Something to check: Anderson Connector

[Targarama]

Just a little note for the new owners. Make sure your car's Anderson Connector is not corroded or damaged. Mine was flagged up at service by Jason of Str8Six, I had them fix all the bits they flagged up apart from a few I knew I could do myself. A corroded Anderson Connector was straightforward enough. I ordered a new one from Steve Heath's website and fitted it this afternoon. Wheel off, battery disconnected and out, remove connector from earth strap/chassis and refit new one.

There are several threads, one by me, from around 18-24 months ago about the battery, cabling routing/chafing etc. Have a look at those too. Better this than have your car catch fire (or burn the house down).

Old connector - bit corroded and messy. I suppose it would have cleaned up if I spent some time on it. By the time I'd removed it I knew it would be easier to just install a new one.



Old vs new connector:



Finally, check the cover for your connector has some holes in the bottom to allow water to drain out.

[FactoryPilot]

My old T350C was delivered new from the factory without the anderson connector fitted. When I picked it up from the old Henley Heritage dealer, that Louise bird that used to work there just showed me how to break in if the battery was flat. I later fitted a hard-wired accumate charger kit, that I would just throw the lead out of and plug into a socket in my garage.

The excuse from Bristol Avenue as to why my car didn't have the connector fitted, was that 'they had run out'.... TVR. I really miss 'em

[shep1001]

I packed the top end (terminal) with silicone sealant. The reason being it should help hold the terminals apart if the connector breaks withage helping to reduce the posibility of a dead short

Shep

[rolex]

Good advice Tref, I found this out a couple of years back when my battery charger failed to work. Stupidly thinking it was a busted charger I bought a new one which also failed to work! Closer examination of the connector showed the same signs of corrosion. I took the easy way out and got an accumate which charges through the cig lighter.

[Targarama]

rolex said:

Good advice Tref, I found this out a couple of years back when my battery charger failed to work. Stupidly thinking it was a busted charger I bought a new one which also failed to work! Closer examination of the connector showed the same signs of corrosion. I took the easy way out and got an accumate which charges through the cig lighter.

Fine, but that isn't really why I posted. I assume you replaced the connector and checked all the cables in the battery box? Your corrosion isn't going to improve on its own, and the eventual results have been experienced on several T-cars, including being the suspected cause of TVR Power being gutted by fire.

[Tamster.]

Targarama said:

rolex said:

Good advice Tref, I found this out a couple of years back when my battery charger failed to work. Stupidly thinking it was a busted charger I bought a new one which also failed to work! Closer examination of the connector showed the same signs of corrosion. I took the easy way out and got an accumate which charges through the cig lighter.

Fine, but that isn't really why I posted. I assume you replaced the connector and checked all the cables in the battery box? Your corrosion isn't going to improve on its own, and the eventual results have been experienced on several T-cars, including being the suspected cause of TVR Power being gutted by fire.

Good work Targarama, see new connector is colour co-ordinated as well! Did you use the existing cabling with new lug's each end or new cabling throughout?

[shpub]

Targarama said:

I ordered a new one from Steve Heath's website and fitted it this afternoon.

A heavier duty version of these leads, specifically designed for the Tuscan/Tamora/T350/Sagaris, is now available.

[Targarama]

Tamster. said:

Targarama said:

rolex said:

Good advice Tref, I found this out a couple of years back when my battery charger failed to work. Stupidly thinking it was a busted charger I bought a new one which also failed to work! Closer examination of the connector showed the same signs of corrosion. I took the easy way out and got an accumate which charges through the cig lighter.

Fine, but that isn't really why I posted. I assume you replaced the connector and checked all the cables in the battery box? Your corrosion isn't going to improve on its own, and the eventual results have been experienced on several T-cars, including being the suspected cause of TVR Power being gutted by fire.

Good work Targarama, see new connector is colour co-ordinated as well! Did you use the existing cabling with new lug's each end or new cabling throughout?

I used the new connector and cables, no point in pulling it apart when you have to disconnect the old one anyway. BTW, my negative Anderson cable was connected to one of the chassis earths, the new connector cable has a smaller hole at the end and wouldn't fit - luckily I could just put it directly to the battery negative terminal.

One word of advice if you do replace yours - the factory 'fit' is to screw a pair of bolts through the holes in the connector to attach it to a tag on the battery bay, creating a thread as they went along (you'll see when you get it off). Quite tricky to make this thread on the new part without a vice and tools. I used a pair of new nuts/bolts cut to length.

[Targarama]

shpub said:

Targarama said:

I ordered a new one from Steve Heath's website and fitted it this afternoon.

A heavier duty version of these leads, specifically designed for the Tuscan/Tamora/T350/Sagaris, is now available.

FYI The one I removed appeared identical to the new one you supplied me a few weeks ago.

[Overseas]

Previous thread,

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... - Battery Charge Point

[shpub]

Targarama said:

shpub said:

Targarama said:

I ordered a new one from Steve Heath's website and fitted it this afternoon.

A heavier duty version of these leads, specifically designed for the Tuscan/Tamora/T350/Sagaris, is now available.

FYI The one I removed appeared identical to the new one you supplied me a few weeks ago.

The tuscan version uses several layers of special adhesive heat shrink that literally glues the cable to the sleeving and the connectors so that it has greater protection against water and corrosion. It also means that should the cable does corrode or come loose, it is still held in place and can't short out.

I also knock out the ID key on the connctor so it becomes a universal fit.