Making brake lines?
Discussion
Right, I'll cut a long story short. Girlfriends 106 failed the MOT a couple of months ago and I need to make some new brake lines. I went out an bought some bits to make them with, but I just cant get the flares right. Here's the things I bought:
One Silverline Brake Flaring Kit:
Pic of the 3/16" flare:
Pics of the flare I need to make:
I also need to make a join in one of the pipes, so male and female ends to join together.
I did look on Youtube for help, but the video I watched was from an American who then went on discuss the politics of buying Chinese tools over American ones...
Also can anybody inform me what unions i should be using?
Thanks in advance
One Silverline Brake Flaring Kit:
Pic of the 3/16" flare:
Pics of the flare I need to make:
I also need to make a join in one of the pipes, so male and female ends to join together.
I did look on Youtube for help, but the video I watched was from an American who then went on discuss the politics of buying Chinese tools over American ones...
Also can anybody inform me what unions i should be using?
Thanks in advance
That kit is fairly nasty piece of work. However it is exactly what I used when I made my kit car.
I didn't have any failures though. What is the problem you are having?
It is very important to make sure that the pipe end is clean and de-burred, are you using a little tube cutter? I used one, and cleaned the inside edge of the pipe off.
Make sure you have the correct amount of tube proud of the clamp when you make the first part of the flare.
I didn't have any failures though. What is the problem you are having?
It is very important to make sure that the pipe end is clean and de-burred, are you using a little tube cutter? I used one, and cleaned the inside edge of the pipe off.
Make sure you have the correct amount of tube proud of the clamp when you make the first part of the flare.
be very careful you get the tool lined up square, then whilst tightening too. its very easy to bend the end of the pipe over as you're flaring it. So long as you're careful these tools can be quite effective 
just remember to have the right unions on the right way round before you do the last flare! Err, not from personal experience...
just remember to have the right unions on the right way round before you do the last flare! Err, not from personal experience...
It's one of those skills that is daunting first time but once you learn basically how it all works then it's easy.
Trial and error is the big thing here provided you aren't silly and can see when a bad flare is bad.
To start off I assume you understand the mechanics of the tool. Clamp the pipe in the clamp, wind the flaring tool right out (to get it over the clamp and pipe) slide it over the clamp to the "pointy bit" is above the pipe then depending whether doing a single or double flare slide in the "black jobby" and wind the flaring tool down till it makes contact then gently and progressively tighten it. Keep an eye out for it going lop sided, you don't have to wind the tool all the way to the bottom only enough to make the flare (usually most if not all the way down to the clamp).
With regards to how much to leave above the clamp I forget every time I do one, so I cut a bit too much pipe, you can always hide an extra inch of pipe by routing wide, you can't find an extra inch if cut too short. You want about half a cm above the clamp, but basically start there, see how the flare looks, if it isn't right cut it off and do another with more or less proud from the clamp.
You eventually get the the point of being able to work upside down under a car and produce a decent flare on a pipe that the nipple has twisted off on.
To join your pipes you will need a single and double flare, in other words one using the black jobby (for the male connector) and one without (for the female) this way the flares fit within each other. Make sure you use the correct thread connectors (imperial and metric are available) and the correct length (too short male and the flare won't connect to the bottom of the fitting and will leak.).
Brake pipes are simple technology but it does need to be right.
Trial and error is the big thing here provided you aren't silly and can see when a bad flare is bad.
To start off I assume you understand the mechanics of the tool. Clamp the pipe in the clamp, wind the flaring tool right out (to get it over the clamp and pipe) slide it over the clamp to the "pointy bit" is above the pipe then depending whether doing a single or double flare slide in the "black jobby" and wind the flaring tool down till it makes contact then gently and progressively tighten it. Keep an eye out for it going lop sided, you don't have to wind the tool all the way to the bottom only enough to make the flare (usually most if not all the way down to the clamp).
With regards to how much to leave above the clamp I forget every time I do one, so I cut a bit too much pipe, you can always hide an extra inch of pipe by routing wide, you can't find an extra inch if cut too short. You want about half a cm above the clamp, but basically start there, see how the flare looks, if it isn't right cut it off and do another with more or less proud from the clamp.
You eventually get the the point of being able to work upside down under a car and produce a decent flare on a pipe that the nipple has twisted off on.
To join your pipes you will need a single and double flare, in other words one using the black jobby (for the male connector) and one without (for the female) this way the flares fit within each other. Make sure you use the correct thread connectors (imperial and metric are available) and the correct length (too short male and the flare won't connect to the bottom of the fitting and will leak.).
Brake pipes are simple technology but it does need to be right.
CloakedBummer said:
Im having problems with all of it 
I haven't got an unions yet as I can't seem to find out which ones I need.
I have the same flaring tool. I have even managed to use it to flare steel pipe before. I haven't got an unions yet as I can't seem to find out which ones I need.Remember to put the unions over the pipe before making the flare
Done that more than once.If you take the old ones into a proper motor factors, y'know, one that has an old guy in it and stinks of fags, rather than one filled with bis of shiny tat, they will be able to give you the right ones. They cost literally pence each.
The other posters instructions on use are spot on.
It may be possible that I have the wrong tools for the job. The original flare (that screws up into the rear wheel cylinder) has a flat base, so it sits square against the union.
Anybody suggest some decent reasonably priced tools for the job? I cant bear the Mrs nagging me any longer...
Anybody suggest some decent reasonably priced tools for the job? I cant bear the Mrs nagging me any longer...
Flaring kits are expensive. My suggestion is that you buy some copper pipe and take it to a garage along with your wheel cylinder and ask them to make you a brake pipe with the correct brake nut along with the correct flare (single or double, convex or concave).
Why invest in brake flaring kits when, in reality - unless you're a mechanic - you'll only ever use it a handful of times.
Why invest in brake flaring kits when, in reality - unless you're a mechanic - you'll only ever use it a handful of times.
Schermerhorn said:
Flaring kits are expensive. My suggestion is that you buy some copper pipe and take it to a garage along with your wheel cylinder and ask them to make you a brake pipe with the correct brake nut along with the correct flare (single or double, convex or concave).
Why invest in brake flaring kits when, in reality - unless you're a mechanic - you'll only ever use it a handful of times.
I didnt fancy stumping up the 400 quid repair bill at the time, in hindsight 50 quid to replace the lines wasn't so bad, the other 350 for two bushes and a back box was though.Why invest in brake flaring kits when, in reality - unless you're a mechanic - you'll only ever use it a handful of times.
This bugged me so I've got my flaring kit out of the garage!
1. Prep tube properly. cut of square, and make sure the inside is deburred properly. The instructions say to chamfer the outside, but I found the little wheel cutter did that for me.
2. The tube needs to be proud of the clamp bar by the thickness of the widest part of the adapter for the pipe you are using. (according to my calipers that's 3mm for the 3/16 pipe adapter). Tighten securely, starting with the wing nut nearest the tubing.
3. Place the adapter so that the stem fits into the tube, now place the yoke assembly so that it is all straight and with the pointed end of the swivel centred over the hole in the adapter.
4. Screw down hard until the adapter is now flush onto the clap bar.
5. Unscrew swivel and remove adapter.
6. Now screw swivel down again to double the flare back on itself.
All this is much easier with copper than alloy, but copper may only last 10 years or so.
Edited to add, if you are near Deddington, Oxon; I have a load of spare unions, but you could just cut them off the old pipe.
email me through profile if you wish.
1. Prep tube properly. cut of square, and make sure the inside is deburred properly. The instructions say to chamfer the outside, but I found the little wheel cutter did that for me.
2. The tube needs to be proud of the clamp bar by the thickness of the widest part of the adapter for the pipe you are using. (according to my calipers that's 3mm for the 3/16 pipe adapter). Tighten securely, starting with the wing nut nearest the tubing.
3. Place the adapter so that the stem fits into the tube, now place the yoke assembly so that it is all straight and with the pointed end of the swivel centred over the hole in the adapter.
4. Screw down hard until the adapter is now flush onto the clap bar.
5. Unscrew swivel and remove adapter.
6. Now screw swivel down again to double the flare back on itself.
All this is much easier with copper than alloy, but copper may only last 10 years or so.
Edited to add, if you are near Deddington, Oxon; I have a load of spare unions, but you could just cut them off the old pipe.
email me through profile if you wish.
Edited by Paul Drawmer on Sunday 21st March 13:40
Buy brake piping that is copper/nickel, I hink it's trade name is Kunifer, trying to make good flares with that tool and steel is going to be tricky.
If you have a vice, clamping the tool in that will also make life a bit easier, take your time and when you build the car back up pressure test the fittings by bleeding and thne get a helper to try and push the pedal through the floor while you watch for leaks.
If you have a vice, clamping the tool in that will also make life a bit easier, take your time and when you build the car back up pressure test the fittings by bleeding and thne get a helper to try and push the pedal through the floor while you watch for leaks.
CloakedBummer said:
I've been trying all afternoon and all I get are crap flares, I even tried on the bit of steel pipe that came off the car and it still does it!
I think the best solution is to scrap the car
If you're making crap flares then you either have a crap tool or havent read the earlier posts on how to do it. The flare you showed in the picture is a single flare and should be easy to make, can you post a picture of the results so far.I think the best solution is to scrap the car
TheLurker said:
I need to change the brake lines on the track car. They are steel as standard, but was thinking of changing them to copper/nickel pipe. Is there any disadvantage to doing this? or should they be steel?
Get conifer ones. Much more durable.Steel has long been replaced by copper/ conifer pipes.
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