big second gear sideways moment definetly told me the front end gripped better!
Looks alot better aswell
So this brings me up to the more present time.
NOW THIS IS WHERE IT GETS INTERESTING
My water seals had been going for quite along time, so i just kept topping the water up but it finally got to the point of no return so i was left with a non-running rex, luckily i knew this would happen eventually so i had been saving for quite a long time in the event id need to get my wallet out.
Now im sure you have been browsing ebay and seen the advert for the rx7 rebuild guy, well i decided to give him a ring and see what he had to say.
Now what can i say about this guy, most companies ive ever called in the past cant get you off the phone quick enough but steve rivett was completely the opposite, if you call him you best have a good 1hr of your life free to talk.
We spoke about everything rotary from the simple stuff to everything complex, never have i met a guy so passionate about what he does, or infact so honest. He told me about the first 2 engines he built that didnt even last 500miles because of mistakes he made while he was learning, that spoke to me about how open he was, i would never imagine any other tuner tell you about there f
kups! He is a retired engineer and only started this because his son is a racecar driver and owns a rx7 trackcar.So after a long chat i decided to take my car down there, upon arriving im surrounded by other rx7s that hes working on, he borrows a garage from a friend in return for looking after his rx7(also owns a f355 and f40!), this was all very grass routes stuff and i like the personal touch he gives.
Anyway, we begin talking about what he will be doing to the car and what i want from the car.
This is the point where we sit down and have a good think, realistically how much power do i truely want, what level will i need to be at that ill never want anymore, i come to the conclusion that 500bhp should be enough.
So he shows me this tools and we talk about porting, he owns a set of racing beat large street port templates and shows me a current engine he is in the middle of porting. We look at rjpartri dyno graph to see what he has done in the past.
this is on twins with 0.8bar of boost, as you can see its making good power up at 8k, if was even making decent power at 8.5k and from what ive read that means that the ports are quite large and are flowing well.
So since he has never built an engine that he knows is going for 500bhp we talk some more about the porting, using the templates to start him off, once he has done that he is going to push the porting a bit more than normal for maximum flow, also hes going to port my UIM, LIM and remove the secondary throttle.
Finally when building it back up he will fit a sump brace and fast reacting air temp sensor to help out in future mapping.
This now brings me onto bolt-ons to make the power.
TURBO kit
Im going for the rx7 store GT4088 TURBO KIT
Which according to the compressor maps should flow a nice 550bhp at 1.3bar
ill need a 3inch decat which i can get done cheap locally
a power fc to control everything
FUEL
Im going for the rx7 store Extreme Fuel System
with uprated fuel pump of course.
Now intercooler is where im unsure of, ive looked at the ebay greddy style setups but i need to do some more research on them to see what sort over power people have made on them
All in all including my rebuild im budgeting 5k to acheive this, which aslong as im careful with my money i believe is achievable.
This very much is a budget build so im not gonna be throwing 3k t51r kits around.
So what does everyone think, the car will be ready to run the engine in 2weeks time, so it will be a while before its on the dyno but im pretty hopeful.
I will update this thread as i go along but everyone is welcome to comment good or bad as im happy to learn off anyone
after chatting to a mate i went back to my engine builder to talk more about his porting, he spent all weekend researching to see how much further he could go, then spent monday increasing the size of the ports again, should be interesting as they are now exactly the same as these pics below and the info on what it should run like.
stock vs big port
overlapped each other to see the difference.
the info on this says:
Same as port style 1, but with advanced port timing. Gives awesome power through the midrange and spools turbos a lot quicker. This is the port where your idle quality deteriorates. A reasonable idle of 800-900 rpm can still be achieved, but you’ll notice some misfiring due to the extra port overlap. Vacuum signal typically between 14 and 16” @ 900 rpm. This port can be customized to your specification. Gas mileage either stays about the same or decreases slightly, but 20+ mpg on a properly tuned setup is still attainable, depending on weight, driving habits, etc…. stock turbo(s) is inadequate and should be upgraded. you’ll see the best results with an engine management system.
also decided on my intercooler setup so now its just a case of waiting to get the money together to bolt stuff on
stock vs big port
overlapped each other to see the difference.
the info on this says:
Same as port style 1, but with advanced port timing. Gives awesome power through the midrange and spools turbos a lot quicker. This is the port where your idle quality deteriorates. A reasonable idle of 800-900 rpm can still be achieved, but you’ll notice some misfiring due to the extra port overlap. Vacuum signal typically between 14 and 16” @ 900 rpm. This port can be customized to your specification. Gas mileage either stays about the same or decreases slightly, but 20+ mpg on a properly tuned setup is still attainable, depending on weight, driving habits, etc…. stock turbo(s) is inadequate and should be upgraded. you’ll see the best results with an engine management system.
also decided on my intercooler setup so now its just a case of waiting to get the money together to bolt stuff on
got some pics from steve
engine out and bay looking a bit dirty!!
removed secondary butterflies
inlet manifolds
throttlebody
engine plate porting
Housing ex porting
nice housing surface
engine ready to build
Engine block built
bolt ons added for running engine in
shall be fetching the car on wednesday, cant wait, then its the 1000miles of walking pace!
engine out and bay looking a bit dirty!!
removed secondary butterflies
inlet manifolds
throttlebody
engine plate porting
Housing ex porting
nice housing surface
engine ready to build
Engine block built
bolt ons added for running engine in
shall be fetching the car on wednesday, cant wait, then its the 1000miles of walking pace!
picked up the car wednesday
where the magic happens!
a car steve is working on at the moment, having fun with electrics
my baby!
all in and ready to go
well got the train down there, spent ages chatting the usual rotary stuff, coming up with ideas and generally trying to stay warm, my god it was cold!!
any we come to start it and it wont start, spent ages trying to work out what it was and finally found that one of my brand new NGKs had died even though it was running fine the day before.
After replacing that and getting it started what can i say....my god the noise, not quite the brap brap of a bridge but its lumpy as hell, reminds me of when you put a set of extreme cams in a piston engine. just shows how much extra air is going into the engine!
so pretty much just pootling around at the moment until i have the money for a power fc but it desperately needs it as it hunts like mad.
So thats pretty much it, all will be quiet for a while now while i save my money, so next is power fc, then intercooler/rad setup, injectors and map but its nice to do 450miles and the coolant hasnt even moved lol
sorted out intercooler and rad setup
600x410x70mm core! should be ample cooling
radiator.....looks twice as thick as the standard crappy one when i saw one down steves
got a seat from a friend today
stripped it down and repainted the back in mazda classic red i had spare
just need to order some bases to bolt to the floor now, think im gonna get them from a guy called atomicrex
where the magic happens!
a car steve is working on at the moment, having fun with electrics
my baby!
all in and ready to go
well got the train down there, spent ages chatting the usual rotary stuff, coming up with ideas and generally trying to stay warm, my god it was cold!!
any we come to start it and it wont start, spent ages trying to work out what it was and finally found that one of my brand new NGKs had died even though it was running fine the day before.
After replacing that and getting it started what can i say....my god the noise, not quite the brap brap of a bridge but its lumpy as hell, reminds me of when you put a set of extreme cams in a piston engine. just shows how much extra air is going into the engine!
so pretty much just pootling around at the moment until i have the money for a power fc but it desperately needs it as it hunts like mad.
So thats pretty much it, all will be quiet for a while now while i save my money, so next is power fc, then intercooler/rad setup, injectors and map but its nice to do 450miles and the coolant hasnt even moved lol
sorted out intercooler and rad setup
600x410x70mm core! should be ample cooling
radiator.....looks twice as thick as the standard crappy one when i saw one down steves
got a seat from a friend today
stripped it down and repainted the back in mazda classic red i had spare
just need to order some bases to bolt to the floor now, think im gonna get them from a guy called atomicrex
Baffled Spoon said:
Car looks great - few things look as nice as an un-chavified rx7. Very comprehensive build too. I've been having a disturbing urge lately to get an fd rx with a blown engine and swap a ls2 v8 into it 
that seems to be the popular thing at the moment, a rebuilt rx7 is worth 5-6k, blown engine or water seal failure(like head gasket) is only worth about 1k so most people break them for parts.I did think about the V8 conversion but decided ill stay with the rotary as i love turbos and i love revs so this suits me well, im up to 600miles now so the engine is nicely bedding in, though staying below 4k sucks, should have my ecu just after xmas if i avoid buying everyone xmas presents!
Just to let everyone know the reason i called this my vmax build is because the UK record for the fastest rx7 stands at 183mph which to be fair isnt all that impressive, my plan is to beat that record late next year at a vmax show, infact im looking at turbos again because id like to be the first rx7 to break 200mph in europe which my calcs say ill do it with 630-650bhp at brunters
Edited by turbotoaster on Sunday 13th December 01:20
turbotoaster said:
Just to let everyone know the reason i called this my vmax build is because the UK record for the fastest rx7 stands at 183mph which to be fair isnt all that impressive, my plan is to beat that record late next year at a vmax show, infact im looking at turbos again because id like to be the first rx7 to break 200mph in europe which my calcs say ill do it with 630-650bhp at brunters
Go for it my son!Edited by turbotoaster on Sunday 13th December 01:20
Nice looking car I had a gen II (13B Turbo) that people never understood. One of my neighbours thought it was a Lotus Excell until I started it on a cold day. My Gen II got side swiped by a Chav doing reverse dougnuts in a R5 GtT outside a car parts shop. I used the engine in a Triumph Spitfire in the end.
Hope you keep the car looking stock and don't pillock around trying to drift. A Kiwi friend of mine uses his RX7 as a tarmac rally car. Drifting is for people who can't drive quickly.
One of my neighbours thought it was a Lotus Excell until I started it on a cold day. My Gen II got side swiped by a Chav doing reverse dougnuts in a R5 GtT outside a car parts shop. I used the engine in a Triumph Spitfire in the end.Hope you keep the car looking stock and don't pillock around trying to drift. A Kiwi friend of mine uses his RX7 as a tarmac rally car. Drifting is for people who can't drive quickly.
well im not to fussed about all the drifting thing ill be honest, it would be nice to have a go at a training day just purely so i can learn the car a little better, but that would be mainly so im a much better grip driver. the car was designed to be one of the best handling cars to come out of japan, so thats what its gonna be used for, use its strengths, if i wanted to go drifting id have bought a 200sx
the bodywork is a big debate in my head to be honest, im not bothered about big gay wings or anything like that, but depending on temps i might need to change my bumper, but then its the offset of extra air going into my engine bay(larger opening) verses more drag hence ill buy one if really required but id rather spend money where its needed than purely looks.
here is my engine bay design, it took a fair bit of working out, it may look simple but noone has a setup like it in the uk, most go for v-mount kits or put the intercooler in the bumper and leave a gap between the rad and cooler, my design was partly inspired by how the cossie guys do it and also by a bit of common sense, for example v-mounts work, but if your blasting that got air upwards through the cooler and it hits the bonnet, where does it go from there unless you have a vented bonnet and thats something i dont want for the moment, also v mount kits for an rx7 cost around £1k and im not prepared to that.
Ok ill explain the colours above to give you an idea
red is radiator
green is rad fans
blue is the intercooler
grey is aluminum ducting
theses sizes are from what i have researched on the cooler rad im using but they are just a guide hence the quick draw in paint.
now the reason this should in theory work in my setup is the ducting, the intercooler will be fully ducted at the top, bottom and sides, this air will be drawn through the front bumper and the ducting will connect directly to the bumper so that any air entering will have to travel through the cooler, also because there is no gap between the rad and intercooler it will be forced to travel through that aswell.
The only thing that might need adjustment is heatsoak from the rad to the cooler when they are touching, if that is the case, ill move the cooler 1cm off the rad and close the gaps again with ali, but its worked on alot of racecars so we shall see. A bit of research into air flow diagrams and also my alevel physics means that although the bumper opening is smaller that the full area of the intercooler it will still work effectively because the area between the bumper and the cooler expands the air starts to slow down, but if im doing say 100mph if the air is only hitting the cooler at 70mph then it wont make any difference as in theory it will travel through the cooler slower in turn taking more heat away.
Sorry if im waffling on but i love talking about stuff like this.
the bodywork is a big debate in my head to be honest, im not bothered about big gay wings or anything like that, but depending on temps i might need to change my bumper, but then its the offset of extra air going into my engine bay(larger opening) verses more drag hence ill buy one if really required but id rather spend money where its needed than purely looks.
here is my engine bay design, it took a fair bit of working out, it may look simple but noone has a setup like it in the uk, most go for v-mount kits or put the intercooler in the bumper and leave a gap between the rad and cooler, my design was partly inspired by how the cossie guys do it and also by a bit of common sense, for example v-mounts work, but if your blasting that got air upwards through the cooler and it hits the bonnet, where does it go from there unless you have a vented bonnet and thats something i dont want for the moment, also v mount kits for an rx7 cost around £1k and im not prepared to that.
Ok ill explain the colours above to give you an idea
red is radiator
green is rad fans
blue is the intercooler
grey is aluminum ducting
theses sizes are from what i have researched on the cooler rad im using but they are just a guide hence the quick draw in paint.
now the reason this should in theory work in my setup is the ducting, the intercooler will be fully ducted at the top, bottom and sides, this air will be drawn through the front bumper and the ducting will connect directly to the bumper so that any air entering will have to travel through the cooler, also because there is no gap between the rad and intercooler it will be forced to travel through that aswell.
The only thing that might need adjustment is heatsoak from the rad to the cooler when they are touching, if that is the case, ill move the cooler 1cm off the rad and close the gaps again with ali, but its worked on alot of racecars so we shall see. A bit of research into air flow diagrams and also my alevel physics means that although the bumper opening is smaller that the full area of the intercooler it will still work effectively because the area between the bumper and the cooler expands the air starts to slow down, but if im doing say 100mph if the air is only hitting the cooler at 70mph then it wont make any difference as in theory it will travel through the cooler slower in turn taking more heat away.
Sorry if im waffling on but i love talking about stuff like this.
Great read! Best of luck with the car!
I have never seen the internals of a wankel engine till I saw your pics!
I love the shape of the Rx7, one day perhaps and yes the LS2 conversion sounds fun! I have read up on it in this months PPC
But listening to some of the beasts on you tube a rotary engine car would be good! Its just the reliabilty that scares me from buying one.
I have never seen the internals of a wankel engine till I saw your pics!
I love the shape of the Rx7, one day perhaps and yes the LS2 conversion sounds fun! I have read up on it in this months PPC
But listening to some of the beasts on you tube a rotary engine car would be good! Its just the reliabilty that scares me from buying one.
tommy18 said:
good work mate! i have a single turbo fd too! great cars! was the rebuild cheap compared to some of the big name tuners?
well a basic rebuild is 1850, no vat or anything like that, theres basically 1050 worth of parts and he charges 800 to take the engine out, strip it, rebuild it, put it back in and give 12month/12k mile warrantee, for that money i thought its not worth doing myself. My build was a fair bit more than that as i had alot more stuff done, ie i had new rotor housings instead of reusing my old ones as i wanted perfect compression and alot of little changes and porting along the way.deuchars said:
That will be some car once finished!
Its a cracking looking car as it stands.Always figured that this gen of RX7 and the NSX were two of the best looking cars of all time. Purely on the visual side I'd prefer either to most Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Porsches. Utterly sublime.
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