Mercedes: The unseen Ebay purchase...
Discussion
Sheepshanks said:
I guess the van would warm up quicker than a car due to its extra wind resistance, but on my 2004 C270CDi it'd be well into the teens of miles of rolling driving before it was up to normal temp, 85C. Once there it wouldn't budge. I had the car from nearly new and it was always the same.
That had a hefty electric booster heater - it had to to be set to auto in the dash and then it worked if the temp was 8C or less. It only worked when the car was moving due to the current it took (aorund 150 amps - car had a water cooled alternator). I think Sprinters were often fitted with diesel auxiliary heaters. Both these systems are somewhat iffy so even if you have one or the other it's unlikely they'll still be working.
I'm pretty sure I've got the aux diesel heater. There's a box with coolant pipes and a small exhaust in the passengers front corner under the bonnet. I'll test that soon! That had a hefty electric booster heater - it had to to be set to auto in the dash and then it worked if the temp was 8C or less. It only worked when the car was moving due to the current it took (aorund 150 amps - car had a water cooled alternator). I think Sprinters were often fitted with diesel auxiliary heaters. Both these systems are somewhat iffy so even if you have one or the other it's unlikely they'll still be working.
I reckon the dash needs to come apart as I'm not sure the heat selector control does anything. Maybe the cable isn't on the flap in the heater matrix any more. Either way, hopefully it's a simple fix as it gets a bit cold when driving for any length of time.
Mr Tidy said:
A slightly alternative thread - great!
I had a part-time job delivering online shopping in 2011 in a Sprinter box van and they don't hang about, although ours had speed limiters sadly.
Looking forward to the updates.
Mines limited too. The sticker under the clocks says 75mph which translates to about 78 on the clock. It doesn't Hang around either for a big van!I had a part-time job delivering online shopping in 2011 in a Sprinter box van and they don't hang about, although ours had speed limiters sadly.
Looking forward to the updates.
Mr Tidy said:
They do get going pretty well, but sadly ours had a 56mph limiter. 
That must be annoying. I had to run at 60 in fourth on the motorway last week as 5th gear went AWOL and that was bad enough! Turns out the clip I lost in the dash when changing gear shifters meant the cable didn't move fully... I had to dig it out and fit it 
B'stard Child said:
Well that was a surprise - I was expecting something smaller 
Hey ho
Bookmarked because all your threads are worth reading
PS Mrs BC is yet again going on about me converting a van to a camper van - I really can't be arsed but well van thread = research so no whinging from Mrs BC
Hey ho
Bookmarked because all your threads are worth reading
PS Mrs BC is yet again going on about me converting a van to a camper van - I really can't be arsed but well van thread = research so no whinging from Mrs BC
Cheers!A van would definitely be a worthy addition to your fleet, though if you make a camper van I think you should make all the bits removable so you can use it as a van too. Best of both worlds then.
hyphen said:
Checked the MOT history of your new purchase, and has been run as a shed for a while as expected
Congrats and yes, keep the updates coming.
You should see the MOT history of some of the Transits I was looking at originally! The Sprinter has a positively glowing history in comparison. Actually, that was one of the reasons I put a bid on it - it might look rusty on the outside but it's never failed an MOT on rust. Most of the other bits that were picked up were average things for an old van so I'm happy with that.Congrats and yes, keep the updates coming.
Excellent. If I could have a petrol one I probably would just for the bonus points of rarity. Having said that, I quite like the 2.1 diesel in mine. Obviously I'd prefer the 160bhp flavour diesel but this one does the job well.
Edit: @hyphen. I stand slightly corrected on it not failing an MOT on rust. It did fail one because a rear wheel arch and a front wing were likely to cause injury through corrosion but they're not structural so it doesn't count
Edit: @hyphen. I stand slightly corrected on it not failing an MOT on rust. It did fail one because a rear wheel arch and a front wing were likely to cause injury through corrosion but they're not structural so it doesn't count
Edited by Gallons Per Mile on Thursday 10th February 07:45
Just a quick bump to say I'm off for a 400 mile round trip tomorrow to pick up the correct bulkhead for the van rather than continue with the homebrew wooden one with sharp ends of screws sticking out of it in to the cab. It's the first time ever I've fuelled up and the £99 limit was hit before the tank was full 
It took another £12 after that to brim it... Ouch!
It took another £12 after that to brim it... Ouch!Update time! The trip above went well, apart from it being SO COLD in the van with the heater still not working. The thermostat definitely wasn't right as it took about 45 miles of driving for it to come up nearly to running temp. Time to get the heater sorted once and for all. I've got another long trip to do to pick up some more furniture, and that'll be the spare room ready for guests next week. I'm not doing that in the freezing cold again!
The thermostat is in plain sight but a little bit fiddly to replace as there's a bit of wiring loom that needs to be moved and a couple of fuel pipes. Once I removed the hard fuel line it was suddenly much easier. The oil filter needed to be removed for access too. It's wrapped up in the rag on top of the engine!
New stat in its snug position:
Oil filter housing blocked off with left hand rag. Intercooler blocked off with right hang rag. No way I wanted anything untoward getting lost in those:
Various bits that needed to be removed. Quite a straightforward job really. Everything else I've done so far on this van has been really straightforward. I think it might have been designed with maintenance in mind
Next thing to do was work out why, now that the van runs at perfect temperatures, was I still getting no heat in the cab. The temperature dial on the heater controls definitely felt like it was connected to something, but it also didn't feel right. Lets take it apart then! Five minutes with a T20 torx and the dash looked like this:
I found that the cable controlling the flap on the heater matrix was bent when in the hot position. I unclipped it from the dial mechanism and was able to bend it straight and reconnect it so it worked as intended. Fully cold setting:
Fully hot setting without a massive bend in the cable:
A quick test drive proved we hat heat in the cab now
I did a bonus fix while I was there too. The lighting on the dials wasn't very good and I discovered one of the two bulbs that lights the panel was broken. I found a couple of spares at my local motor factors for £2 and replaced them. I had to break the seal below, so the bulbs I replaced were the originals:
Two working bulbs:
Except... the dials are still dark when they should be illuminated. The spare bulbs I bought were physically shorter than the originals so my guess is they don't throw the light along the plastic tubing that goes over the bulbs to route the light around the panel. I've had a look around online and found the OEM Lucas bulbs for £4 so I've ordered those and will replace in the near future.
More adventures coming soon, with added warmth on cold days now
The thermostat is in plain sight but a little bit fiddly to replace as there's a bit of wiring loom that needs to be moved and a couple of fuel pipes. Once I removed the hard fuel line it was suddenly much easier. The oil filter needed to be removed for access too. It's wrapped up in the rag on top of the engine!
New stat in its snug position:
Oil filter housing blocked off with left hand rag. Intercooler blocked off with right hang rag. No way I wanted anything untoward getting lost in those:
Various bits that needed to be removed. Quite a straightforward job really. Everything else I've done so far on this van has been really straightforward. I think it might have been designed with maintenance in mind
Next thing to do was work out why, now that the van runs at perfect temperatures, was I still getting no heat in the cab. The temperature dial on the heater controls definitely felt like it was connected to something, but it also didn't feel right. Lets take it apart then! Five minutes with a T20 torx and the dash looked like this:
I found that the cable controlling the flap on the heater matrix was bent when in the hot position. I unclipped it from the dial mechanism and was able to bend it straight and reconnect it so it worked as intended. Fully cold setting:
Fully hot setting without a massive bend in the cable:
A quick test drive proved we hat heat in the cab now
I did a bonus fix while I was there too. The lighting on the dials wasn't very good and I discovered one of the two bulbs that lights the panel was broken. I found a couple of spares at my local motor factors for £2 and replaced them. I had to break the seal below, so the bulbs I replaced were the originals:
Two working bulbs:
Except... the dials are still dark when they should be illuminated. The spare bulbs I bought were physically shorter than the originals so my guess is they don't throw the light along the plastic tubing that goes over the bulbs to route the light around the panel. I've had a look around online and found the OEM Lucas bulbs for £4 so I've ordered those and will replace in the near future.
More adventures coming soon, with added warmth on cold days now
Wow. Over a year since an update and I hadn't realised at all.
So, how's the ruined Sprinter doing? What's been going on in the last year? Carry on reading to find out!
I did a few maintenance jobs just to keep the mechanicals sweet. It had clearly had minimal maintenance for a while so really I was just catching up on bits and pieces that needed attention. First up was to look at an oil leak. The front of the engine was covered in oil so it wasn't very easy to see what was going on, but the vacuum pump looked suspicious. It's easy to remove so I whipped it off and discovered the O-ring was well past it:
A new O-ring later and we were back in business. I bought some scaffold so I could get up to roof height and inspect stuff:
The coolant light kept appearing on the dash. I had a proper look at the radiator and it looked very much on borrowed time, so I ordered the biggest box I could:
Contents: one radiator!
The easiest way to remove the rad was the strip the front end down slightly:
Yep, that was toast:
With the front end of the engine bare it seemed like a good time to jet wash as much oil leak off as possible. Things were looking a bit rough:
A bit cleaner now!
I found the crank seal to be kaput too and had to replace it:
With those bits sorted it was time for some work. I've been removing tons of bricks in the form of old chimney stacks that were dangerously loose. The Sprinter was the perfect vehicle to throw bricks in to and not care at all about the mess made! I found a local company that takes bricks/concrete in for free so it didn't even cost anything to get rid of rubbish
The digger in this pic came very close to the van several times while picking tons of stuff from the pile. I definitely wouldn't want to be doing this in a van/car I was remotely worried about! The operator obviously knew what he was doing, but still, one slip of a finger and I get a convertible van!
That takes us right up to the start of this year. Everything was going marvellously until I realised it was MOT time and the Sprinter was looking particularly tired in the bodywork front. The rust had taken hold and definitely worsened in the short time I'd owned it. I threw it in for an MOT with a whole reel of gaffer tape to cover up sharp edges and rusty bits to see what would happen. Of course the inevitable fail sheet greeted me when I got back to the garage. I sent it to a local MB specialist because it needed an ABS fault fixing before it could be MOT'd to get rid of some lights on the dash that had appeared months earlier and I'd done nothing about... The reason the ABS was giving faults was because the earth wire for it was attached to thin air. The wire itself hadn't been cut or anything, the van had dissolved around the point it bolts to the inner wing
It was decision time. Scrap the van or learn how to weld? The mechanical fail points were easy enough to sort, so I chose learning how to use my welder properly, of course! The cost of the parts to fix everything wasn't that much, it was just going to be a big investment in time and effort. I didn't realise quite how long this was going to take and it turned in to a marathon, but that was mostly due to having to work outside in the garden and a large part of Feb/March this year was solid rain which totally stopped play.
I started having a dig around one of the MOT fail points on the bodywork to discover someone had been there before. Lots of filler covering up a rusty hole...
And a very rusty wheel arch:
Which led to this:
The state of the panel I cut out!
While I pondered how best to tackle the bodywork I did some of the mechanical bits. The advisory for an oil leak was strange, as I'd sorted those out above. The leak was actually diesel, and it was coming out of the high pressure fuel pump at a rate of knots! This must have only just occurred as I think it would've caused a failure to proceed very soon. Off with the pump!
And here it is on the bench. Luckily you can buy seal kits on Ebay for not a lot of cash:
I exploded it with the help of my little Snap On impact wrench. It might be small but it really packs a punch for its size!
The cam lobe inside the pump. Pretty good for almost 300k miles, I'd say:
I ended up rebuilding it twice due to not discovering all of the seals first time around and still having a leak. Second time worked a treat though.
On to the handbrake issue. It wasn't good enough for Mr MOT Tester. I checked the mechanism was all free and working properly, which it was, it it was just a case of adjusting it correctly and that made a big difference. I like fixes that are free!
Back to the white elephant that is the huge amount of bodywork that still needed to be fixed. Panels were cut, welds were made, grinders were broken, replaced and used in anger.
The pic below was my first attempt at serious welding. It wasn't the best but certainly good enough for this job. I got better as I went!
I made a slight cutting error here and had to weld up a cut line on the piece of arch I wanted to keep as it wasn't actually rotten at all! Oops...
This big patch was required because I'm pretty sure a bus reversed in to the side here. There was rust anyway, but not a rusty dented hole... Soon fixed with a grinder, hammer and welder!
Now for the bit I was least confident about, at least to start with. I stripped down the front corner that was completely rotten and started cutting:
I used a lot of CAD (cardboard aided design) for this. It seemed to work best as several patches that could be shaped with a hammer and welded together on the van:
This is someone's bodge attempt at covering up a nice gouge in the side of the van. It hadn't quite gone through the metal but was pretty close. It was just a load of filler, so I ground it all back to assess what needed to be done, and dealt with the worst of it via a big patch of new metal:
I wasn't originally going to do much with the sliding door, but it really did need some new metal gluing in place:
The front inner wing had a small bit cut out too:
Here's the earlier bus damage partially welded:
I used a lot of Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 all over the van. It brushes on a light blue colour, turns dark blue and then black as it dries. Hopefully it'll help protect the metal. Most of this inner wing was left out in the rain completely bare because I'd weld until the weather closed in. There wasn't any other way of doing it:
The broken auxiliary heater used to live in that rusty corner of the engine bay. I removed it as it didn't work and removed the two hard coolant pipes that ran down the inner wing to meet it too. They were on their last legs anyway. As the coolant system was completely apart it seemed like a good idea to fit a new water pump 'while I'm here'.
You can see the new bypass pipe I put on which removed the need for the metal pipes feeding the aux heater. It's the one running from the small electric pump bending up to above the engine. I believe the pump is there to allow flow around the heater matrix as it seems to be the highest point in the system. Also it would've been needed when the aux heater was working to pump the coolant around the circuit when the engine was off - I think the aux heater could be used this way, but correct me if I'm wrong!
With some wax over the fresh painted welds too, I reassembled the now pristine front corner of the engine bay:
The underside of that welding got seam sealed as it's in the wheel arch. As did pretty much everything else around the sills. It's not quite a factory finish but it doesn't look too bad:
I even got some filler out to smooth the ground back bodywork around the welds, not that it made it look any less terrible!
A quick and dirty rattle-can job later:
Here's the driver's side:
Welding finished now? NOPE!
Rear wheel arch tubs had gone in three places on each side. They got welded, seam sealed on the outside and a quick spray of schutz on the inside:
We must be nearly done with the welding now, right? Erm, well almost...
Passenger door work:
I cut the inner repair panel slightly too small so when I folder the outer over it, it didn't quite grip at the bottom. Some spot welds sorted that out but it didn't look as good as I wanted it to. I tried slightly harder with the driver's door, and if I say so myself, it came out pretty well. I should definitely have just done this with the passenger door:
With minimal filler work I had a pretty respectable job on the driver's door. With a small amount more effort I think you wouldn't be able to tell I'd actually replaced the door bottom at all, but it's not that kind of van so 'good enough' is how it'll stay on the bodywork front!
I even took the wood panels off the inside of the van so I could spray some cavity wax over everything and not worry about rust for a while longer. It should last me the rest of my house renovation which I'm slowly plodding through now.
Time for MOT #2. Three months after the initial fail I dropped it off at the local MOT station rather than use the MB specialist is it was a half hour drive away, and went to cry in to my fry up in the nearest greasy spoon in anticipation of yet another fail for something I'd not noticed. An hour later I was met with great success. The MOT man was very happy with all the work and even complimented me on a good job all around. He noticed I'd sorted some of the advisories too. Which was nice.
It might looked absolutely battered still, but it drives well and is mechanically and bodily sound now. Happy days!
So, how's the ruined Sprinter doing? What's been going on in the last year? Carry on reading to find out!
I did a few maintenance jobs just to keep the mechanicals sweet. It had clearly had minimal maintenance for a while so really I was just catching up on bits and pieces that needed attention. First up was to look at an oil leak. The front of the engine was covered in oil so it wasn't very easy to see what was going on, but the vacuum pump looked suspicious. It's easy to remove so I whipped it off and discovered the O-ring was well past it:
A new O-ring later and we were back in business. I bought some scaffold so I could get up to roof height and inspect stuff:
The coolant light kept appearing on the dash. I had a proper look at the radiator and it looked very much on borrowed time, so I ordered the biggest box I could:
Contents: one radiator!
The easiest way to remove the rad was the strip the front end down slightly:
Yep, that was toast:
With the front end of the engine bare it seemed like a good time to jet wash as much oil leak off as possible. Things were looking a bit rough:
A bit cleaner now!
I found the crank seal to be kaput too and had to replace it:
With those bits sorted it was time for some work. I've been removing tons of bricks in the form of old chimney stacks that were dangerously loose. The Sprinter was the perfect vehicle to throw bricks in to and not care at all about the mess made! I found a local company that takes bricks/concrete in for free so it didn't even cost anything to get rid of rubbish
The digger in this pic came very close to the van several times while picking tons of stuff from the pile. I definitely wouldn't want to be doing this in a van/car I was remotely worried about! The operator obviously knew what he was doing, but still, one slip of a finger and I get a convertible van!
That takes us right up to the start of this year. Everything was going marvellously until I realised it was MOT time and the Sprinter was looking particularly tired in the bodywork front. The rust had taken hold and definitely worsened in the short time I'd owned it. I threw it in for an MOT with a whole reel of gaffer tape to cover up sharp edges and rusty bits to see what would happen. Of course the inevitable fail sheet greeted me when I got back to the garage. I sent it to a local MB specialist because it needed an ABS fault fixing before it could be MOT'd to get rid of some lights on the dash that had appeared months earlier and I'd done nothing about... The reason the ABS was giving faults was because the earth wire for it was attached to thin air. The wire itself hadn't been cut or anything, the van had dissolved around the point it bolts to the inner wing
It was decision time. Scrap the van or learn how to weld? The mechanical fail points were easy enough to sort, so I chose learning how to use my welder properly, of course! The cost of the parts to fix everything wasn't that much, it was just going to be a big investment in time and effort. I didn't realise quite how long this was going to take and it turned in to a marathon, but that was mostly due to having to work outside in the garden and a large part of Feb/March this year was solid rain which totally stopped play.
I started having a dig around one of the MOT fail points on the bodywork to discover someone had been there before. Lots of filler covering up a rusty hole...
And a very rusty wheel arch:
Which led to this:
The state of the panel I cut out!
While I pondered how best to tackle the bodywork I did some of the mechanical bits. The advisory for an oil leak was strange, as I'd sorted those out above. The leak was actually diesel, and it was coming out of the high pressure fuel pump at a rate of knots! This must have only just occurred as I think it would've caused a failure to proceed very soon. Off with the pump!
And here it is on the bench. Luckily you can buy seal kits on Ebay for not a lot of cash:
I exploded it with the help of my little Snap On impact wrench. It might be small but it really packs a punch for its size!
The cam lobe inside the pump. Pretty good for almost 300k miles, I'd say:
I ended up rebuilding it twice due to not discovering all of the seals first time around and still having a leak. Second time worked a treat though.
On to the handbrake issue. It wasn't good enough for Mr MOT Tester. I checked the mechanism was all free and working properly, which it was, it it was just a case of adjusting it correctly and that made a big difference. I like fixes that are free!
Back to the white elephant that is the huge amount of bodywork that still needed to be fixed. Panels were cut, welds were made, grinders were broken, replaced and used in anger.
The pic below was my first attempt at serious welding. It wasn't the best but certainly good enough for this job. I got better as I went!
I made a slight cutting error here and had to weld up a cut line on the piece of arch I wanted to keep as it wasn't actually rotten at all! Oops...
This big patch was required because I'm pretty sure a bus reversed in to the side here. There was rust anyway, but not a rusty dented hole... Soon fixed with a grinder, hammer and welder!
Now for the bit I was least confident about, at least to start with. I stripped down the front corner that was completely rotten and started cutting:
I used a lot of CAD (cardboard aided design) for this. It seemed to work best as several patches that could be shaped with a hammer and welded together on the van:
This is someone's bodge attempt at covering up a nice gouge in the side of the van. It hadn't quite gone through the metal but was pretty close. It was just a load of filler, so I ground it all back to assess what needed to be done, and dealt with the worst of it via a big patch of new metal:
I wasn't originally going to do much with the sliding door, but it really did need some new metal gluing in place:
The front inner wing had a small bit cut out too:
Here's the earlier bus damage partially welded:
I used a lot of Bilt Hamber's Hydrate 80 all over the van. It brushes on a light blue colour, turns dark blue and then black as it dries. Hopefully it'll help protect the metal. Most of this inner wing was left out in the rain completely bare because I'd weld until the weather closed in. There wasn't any other way of doing it:
The broken auxiliary heater used to live in that rusty corner of the engine bay. I removed it as it didn't work and removed the two hard coolant pipes that ran down the inner wing to meet it too. They were on their last legs anyway. As the coolant system was completely apart it seemed like a good idea to fit a new water pump 'while I'm here'.
You can see the new bypass pipe I put on which removed the need for the metal pipes feeding the aux heater. It's the one running from the small electric pump bending up to above the engine. I believe the pump is there to allow flow around the heater matrix as it seems to be the highest point in the system. Also it would've been needed when the aux heater was working to pump the coolant around the circuit when the engine was off - I think the aux heater could be used this way, but correct me if I'm wrong!
With some wax over the fresh painted welds too, I reassembled the now pristine front corner of the engine bay:
The underside of that welding got seam sealed as it's in the wheel arch. As did pretty much everything else around the sills. It's not quite a factory finish but it doesn't look too bad:
I even got some filler out to smooth the ground back bodywork around the welds, not that it made it look any less terrible!
A quick and dirty rattle-can job later:
Here's the driver's side:
Welding finished now? NOPE!
Rear wheel arch tubs had gone in three places on each side. They got welded, seam sealed on the outside and a quick spray of schutz on the inside:
We must be nearly done with the welding now, right? Erm, well almost...
Passenger door work:
I cut the inner repair panel slightly too small so when I folder the outer over it, it didn't quite grip at the bottom. Some spot welds sorted that out but it didn't look as good as I wanted it to. I tried slightly harder with the driver's door, and if I say so myself, it came out pretty well. I should definitely have just done this with the passenger door:
With minimal filler work I had a pretty respectable job on the driver's door. With a small amount more effort I think you wouldn't be able to tell I'd actually replaced the door bottom at all, but it's not that kind of van so 'good enough' is how it'll stay on the bodywork front!
I even took the wood panels off the inside of the van so I could spray some cavity wax over everything and not worry about rust for a while longer. It should last me the rest of my house renovation which I'm slowly plodding through now.
Time for MOT #2. Three months after the initial fail
I dropped it off at the local MOT station rather than use the MB specialist is it was a half hour drive away, and went to cry in to my fry up in the nearest greasy spoon in anticipation of yet another fail for something I'd not noticed. An hour later I was met with great success. The MOT man was very happy with all the work and even complimented me on a good job all around. He noticed I'd sorted some of the advisories too. Which was nice. It might looked absolutely battered still, but it drives well and is mechanically and bodily sound now. Happy days!
About the same time you were collecting your Sprinter, my mate’s was off to a scrapyard in Germany.
Like yours, bought to help in a property refurb, but tin work got the best of it.
The scrappy in Koblenz wouldn’t give any money for it as, “there’s not much metal left!”
Well done on all that welding!
Like yours, bought to help in a property refurb, but tin work got the best of it.
The scrappy in Koblenz wouldn’t give any money for it as, “there’s not much metal left!”
Well done on all that welding!
Hats off to you for the welding... when i first looked at the thread and someone mentioned the rust I thought 'no chance', but you have done an epic job. The corrosion levels are stupidly high though, I know it's nearly 20 years old, but even so. Anyway massive pat on the back to you for your effort and perseverance.
RC1807 said:
About the same time you were collecting your Sprinter, my mate’s was off to a scrapyard in Germany.
Like yours, bought to help in a property refurb, but tin work got the best of it.
The scrappy in Koblenz wouldn’t give any money for it as, “there’s not much metal left!”
Well done on all that welding!
Thanks! That's a shame about your friend's Sprinter. I think most people would have scrapped mine too, but my logic was that my labour is free and parts were cheap. It was cheaper to fix than replace but just getting a new van might not have tipped me towards insanity so much!Like yours, bought to help in a property refurb, but tin work got the best of it.
The scrappy in Koblenz wouldn’t give any money for it as, “there’s not much metal left!”
Well done on all that welding!
emmetb said:
Hats off to you for the welding... when i first looked at the thread and someone mentioned the rust I thought 'no chance', but you have done an epic job. The corrosion levels are stupidly high though, I know it's nearly 20 years old, but even so. Anyway massive pat on the back to you for your effort and perseverance.
Yes, they do rust quite badly... It was quite the weldathon but I'm pleased with the result MJK 24 said:
Great work! Another five years left in it now!
I was working on making it good for this MOT and two more without any significant work at all. Time will tell!Northbrook said:
Wow.
Wanna do mine??
What needs doing?! Money + steak + beer required Wanna do mine??
cerb4.5lee said:
What a fantastic job! So great to see, nice one.
I can barely tie my own shoe laces...nevermind tackle something like this! Awesome.
Cheers! I had a very basic idea of using the welder beforehand but I'm a lot happier with it after that project. It just needed practise on a vehicle that doesn't matter too much...I can barely tie my own shoe laces...nevermind tackle something like this! Awesome.
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