Welding Glass picture thread. (Random)
Discussion
Big thanks to AndyKH once again for send me the glass. Not once but twice no thanks to RoyalFail for smashing the first into a million peices.
Had a play with the 10stop welding glass plate on saturday. Sky was a complete white out so no chance of playing with the clouds just yet. So thought I'd pop down the stream to fire a few off and get my head around the technique.

Stream dream by Pixel-Snapper, on Flickr
It was really dark down the field to start with so had to ramp the ISO to get anything other than a black picture. Next investment will have to be a remote shutter release, tryed bulb by holding the button down with my finger but got too much vibration and it looked pap.
I know theres a few more out there with welding glass so come on show us your pictures.
Had a play with the 10stop welding glass plate on saturday. Sky was a complete white out so no chance of playing with the clouds just yet. So thought I'd pop down the stream to fire a few off and get my head around the technique.

Stream dream by Pixel-Snapper, on Flickr
It was really dark down the field to start with so had to ramp the ISO to get anything other than a black picture. Next investment will have to be a remote shutter release, tryed bulb by holding the button down with my finger but got too much vibration and it looked pap.
I know theres a few more out there with welding glass so come on show us your pictures.
At the moment very steptoe.
Started out with two elastic bands. One that went around the eyepeice and the other around the bottem of the camera, found that this wasn't secure enough so made a sausage of bluetack to go inbetween the glass and lens along with the laggy bands.
Found this to be adequate means of doing things, I was going to buy a adapter ring and glue the glass to it but this way I can change lens easyer if needs be.
As long as your gentle with it I cannot see it being a problem.
Good work Dave, I need a cable release really and I use the same setup as you.
Colour cast can be over come by using a custom white balance.
Easy to do with the canon 40d, you take a picture on a white peice of paper infront of the lens with the WGP on, then go into your settings menu and find the CWB setting, then select the image you've just taken and it doe's the rest for you.
Couldnt quite make out what body your shooting with but I'm sure there must be something similiar.

Welding Glass Plate by Pixel-Snapper, on Flickr
Colour cast can be over come by using a custom white balance.
Easy to do with the canon 40d, you take a picture on a white peice of paper infront of the lens with the WGP on, then go into your settings menu and find the CWB setting, then select the image you've just taken and it doe's the rest for you.
Couldnt quite make out what body your shooting with but I'm sure there must be something similiar.

Welding Glass Plate by Pixel-Snapper, on Flickr
A couple of mine

8 SWP Welding glass by sinky 911, on Flickr

8 SWP Welding glass by sinky 911, on Flickr
I Blutack the glass to a Cokin P series adaptor


8 SWP Welding glass by sinky 911, on Flickr

8 SWP Welding glass by sinky 911, on Flickr
I Blutack the glass to a Cokin P series adaptor

Edited by JSS 911 on Monday 21st February 17:53
I used the Cokin P adapter ring for mine - bought a spare bit of welding glass as they are so cheap and a spare adapter ring (e.g. here for £1.99 off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/72mm-Adapter-Ring-Filter-Hol... ) and superglued them together so absolutely no light leaks. I had been doing the elastic band technique previously but had issues in bright sun sometimes.
HTH
HTH
Pixel-Snapper said:
Next investment will have to be a remote shutter release, tryed bulb by holding the button down with my finger but got too much vibration and it looked pap.
I know theres a few more out there with welding glass so come on show us your pictures.
I was about to say, try sticking the camera on a tripod/something sturdy and using the self timer option to eliminate any wobble when pressing the button. However this will limit you to using the slowest setable shutter speed (max 30 seconds iirc on the 500D, yours may be different.)I know theres a few more out there with welding glass so come on show us your pictures.
First attempt. Need to avoid shooting at the sun to get a longer exposure to really smooth the water out and smear the clouds.

PIC_0628 - Version 2 by Ethel of Buzzez, on Flickr

PIC_0628 - Version 2 by Ethel of Buzzez, on Flickr
Xerstead said:
I was about to say, try sticking the camera on a tripod/something sturdy and using the self timer option to eliminate any wobble when pressing the button. However this will limit you to using the slowest setable shutter speed (max 30 seconds iirc on the 500D, yours may be different.)
Yes both shots I posted where at 30secs on a tripod, which is the longest you can go without then using bulb. Which is why I had to leave it on 30secs at f4 and up the iso to 1600 to get anything to come out, which is also the reason for the amount of noise.I could of easily got the same shots without the welding glass at a much better quality but that would be defeating the object of the exercise.
james_tigerwoods said:
I'm loving these - where can I get some glass from and is there a "guide" for how to use it?
James, go to Machine Mart or any of the welding supplies factors, the numbering of the welding glass does not directly relate to a ND10, the nearest is generally the No8 glass whilst the No10 is approx ND12-14 sort of levelThey will only cost a couple of quid
YB
Yellabelly said:
james_tigerwoods said:
I'm loving these - where can I get some glass from and is there a "guide" for how to use it?
James, go to Machine Mart or any of the welding supplies factors, the numbering of the welding glass does not directly relate to a ND10, the nearest is generally the No8 glass whilst the No10 is approx ND12-14 sort of levelThey will only cost a couple of quid
YB
I'll do just that - Thanks 
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