Brake discs - vented vs grooved/drilled
Discussion
Hi there,
As I understand it drilled and grooved discs help to dissipate heat and reduce fade problems. If my Chimaera is a daily drive and only used for spirited street driving rather than track days and the brakes have never shown fade problems, will there be any advantage for me in swapping to drilled and grooved discs.
I am looking for better / sharper braking, so better to spend money on increasing disc size or number of pots in caliper ?
Cheers, Matt
As I understand it drilled and grooved discs help to dissipate heat and reduce fade problems. If my Chimaera is a daily drive and only used for spirited street driving rather than track days and the brakes have never shown fade problems, will there be any advantage for me in swapping to drilled and grooved discs.
I am looking for better / sharper braking, so better to spend money on increasing disc size or number of pots in caliper ?
Cheers, Matt
I, IMHO, suggest you stay away from drilled discs and their self-destruct cracking capability.
Just read further down the Chimaera thread to this:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Easy upgrade to larger discs and pads.
HTH
Trev
Just read further down the Chimaera thread to this:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Easy upgrade to larger discs and pads.
HTH
Trev
Hi Trev,
Yes read that one this morning which got me thinking.
How much of it is discs (size) and how much pads (friction grade and amount of heat required to work properly). If I had the funds, I'd try some different options and find the best but...
Have green-stuff pads at the moment but see one website only recommends red and yellow for the Chimaera. The greens produce low dust but they seem to need 2 or 3 hard applications before they really work well, which 'aint much use on a road car / daily driver with the occasional blast when traffic permits. Reds and Yellow used to be faster pads than greens which makes me think they'll be worse.
Cheers, Matt
Yes read that one this morning which got me thinking.
How much of it is discs (size) and how much pads (friction grade and amount of heat required to work properly). If I had the funds, I'd try some different options and find the best but...
Have green-stuff pads at the moment but see one website only recommends red and yellow for the Chimaera. The greens produce low dust but they seem to need 2 or 3 hard applications before they really work well, which 'aint much use on a road car / daily driver with the occasional blast when traffic permits. Reds and Yellow used to be faster pads than greens which makes me think they'll be worse.
Cheers, Matt
I've "gone" 283mm & 887/888 calipers, only 'cause I sprint & Hillclimb!!
In doing so, I now have better feel and reduced locking-up in "...OMG" situations.
If it aint broke and you are more that satisfied with what you have, then don't waste your money.
Hope that gives you some support in resisting "Peer-pressure"!!
Trev
In doing so, I now have better feel and reduced locking-up in "...OMG" situations.
If it aint broke and you are more that satisfied with what you have, then don't waste your money.
Hope that gives you some support in resisting "Peer-pressure"!!
Trev
Quinny said:
If it hasn't already been done, a nice little upgrade is to remove the old original, and by now, deteriorating brake lines
And replace with nice shiney, new stainless steel braided lines
I have been looking to upgrade as my brakes aren't as strong as they should be. On bone dry roads from 30mph, it is virtually impossible to lock up the tyres, which seems wrong. Still pretty quick at stopping but no lock up suggests they could be better.And replace with nice shiney, new stainless steel braided lines
I have suspicion that my calipers aren't quite right as pads tend to wear at the outer edges more than toward the centre of the disc (knackered slides?) and the disc doesn't quite sit central to the caliper.
If going to the cost of replacing calipers / slides, makes it worthwhile investigating upgrade options.
My objective is to get faster response of the brakes after a quick hard application followed by stronger braking force.
Matt
Hi last year before i upgraded to 300mm wilwoods i rebuilt the standard calipers all round new seals and new pistons easy and cheap to do i then used EBC yellow stuff which i really like and worked very well on a drilled only disc which i had no issues with what so ever and that was over 5000 hard miles round europe.
I would not spend the extra money on drilled or groved again as i did not notice any diffrence but the best thing as said are new disc pads and fluid and flexi lines will do the best and if needed a caliper over haul.
My big brake upgrade is by far the best thing i have done on my chim so much more control and smoothness over the standard set up.
I would not spend the extra money on drilled or groved again as i did not notice any diffrence but the best thing as said are new disc pads and fluid and flexi lines will do the best and if needed a caliper over haul.
My big brake upgrade is by far the best thing i have done on my chim so much more control and smoothness over the standard set up.
I had a problem with mine in that I couldn't lock them up and was getting uneven pad/disc contact. Turned out the carriers were clagged up with rust and other debris and the pads couldn't move freely. Cleaned them out and fitted Tarox G88 all round with some DS2500 pads and they were transformed (though I'm sure standard discs and pads would be just as good - I just like the look of the G88 discs ). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.
). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.Hi I have Goodridge hoses on with Drilled & Groved standard size all round.
Yes I do track days but mainly road driving.
I can out brake cerb tuscan and sags. I don't go for big brand name discs I get mine from Mtec100 on eBay. I change them every 2 years and at £150 for all 4 discs delivered they are great value But more importantly they work
Mintex 1144 pads and Dot 5.1 fluid is best I find.
You must remember discs are made to a legal standard they all comply to that standard the rest of the cost is down to the name branding.
My view anyway.
Colin L
Yes I do track days but mainly road driving.
I can out brake cerb tuscan and sags. I don't go for big brand name discs I get mine from Mtec100 on eBay. I change them every 2 years and at £150 for all 4 discs delivered they are great value But more importantly they work
Mintex 1144 pads and Dot 5.1 fluid is best I find.
You must remember discs are made to a legal standard they all comply to that standard the rest of the cost is down to the name branding.
My view anyway.
Colin L
Colin L said:
.
You must remember discs are made to a legal standard they all comply to that standard the rest of the cost is down to the name branding.
That's the theory, but as long as the onus is on the parts manufacturer to declare their product is of 'matching quality' to the OES product and given the shedloads of Chinese-sourced cr*p on the market (especially for mass market applications such as eh, Sierras, Escorts and Granadas) which BTW could well be packed in a box with a well-known brand on it, I will always rely on Brembo et al. You must remember discs are made to a legal standard they all comply to that standard the rest of the cost is down to the name branding.
simonej said:
I had a problem with mine in that I couldn't lock them up and was getting uneven pad/disc contact. Turned out the carriers were clagged up with rust and other debris and the pads couldn't move freely. Cleaned them out and fitted Tarox G88 all round with some DS2500 pads and they were transformed (though I'm sure standard discs and pads would be just as good - I just like the look of the G88 discs ). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.
When you say lines, do you mean the complete brake line from the master cylinder or just the flexible connections to the wheel hub ? I have stainless braided flexible hoses on the front but they are probably 8 years old by now.). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.Matt
taylormj4 said:
simonej said:
I had a problem with mine in that I couldn't lock them up and was getting uneven pad/disc contact. Turned out the carriers were clagged up with rust and other debris and the pads couldn't move freely. Cleaned them out and fitted Tarox G88 all round with some DS2500 pads and they were transformed (though I'm sure standard discs and pads would be just as good - I just like the look of the G88 discs ). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.
When you say lines, do you mean the complete brake line from the master cylinder or just the flexible connections to the wheel hub ? I have stainless braided flexible hoses on the front but they are probably 8 years old by now.). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.Matt
. I'm no expert but if you still have rubber hoses on the rear surely that will eat away at any improvement given by the braided front hoses? Before cleaning them up and getting the lines changed I was all set for a big brake conversion but once working as they should the standard brakes are perfectly adequate for my needs.
simonej said:
taylormj4 said:
simonej said:
I had a problem with mine in that I couldn't lock them up and was getting uneven pad/disc contact. Turned out the carriers were clagged up with rust and other debris and the pads couldn't move freely. Cleaned them out and fitted Tarox G88 all round with some DS2500 pads and they were transformed (though I'm sure standard discs and pads would be just as good - I just like the look of the G88 discs ). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.
When you say lines, do you mean the complete brake line from the master cylinder or just the flexible connections to the wheel hub ? I have stainless braided flexible hoses on the front but they are probably 8 years old by now.). I later had the lines replaced with braided and that massively improved the feel.Matt
. I'm no expert but if you still have rubber hoses on the rear surely that will eat away at any improvement given by the braided front hoses? Before cleaning them up and getting the lines changed I was all set for a big brake conversion but once working as they should the standard brakes are perfectly adequate for my needs.
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