Cutting laminate worktops
Discussion
We are having great problems finding a kitchen fitter who will cut some worktops for us. They are 50mm laminate with a cardboard honeycomb core. See here...
http://www.egger.com/pdf/BA_Eurolight-Worktop-Inst...
We have had three fitters round all of which have never seen them before, one said he wasn't confident enough to work on them, one was too busy and the other gave us a quote of £350 for 4 cuts, 1 mitre join and sink/hob cutouts which seems pretty expensive for about half a days work.
Has anyone worked with these and can confirm whether they are that difficult to work with as I'm considering doing it myself. I'm a competent DIY'er but lack the tools (router, jig etc).
http://www.egger.com/pdf/BA_Eurolight-Worktop-Inst...
We have had three fitters round all of which have never seen them before, one said he wasn't confident enough to work on them, one was too busy and the other gave us a quote of £350 for 4 cuts, 1 mitre join and sink/hob cutouts which seems pretty expensive for about half a days work.
Has anyone worked with these and can confirm whether they are that difficult to work with as I'm considering doing it myself. I'm a competent DIY'er but lack the tools (router, jig etc).
k it up!I've done a fair few kitchens in my time (DIY) and have never come across worktops made using the same principle as the cheapest 'orriblest internal doors you can get. Nice and light, but not egg-sactly water resistant.
No wonder you can't get anyone to fit 'em - having planed down cardboard doors and watched them disintegrate before my eyes, I'm guessing you may have to approach the manufacturer of the worktops and let them suggest a local fitter.
No wonder you can't get anyone to fit 'em - having planed down cardboard doors and watched them disintegrate before my eyes, I'm guessing you may have to approach the manufacturer of the worktops and let them suggest a local fitter.
I can't see what the problem is with the apart from having to get a 50mm router cutter, thet still have a solid top and bottom so the principal is the same.
As for an estimate £50 per joint, £40 per cut out and probably £30 to finish the edges of worktops. If the fitter does'nt have a 50mm cutter allow another £30
As for an estimate £50 per joint, £40 per cut out and probably £30 to finish the edges of worktops. If the fitter does'nt have a 50mm cutter allow another £30
Looks like it could be done fairly easily with a router/jig. You're going to need to get the correct fittings though for the joints. The standard fittings are not going to work
TBH I can understand them being a bit wary if they've never seen them before. Have you got a bit of excess to practice with?
TBH I can understand them being a bit wary if they've never seen them before. Have you got a bit of excess to practice with?
They were supplied by Wren Kitchens (who have been excellent BTW) but they cannot recommend fitters as they are fairly new to the market and based in Yorks - I'm in Bristol.
As for cutting worktops - what kind of circular saw blade do I need? Screwfix or toolstation code numbers appreciated.
As for cutting worktops - what kind of circular saw blade do I need? Screwfix or toolstation code numbers appreciated.
garycat said:
As for cutting worktops - what kind of circular saw blade do I need? Screwfix or toolstation code numbers appreciated.
I can't give specifics but my general DIY advice is to make sure you cut it upside down, or the sawblade will rip the heck out of the laminate top. Stand to be corrected though.
garycat said:
As for cutting worktops - what kind of circular saw blade do I need? Screwfix or toolstation code numbers appreciated.
No!!!!!!!Not a circular saw - you'll make a right mess.
You need a router and jigs. A decent power 1/2" router and a set of kitchen jigs.
For a one off job you'll probably get away with a cheapy - especially given that you'll only be making fairly simple cuts.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tools/Silver...
Jig like this for the corner join
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Router+...
Straight bits - again these are cheapy but you'll only use them once.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accesso...
Ask the worktop supplier about a jig for the joint fittings - don't attempt to do them by hand.
You can probably make up a jig for the cut outs - but without knowing sizes/shapes I cant suggest anything - you can get cutout jigs - basically a selection of curves and corners that you need to position with clamps - cant see one on toolstation but I'm sure I've seen them at screwfix.
edit - you may also need a guide bush - there might be one included with the router, otherwise that will be another £10 or so.
Edited by TooLateForAName on Wednesday 24th February 09:13
mackg said:
Nobby Diesel said:
I would have thought that £350 is entirely reasonable, when you factor in the time, equipment, risk etc involved.
OP says it's only half a days work, but that's half a days work with all the kit, risk and experience.
I would be quite prepared to pay.
+1 OP says it's only half a days work, but that's half a days work with all the kit, risk and experience.
I would be quite prepared to pay.
Simpo Two said:
I can't give specifics but my general DIY advice is to make sure you cut it upside down, or the sawblade will rip the heck out of the laminate top. Stand to be corrected though.
Clamp a straight edge (long spirit level would work) to the worktop with quick clamps and use it as a fence.
A regular circular saw blade will work fine but as Simpo says, cut it upside down for a nice neat finish. A powerful saw is also good and don't force it, let the blade do the work.
Practice on some scrap first.
Having cut a fair few worktops in my DIY life I have to say I like the look of them. A standard worktop puts a lot of strain on the router and bit but the honeycomb will ease that a lot. I can't see what the problem is.
Yes upside down and I always tape the underside as a safety measure but have used a good circular saw in the past with excellent results. I have always cut my mitre before I cut to length as if I make a hash of it I always can have another go.
If you want to do it yourself then get some MDF and some wood and make a close model of the worktop and get the jig and router and practise, practise, practise until you are happy with controlling the router and positioning the jig. Far cheaper to screw up some MDF than your worktops.
Yes upside down and I always tape the underside as a safety measure but have used a good circular saw in the past with excellent results. I have always cut my mitre before I cut to length as if I make a hash of it I always can have another go.
If you want to do it yourself then get some MDF and some wood and make a close model of the worktop and get the jig and router and practise, practise, practise until you are happy with controlling the router and positioning the jig. Far cheaper to screw up some MDF than your worktops.
Edited by SLacKer on Thursday 25th February 13:40
A couple of home made jigs, used with a 30mm guide bush, worked a treat.
What clamps do they suggest using for those worktops?
As already said, cut from the underside and I'd start the cut from the post formed edge, finishing at the rear of the worktop.
Waterproof glue for the joint aswell
Good Luck!
What clamps do they suggest using for those worktops?
As already said, cut from the underside and I'd start the cut from the post formed edge, finishing at the rear of the worktop.
Waterproof glue for the joint aswell
Good Luck!
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