Toyota Supra mk3 3.0 - what should i knwo?
Discussion
not sure if this is the right place but hey...
im looking to get a Toyota supra mk3 3.0 manual - is there anything i should know before i venture further?
what are the prices like on parts?
has anyone out there had any experience with these, running costs, issues etc - any info would be rad
cheers
im looking to get a Toyota supra mk3 3.0 manual - is there anything i should know before i venture further?
what are the prices like on parts?
has anyone out there had any experience with these, running costs, issues etc - any info would be rad
cheers
Gaz. said:
They eat head gaskets but most by now ought to be using upgraded head gaskets but it's vital that you use Toyota 4life coolant.
Upgraded HeadGaskets? Most Supras that have suffered a Blown Head Gasket have had their Gaskets replaced with the pattern part crap you'll find on ebay. Although some are better than others, they are completely inferior to the OE Toyota items. My first supra had a documented Head Gasket change using an eBay kit. It failed 150 miles later... Anyway, the issue was never really the HeadGasket design, but the fact that Toyota's Head Bolt torque figures were wrong. 56f/lbs compared to the 72f/lbs it should have been.
The 7M engine also does not like to be starved of oil or it WILL knock. Rust is a killer too. Parts can be expensive going to toyota direct, but there is always a few cars being broken for spares.
Aside from the BHG thing, Rust is the worse part, check the rear arches, especially on the inside around the suspension turrets. 4 Life coolant is a must, definately worth taking whatever you buy for a full coolant flush.
If it's got an after-market exhaust, you need to check the turbo, as removing the restriction on the pipe usually causes turbo seals to leak, giving them a thirst for oil. Keep the oil topped up, I used to change mine every 3000 miles just to be safe, and got the motor to 150k with no issues.
Spares, well, you can get almost everything from Toyota still, but prices vary from 'It's that cheap?' to 'How much???' with no real correlation to the part itself, although there is a thriving second hand market. There's a guy in Cannock with a stack of second hand spares that he'll happily sell on.
I loved mine to bits, but replaced it now with a Stagea for a little more practicality.
If it's got an after-market exhaust, you need to check the turbo, as removing the restriction on the pipe usually causes turbo seals to leak, giving them a thirst for oil. Keep the oil topped up, I used to change mine every 3000 miles just to be safe, and got the motor to 150k with no issues.
Spares, well, you can get almost everything from Toyota still, but prices vary from 'It's that cheap?' to 'How much???' with no real correlation to the part itself, although there is a thriving second hand market. There's a guy in Cannock with a stack of second hand spares that he'll happily sell on.
I loved mine to bits, but replaced it now with a Stagea for a little more practicality.
Tom Standish said:
awesome cheers guys
the one im looking at (being 22) is the n/a model
I'd personally advise against a n/a myself. The insurance difference isn't too great, nor is the initial price difference. Sure there is more stuff to go from, but an N/A is still prone to stuff like the BHG issue. You'll also have to issue of eventually always driving your car and saying "Damn, I wish I waited for a Turbo" the one im looking at (being 22) is the n/a model
. Further more, Manual Turbo cars are getting as rare as hens teeth thanks to the Drift boys obsession with putting 2JZGTE engines in Datsuns, so buy now before they become extinct! By the way, age is no excuse
I'm 18 and am looking to get my grubby mits on a turbo as soon as a good one comes up. When you're young insurance hurts on everything, so you might as well spend the few extra hundred quid and get something that you'll enjoySimps said:
Tom Standish said:
awesome cheers guys
the one im looking at (being 22) is the n/a model
I'd personally advise against a n/a myself. The insurance difference isn't too great, nor is the initial price difference. Sure there is more stuff to go from, but an N/A is still prone to stuff like the BHG issue. You'll also have to issue of eventually always driving your car and saying "Damn, I wish I waited for a Turbo" the one im looking at (being 22) is the n/a model
. Further more, Manual Turbo cars are getting as rare as hens teeth thanks to the Drift boys obsession with putting 2JZGTE engines in Datsuns, so buy now before they become extinct! By the way, age is no excuse
I'm 18 and am looking to get my grubby mits on a turbo as soon as a good one comes up. When you're young insurance hurts on everything, so you might as well spend the few extra hundred quid and get something that you'll enjoyalso insurance wise, for the n/a its £900 fully comp, 2 years ncb
for the turbo £2000
Some people get the mk3 and mk4 mixed up, the mk3 is the 86-92 wedge shape with pop up lights and never came with the 2JZGTE.
I had a Mk3 turbo for about ten years, spent an absolute fortune turning it into a complete monster and took the engine far beyond what the chassis could handle! Common things that go wrong on a standard(ish) car are front lower suspension arm bushes and balljoints (evident as vibration under heavy braking), rust in rear arches especially up around the fuel filler neck on drives side, and the seams between the inner and outer wings. Best way to check this is to open the boot and take the plastic panels out from the boot trim, one on each sign. Often if arches are rusty, water gets in here and leaves rusty stains down the bodywork on the inside. Front wings can rust but the front wheel arch liners do a pretty good job of protecting them if they are present.
Gearboxes/clutches are pretty tough, engines are fragile as discussed. Most will need a rebuild by now. Oil pressure tends to drop off with age, oil consumption goes up with age, and they are prone to spinning big end bearings if run low on oil.
Leather seats tend to crack badly, but all the electrics are pretty reliable apart from the heater control unit which suffers from dry joints (a quick fix). Also check bonnet and boot gas struts as they often pack up.
I loved my car but I doubt I would have another one, they are heavy old things with an old-tech engine, plenty of grip on decent tyres and my modified one was ballistic in a straight line (0-100mph in 9.5 seconds!) but ultimately I don't think the costs of keeping one in good order are matched by the driving experience. With hindsight I should have bought a 200SX, just as much performance for about 1/2 the running costs!
I had a Mk3 turbo for about ten years, spent an absolute fortune turning it into a complete monster and took the engine far beyond what the chassis could handle! Common things that go wrong on a standard(ish) car are front lower suspension arm bushes and balljoints (evident as vibration under heavy braking), rust in rear arches especially up around the fuel filler neck on drives side, and the seams between the inner and outer wings. Best way to check this is to open the boot and take the plastic panels out from the boot trim, one on each sign. Often if arches are rusty, water gets in here and leaves rusty stains down the bodywork on the inside. Front wings can rust but the front wheel arch liners do a pretty good job of protecting them if they are present.
Gearboxes/clutches are pretty tough, engines are fragile as discussed. Most will need a rebuild by now. Oil pressure tends to drop off with age, oil consumption goes up with age, and they are prone to spinning big end bearings if run low on oil.
Leather seats tend to crack badly, but all the electrics are pretty reliable apart from the heater control unit which suffers from dry joints (a quick fix). Also check bonnet and boot gas struts as they often pack up.
I loved my car but I doubt I would have another one, they are heavy old things with an old-tech engine, plenty of grip on decent tyres and my modified one was ballistic in a straight line (0-100mph in 9.5 seconds!) but ultimately I don't think the costs of keeping one in good order are matched by the driving experience. With hindsight I should have bought a 200SX, just as much performance for about 1/2 the running costs!
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