AJP Rebuild Costs
AJP Rebuild Costs
Author
Discussion

Wocka

Original Poster:

86 posts

208 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Hello,

Do any of you have experiance with AJP rebuilds? I'm talking parts and machining only, I'd do all the fun bits.

The engine in question is on 90K and has no reported faults.

Any experiance of cost and wear to similar milage engines would be apreceated.

Cheers

Gazzab

21,572 posts

306 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Wocka said:
Hello,

Do any of you have experiance with AJP rebuilds? I'm talking parts and machining only, I'd do all the fun bits.

The engine in question is on 90K and has no reported faults.

Any experiance of cost and wear to similar milage engines would be apreceated.

Cheers
The parts and machining are not expensive. So if you are doing it yourself then its cheap as chips.

Wocka

Original Poster:

86 posts

208 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Sweet. Are there any specialized tools needed?

Where should I look for parts?

Ireland

3,517 posts

238 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
There is a fairly recent thread on here offering copies of the AJP rebuild manual.

That should help re procedures / tolerances / etc.

HarryW

15,844 posts

293 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Loads of pictures of 'longbows' rebuild here http://rides.webshots.com/album/212016964dytUsY I think I'm right in thinking he did a lot of the stripping etc but got someone else to put bits of the lump together too. Handy pictures non-the-less.

a1rak

556 posts

207 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
Wocka said:
Hello,

Do any of you have experiance with AJP rebuilds? I'm talking parts and machining only, I'd do all the fun bits.

The engine in question is on 90K and has no reported faults.

Any experiance of cost and wear to similar milage engines would be apreceated.

Cheers
It depends on what you think is expensive and what you want and find when you strip your engine.
I would recommend using TVR power for all your parts, excellent service every time.
Crank Regrind with bearings £350ish
Liners £40.00 each if required so £320
New total seal rings £200 or
New pistons not sure £90 each may be so £720
gaskets and sealer £200
valve guides £7.00ish each
Oil water pump overhaul £500
head skims £60.00 for two
timing chain not sure £30.00
get the engine balanced £160
Check every dimension and take nothing for granted although if your car has covered the 90K it must be a good basic engine.

also worth considering doing
new clutch £400
clutch slave cylinder £200

Upgraded Parts? Then it gets expensive, but if u are a typical Cerb owner the temptation to upgrade is always there!
light flywheel, ported flowed heads, manifolds... £1500 upwards

good luck its not a difficult engine to work.





But most important of all



Wocka

Original Poster:

86 posts

208 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
So for a full rebuild I'm looking at 2.5k before upgrades... that's pissed on my fire a lil bit frown

Cheers for the info

itiejim

1,822 posts

229 months

Sunday 27th March 2011
quotequote all
I did mine for about £3.5k - worked out to around £1k machining / balancing and the rest parts.

Still cheaper than getting someone else to do it and infinitely more satisfying!

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

236 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
a1rak said:
Crank Regrind with bearings £350ish
Liners £40.00 each if required so £320
New total seal rings £200 or
New pistons not sure £90 each may be so £720
Gaskets and sealer £200 -£250
valve guides £7.00ish each
Oil water pump overhaul £500
head skims £60.00 for two
timing chain not sure £30.00 £50-65
Get the engine balanced £160 I was quoted £400-500 for bottom end balance

also worth considering doing
new clutch £400
clutch slave cylinder £200 £300 for upgraded Raceproved one
If your valve buckets (cam followers) are worn, they are £20-25 each. If you replace the set that's another £350.
Reconditioning fuel injectors? Not sure how much that it is.


Also put aside £100 or so for helicoils. I did a bit of engine work recently and found half the threads for the cam covers and the timing cover to be next to useless.

fatjon

2,298 posts

237 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
Crank Regrind with bearings £140 (they are bog standard rover V8 bearings)
Liners £320
pistons rarely needed, the rings and liners are the wearing parts but if they are then £700 plus
Head gaskets £100
Front and rear oil seals £30
valve guides £7.00ish each
Oil water pump overhaul £50 if you do it yourself (see Cerbera equivalent parts thread if you don't want skanking)
Oil pump new rotors £50
head skims £60.00 for two
timing chain £60 with new tensioner from TVR power
get the engine balanced £100 from my local place
Cams (if needed, probably not needed) £250/pair


Of course there are eventualities that can come to light during the job but it's not a hard engine to work on if you get hold of a copy of the build manual.


buy an M8 and M10 helicoil kit, you are going to need it, thats another £100.


Edited by fatjon on Tuesday 29th March 09:52

jammy_basturd

29,778 posts

236 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
If you've got a V8 then head gaskets are over £100 each, so at least £200 in total.

Just out of interest, you say £30 for overhauling the pumps. When I rang Grantura Engineering they said that the pumps have to be taken apart on jigs? If this isn't the case then it looks like that is going to be the next thing on my list!

itiejim

1,822 posts

229 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
If you don't use a jig then you risk breaking the impeller as you dismantle the pump - though of course you may be fine!

Grantura did mine, the other thing they do is to heat the pump to working temperature before testing it both before and after rebuild. This way you can be sure that it works properly and doesn't leak before it goes back in - remember it's an engine out job to change it.

I was very happy with the service and price they gave and understand that they are used by several of the big TVR specialists.

fatjon

2,298 posts

237 months

Tuesday 29th March 2011
quotequote all
the pumps don't need any kind of jig. Just a good puller and a bit of heat on the water impellers. They are smeared with loctite during assembly and are hard to pull off when cold which risks breaking them. once heated up they come off dead easy. In the engine build manual they are hand assembled without any special tools and I did mine that way in less than 2 hours. The bearings and seals are off the shelf items and cost peanuts. head gaskets have gone up a bit since I last looked, 83.00 now from Clever Trevor. Got some nice copper ones from Ferriday for about 3 or 400 Last year.