Wiring diagram for back of v-belt driven alternator??
Discussion
I have a 93 Chimaera that is pre serp and have recently had the alternator checked as have a drain somewhere that flattens the battery and their test rig says it's fine which thought it should be as I replaced both regulator and rectifier 5 years ago. So here is photos of the alternator and it's connections hope they help:-
A parasitic drain cam be anything from a faulty relay to a faulty head unit , you need to investigate further Inc the milliamps the vehicle is drawing key out engine off, not going to explain here lots of accurate Utube videos on the subject for you Inc how to isolate rotating electronics for example
Interior light relay was removed by X-Works when they serviced it before it went into winter storage in York s didn't want to drive it down through Europe in the winter and I flew over to collect the following April in time for the Burleigh House meet 2018. They removed it so it would not be a drain while in storage and I have never found where they put it or replaced it.
The interior light relay can be replaced by a simple bridging wire, which does away with the delay, but is supposed to be a good way to eliminate that particular drain...
As for wiring diagrams, I have one set from Steve_D, which may or may not be useful. It's also on the Facebook Chim & Griff Technical page under 'files'.
PM me if you can't find it, I'll email it to you.
As for wiring diagrams, I have one set from Steve_D, which may or may not be useful. It's also on the Facebook Chim & Griff Technical page under 'files'.
PM me if you can't find it, I'll email it to you.
Thxs Pablo! A readable wiring diagram would be very useful. Let me know if you need my Email addy to send the diagram.
I just need to know what color wires attach to each terminal on the back of the alternator. In particular these two smaller wires:
-Brown with yellow stripe
-Black
I thought the smaller Brown with yellow stripe was to be hot (12v) only when the key is on with ignition, but mine is not live.
My Ignition/charge dash light between the tach & speedo is on all the time even when the engine is running.
All the other alternator wires go to the hot (+) post on the back of the alternator.
Right now I'm only getting 12 volts on the dash volt gauge, so no charging......
I just need to know what color wires attach to each terminal on the back of the alternator. In particular these two smaller wires:
-Brown with yellow stripe
-Black
I thought the smaller Brown with yellow stripe was to be hot (12v) only when the key is on with ignition, but mine is not live.
My Ignition/charge dash light between the tach & speedo is on all the time even when the engine is running.
All the other alternator wires go to the hot (+) post on the back of the alternator.
Right now I'm only getting 12 volts on the dash volt gauge, so no charging......
Brown/Yellow is usually the charge warning circuit but you say yours is lit which suggests there is juice there.
This wire is grounded until the Alternator starts charging.
I would check to see if you have a 100 Amp fuse in the Alternator large battery cable situated under the car, a quick voltage check at the large terminal will tell you quickly if its intact but the fuse needs to be examined anyway for hairline cracks.
Worth changing it anyway as part of maintenance.
This wire is grounded until the Alternator starts charging.
I would check to see if you have a 100 Amp fuse in the Alternator large battery cable situated under the car, a quick voltage check at the large terminal will tell you quickly if its intact but the fuse needs to be examined anyway for hairline cracks.
Worth changing it anyway as part of maintenance.
Normally 2 heavy brown wires are the charge out from the alt.
The brown/yellow goes to the charge light and as you say should be live with ignition on. The alternator earths this wire to put the light on then puts +12v on the terminal when it is charging. The light then has +12V coming at it from both sides so does not light. A dim charge light is because one side of the bulb is seeing a lower voltage than the other.
There is a black wire which connects to the body of the alternator which is (in typical TVR logic) the earth for the cooling fan switch (Otter switch).
Steve
PS. best contact me direct for the diagrams as I am amending them on a regular basis. I was not aware my diagrams were on facebook i.e. nobody asked me.
The brown/yellow goes to the charge light and as you say should be live with ignition on. The alternator earths this wire to put the light on then puts +12v on the terminal when it is charging. The light then has +12V coming at it from both sides so does not light. A dim charge light is because one side of the bulb is seeing a lower voltage than the other.
There is a black wire which connects to the body of the alternator which is (in typical TVR logic) the earth for the cooling fan switch (Otter switch).
Steve
PS. best contact me direct for the diagrams as I am amending them on a regular basis. I was not aware my diagrams were on facebook i.e. nobody asked me.
Steve, my issue is that the Ignition/charging light is on/ illuminated, but the Brown/yellow wire that attaches to the Alternator is NOT LIVE when the key is in the "run" position and the engine is not running. That then means the alternator/rectifier is not getting "activated" and therefore no alternator output which is what the dash volt gauge is showing ( 12volts , not 14v....), correct?
I'm assuming the Ignition light must be getting getting grounded "somewhere" as it's illuminated with the key to "run / ignition on" but engine not running & the brown yellow is NOT live at the alternator.
I think I could bypass the ignition dash light completely & run a separate wire direct from the + side of the coil to the alternator terminal that the brown yellow wire attaches to feed the alternator 12v with the key on & then start the engine to see if the dash volt meter then shows 14v or see if the battery is then getting 14v across it's terminals with the engine running? Correct?
Thxs for your help / advice!
I'm assuming the Ignition light must be getting getting grounded "somewhere" as it's illuminated with the key to "run / ignition on" but engine not running & the brown yellow is NOT live at the alternator.
I think I could bypass the ignition dash light completely & run a separate wire direct from the + side of the coil to the alternator terminal that the brown yellow wire attaches to feed the alternator 12v with the key on & then start the engine to see if the dash volt meter then shows 14v or see if the battery is then getting 14v across it's terminals with the engine running? Correct?
Thxs for your help / advice!
Rather than a patch lead from ign. to alternator use a 5watt bulb in circuit that way you should see the bulb light when you put the ignition on and go out when you start the engine. Along with the volt meter you will have proved the the charge circuit is working.
Then you need to find the circuit fault which I'm suspecting will be behind the dash at the lamp. The lamp should have a green wire and the brown/yellow.
Steve
Then you need to find the circuit fault which I'm suspecting will be behind the dash at the lamp. The lamp should have a green wire and the brown/yellow.
Steve
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