|
Maty
Original Poster
846 posts
82 months
|
Less than 12 months ago we glossed all the wood work in the house (doors, door frames and skirting boards), a job I quite simply hated! In most places this has now turned a lovely shade of yellow that I would expect to see in a house occupied by someone smoking 200 fags a day. It therefore needs doing again, but what is the correct process? Last time we just gave everywhere a quick once over with some sand paper then set to it with the gloss, I understand some form of undercoat should have been used???
Or, are there any alternatives to using gloss that might stay white for longer, again what method should we use?
I don't mind doing the job again but it needs doing properly this time.
Thanks
|
|
|
Matt Black
420 posts
39 months
|
I use that white Matt paint, can't remember the name of it but it stays white.
|
|
|
Incredible Sulk
2,223 posts
64 months
|
I don't know the answer, but in our house white stays white in areas that get direct light, and turns yellow ish in areas that are 'internal' - we have a cloakroom and a couple o f bathrooms that don't have any windows and they have gone a sort of creamy colour.
I used Dulux throughout, so I'm pretty sure it isn't because I used crap paint.
|
|
|
Dave_ST220
7,722 posts
74 months
|
Matt Black said: I use that white Matt paint, can't remember the name of it but it stays white. egg shell?? Sure that stays white.....
|
|
|
Maty
Original Poster
846 posts
82 months
|
Do you have to undercoat first then, or just sand and paint??
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
Matt Black
420 posts
39 months
|
Na wasn't eggshell, I just went to the garage to check and it's 'Crown, pure brilliant white, satin'
It's water based so no problems really with fumes and cleaning brushes etc, it definitely stays whiter than Gloss and a light sand is all I done before painting, the only drawback I can see is if it's on banister hand rails or the kids forget to use door handles then it can get dirty quite quickly.
|
|
|
V8mate
34,924 posts
58 months
|
Maty said: Do you have to undercoat first then, or just sand and paint?? I always undercoat before gloss. It just seems to make such a difference to the finish. ETA: I think that's because it forms a barrier between the wood and the paint. This seems to stop the paint soaking into the wood and the wood 'staining' the paint.
|
|
|
Nolar Dog
8,786 posts
64 months
|
Matt Black said: brilliant white, satin That makes me laugh. 
|
|
|
Harry Flashman
9,354 posts
111 months
|
It's why the woodwork in my house is painted battleship grey.
Well, that and the fact that the grey looks really quite nice with the white walls and dark wood floors.
|
|
|
Vron
1,967 posts
78 months
|
Its the sun that keeps it white. Move a wardrobe etc away from the skirting and it will be yellow behind regardless of what paint you use.
|
|
|
callyman
2,612 posts
81 months
|
As said before, all/most oil based paints will yellow if deprived of natural daylight.
Acrylics on the other hand wont.
|
|
|
Phooey
6,102 posts
38 months
|
Vron said: Its the sun that keeps it white. Move a wardrobe etc away from the skirting and it will be yellow behind regardless of what paint you use. Yep, i painted my windowsill (south facing) in the office - gloss white about 12 months ago. I also use it as a shelf for letters e.t.c. The areas which have been covered up have now got a permanent yellow tinge. Doh!
|
|
|
Herbie58
1,684 posts
59 months
|
I can only assume that the wood had been treated by the previous occupants or builder. Which means the paint just soaks up the wood treatment and stain. No matter how many times you paint on top, it will keep turning yellow.
The only way to stop it is to put a primer/wood stain prevention treatment on prior to painting. You'll have to give the current paintwork a good sand. Then paint everything with the primer/stain stop, then you can paint it with gloss.
You can get the primer in B&Q or homebase - it's widely available
|
|
|
andy43
2,988 posts
123 months
|
Did the previous occupants have an incontinence problem that you're aware of?
|
|
|
dtmpower
2,977 posts
114 months
|
Is the finish just generally yellowed or is it yellow in spots ?
When reglossing I just tend to light sand and then use sugar soap to degrease.
A good quality liquid gloss should last several years.
If you have yellow spots then it might be the wood seeping sap through the paint. You can get a knot blocker to paint over these spots to block the sap.
|
|
|
Huntsman
3,594 posts
119 months
|
I'm an ex decorator.
Quick scuff with some scrath, wipe down with white spirit.
Undercoat and gloss. Try the 1 ltr tins of 'Dulux trade' they do in B and Q. I found it very good. Dont waste time with 'one coat wonder' paints or water based.
You'll always find gloss yellows a bit in time, the eggshells and satin finishes dont seem to suffer as much. Again avoid water based.
|
|
|
Raverbaby
731 posts
55 months
|
I found the "quick dry" gloss tends to stay white.
Its water based, as opposed to oil I think.
|
|
|
Phooey
6,102 posts
38 months
|
Thought i would resurrect this thread rather than starting another  I have 2 doors and frames to paint this weekend - white. Last time i used Dulux Liquid Gloss Professional, but after a year has started to 'yellow' in areas which do not get the natural daylight. The doors are bare wood, and the frames are white gloss currently. So, i understand i need to prime and undercoat the doors, and just undercoat the frames first. Any more recommendations for white paint that stays white? I like the coverage of gloss (used a small roller last time) but realise this *will* yellow. Would i be better using Dulux Satinwood (non waterbased)? The doors are just flush flat (non paneled), so i want to use a mini-roller again - i am under the impression that because of the cr4p coverage of water-based paints, this would/could be a problem - so would i be better off with non-waterbased to achieve a better finish. With these doors being flush non-paneled, i *need* the best finish possible. What do you guys recommend? Cheers
|
|
|
callyman
2,612 posts
81 months
|
Best way to get a flat finish on a flat door is to take to door off if poss and lay it flat, then use a fine roller, get it on reasonably thick and it will self level to some degree, that will give you a very good smooth finish.
|
|
|
xllifts
3,682 posts
72 months
|
Use permoglaze undercoat and gloss its acrylic and will last for ages. Bit expensive but worth every penny.
Remember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
|
|
