Engine oil extractors (vacuum)

Engine oil extractors (vacuum)

Author
Discussion

t84

6,941 posts

195 months

Thursday 8th July 2010
quotequote all
Isn't removing the sump plug more likely to allow for the drainage of swarf?

*Al*

3,830 posts

223 months

Thursday 8th July 2010
quotequote all
Cool but what about changing the filter?

Sixpackpert

4,577 posts

215 months

Thursday 8th July 2010
quotequote all
*Al* said:
Cool but what about changing the filter?
He did that.

ARH

1,222 posts

240 months

Thursday 8th July 2010
quotequote all
I have used one for years, makes life very easy. everyone says "I wouldn't use one 'cause it wont get the crud out." it will remove as much as a sump plug will let out. just try taking a sump of to find out what is left after draining

HAB

3,632 posts

228 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
t84 said:
Isn't removing the sump plug more likely to allow for the drainage of swarf?
I was thinking this too, a lot of sump plugs are magnetic, which means all the swarf attaches to it.

Is it so hard to drain the oil the conventional way? I'd rather have gravity on my side.

Kentish

15,169 posts

235 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
HAB said:
t84 said:
Isn't removing the sump plug more likely to allow for the drainage of swarf?
I was thinking this too, a lot of sump plugs are magnetic, which means all the swarf attaches to it.

Is it so hard to drain the oil the conventional way? I'd rather have gravity on my side.
Most sump plugs are magnetic so this is not a huge problem.

I'd advise a complete drain via sump every 3rd or 4th service though.

Probably better to have decent oil in spec and a bit of crap stuck to the sump plug than have old oil in there.

HAB

3,632 posts

228 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
Personally, I'd prefer to remove any swarf from the sump plug rather than let it potentially build up, with the chance of it maybe finding its way back into the oil galleries.



Edited by HAB on Friday 9th July 12:12

TonyRPH

13,011 posts

169 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
IMHO the only way to properly change oil, is to get the engine up to working temperature and then drain it from the sump plug.

Hot oil drains faster, and takes nearly all the crud with it.

In some cases an engine flush doesn't go amiss either.

I've known people to drain oil, refill with cheaper oil, drain that (after running the engine for a minute or two) and then refilling with the 'proper' oil.

And changing the filter(s) of course.


jon-

16,511 posts

217 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
All this worry about crud in the sump. They should really design engines with some sort of filtration device, something that could filter the oil and ensure and crud doesn't make it to the head and galleries...

I might patent this idea, and call it an "filtration canister for oil"

I hope it catches on.

HardToLove

520 posts

201 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
I thinks it a good idea for Alfa's as the drain plugs seem to be made of putty.

Escort2dr

3,619 posts

202 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
jon- said:
All this worry about crud in the sump. They should really design engines with some sort of filtration device, something that could filter the oil and ensure and crud doesn't make it to the head and galleries...

I might patent this idea, and call it an "filtration canister for oil"

I hope it catches on.
Quite.

I have used a Pela 3000 for servicing my daily car which covers 30K+ per annum and never had a problem. The last one reached 180K miles and there were no issues. It was also handy that the VW/Audi 1.9 and 2.0 TDis have the oil filter on the top of the engine so there is no need to scrabble about under the car, or removing the blessed undertray. Can have the whole thing done in no time, no mess, and no need to drag the ramps or jack/stands out.

Chester Drawers

402 posts

199 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
I wouldn't be so worried about crud collecting around the sump plug but I would be concerned about crud build up on the oil pick up in the sump, especially if it's one of those witha gauze covering.
Just my opinion but I would prefer to do it the old fashioned way and even remove the sump pan every couple of years to check everything is fine and dandy.

StevenJJ

541 posts

210 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
These are great IMO

Mercedes, Smart et al don't even come with a sump drain plug and VAG list a workshop oil extractor in their tools lineup. I doubt whether any car with FSH from a franchised dealer has ever had the oil dropped these days. Unless you know differently laugh

varsas

4,015 posts

203 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
StevenJJ said:
These are great IMO

Mercedes, Smart et al don't even come with a sump drain plug and VAG list a workshop oil extractor in their tools lineup. I doubt whether any car with FSH from a franchised dealer has ever had the oil dropped these days. Unless you know differently laugh
I'd be disappointed if Bristol don't...

jhfozzy

1,345 posts

191 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
My brothers vectra has a gearbox which is "sealed for life" and has no sump plug.

To drain the oil, you have to take the sump off completely (11 bolts from memory) and refill it via the reverse light switch.

Having one of these will mean he doesn't have to take the sump off next time, just remove the switch, drain and refill.

Cheers.

TonyRPH

13,011 posts

169 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
jon- said:
All this worry about crud in the sump. They should really design engines with some sort of filtration device, something that could filter the oil and ensure and crud doesn't make it to the head and galleries...

I might patent this idea, and call it an "filtration canister for oil"

I hope it catches on.
All oil filters have a bypass valve, so if the filtration element (usually paper) becomes clogged enough, the bypass valve opens to maintain the flow of (now unfiltered) oil.

Still think it's such a great idea?


Plotloss

67,280 posts

271 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
TonyRPH said:
jon- said:
All this worry about crud in the sump. They should really design engines with some sort of filtration device, something that could filter the oil and ensure and crud doesn't make it to the head and galleries...

I might patent this idea, and call it an "filtration canister for oil"

I hope it catches on.
All oil filters have a bypass valve, so if the filtration element (usually paper) becomes clogged enough, the bypass valve opens to maintain the flow of (now unfiltered) oil.

Still think it's such a great idea?
Not a lot of inboard boat engines have their sumps drained...

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

256 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
If you change your oil regularly enough (and this makes it very easy) then you shouldn't be getting "crud" building up in the sump.

This certainly isn't suitable for the people that think 20,000 mile service intervals are a good idea.

TonyRPH

13,011 posts

169 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
Plotloss said:
Not a lot of inboard boat engines have their sumps drained...
Do these engines suffer from the same issues are car engines, such as condensation build up etc?

Do they not run at pretty constant RPM as well?

Apart from the condensation issues, I'm sure they get as much crud in the sumps though - but maybe because they're not subjected to the same 'g' forces as a car, it's less likely that said crud will be picked up?


StevenJJ

541 posts

210 months

Friday 9th July 2010
quotequote all
varsas said:
StevenJJ said:
These are great IMO

Mercedes, Smart et al don't even come with a sump drain plug and VAG list a workshop oil extractor in their tools lineup. I doubt whether any car with FSH from a franchised dealer has ever had the oil dropped these days. Unless you know differently laugh
I'd be disappointed if Bristol don't...
Franchised Bristol dealer smile