Base idle and throttle cable adjustment
Discussion
Setting up the timing and trying to get my idle working properly.
At 12 deg with vacuum connected, the car is ticking over at around 900 rpm, slightly lumpily (faint chuffing sound) though so thought I'd check the base idle.
Using the bolt in a hose method to seal off the hose to the stepper housing, the car will not idle at all, with rpm dropping down to under 400rpm.
Shut the idle adjuster all the way down and opened it up a couple of turns but still the car would not idle at 600 rpm, turned a couple more and no different.
Pushed the distributor and it idled at 600rpm but when I strobes it, it was at around 20degs.
Unplugged the hose to the stepper, reset at 12 degs and got 900 rpm again. Moved vacuum off from the ported position and went full manifold vacuum and timing moved to 22 degs but no change in idle speed. Idling smoother and less chuggy than before but still at 900 rpm.
Blipping the throttle, no hesitation and the whole time rover guage is telling me there is about 40-45% negative trim long term (car was only running for about a couple of hours) , although short term hovers around the centre.
I had completely removed the throttle cable and adjuster. Putting it back it, I set it tight enough for the butterfly to spring back to the stop but did not do any kind of adjustment to it.
Can't drive the car as it's still sorned and no seats in it.
Spent time with Teflon tape on threads and jubilee clips to seal any potential vacuum leaks and plenum freshly sealed with a thin bead of blue hylomar. Injectors freshly prof refurbished and new ht leads and sparks all round.
I was very careful while putting it back together but now don't know where to look.
At 12 deg with vacuum connected, the car is ticking over at around 900 rpm, slightly lumpily (faint chuffing sound) though so thought I'd check the base idle.
Using the bolt in a hose method to seal off the hose to the stepper housing, the car will not idle at all, with rpm dropping down to under 400rpm.
Shut the idle adjuster all the way down and opened it up a couple of turns but still the car would not idle at 600 rpm, turned a couple more and no different.
Pushed the distributor and it idled at 600rpm but when I strobes it, it was at around 20degs.
Unplugged the hose to the stepper, reset at 12 degs and got 900 rpm again. Moved vacuum off from the ported position and went full manifold vacuum and timing moved to 22 degs but no change in idle speed. Idling smoother and less chuggy than before but still at 900 rpm.
Blipping the throttle, no hesitation and the whole time rover guage is telling me there is about 40-45% negative trim long term (car was only running for about a couple of hours) , although short term hovers around the centre.
I had completely removed the throttle cable and adjuster. Putting it back it, I set it tight enough for the butterfly to spring back to the stop but did not do any kind of adjustment to it.
Can't drive the car as it's still sorned and no seats in it.
Spent time with Teflon tape on threads and jubilee clips to seal any potential vacuum leaks and plenum freshly sealed with a thin bead of blue hylomar. Injectors freshly prof refurbished and new ht leads and sparks all round.
I was very careful while putting it back together but now don't know where to look.
Not the exhaust manifold - Nordlocks with ARP bolts and new gaskets last year. retightened last month,
I am wondering if one of the spark plugs is not all the way in, need to check that as there was one that was not going in nicely, but I can't remember if I took it out and reset it. Although IR gun check - no colder cylinders.
This sound was more prominent when the advance was set below 8 degrees, but when the full manifold vacuum was used, it had gone.
I am wondering if one of the spark plugs is not all the way in, need to check that as there was one that was not going in nicely, but I can't remember if I took it out and reset it. Although IR gun check - no colder cylinders.
This sound was more prominent when the advance was set below 8 degrees, but when the full manifold vacuum was used, it had gone.
Hi Steve,
I'm afraid it's impossible to fix cars over emails and a forum, I would need to see the car as there are way too many variables to consider.
Anything else would be guess work on my part and that's not the way to diagnose & correct a fault, I recommend putting the car back to standard and getting it running correctly like that before you experiment with non-standard setups.
This will give you a baseline to work with and one you can always easily return to, sorry I can't be of more help but this is my best advice.
Kind regards, Dave.
I'm afraid it's impossible to fix cars over emails and a forum, I would need to see the car as there are way too many variables to consider.
Anything else would be guess work on my part and that's not the way to diagnose & correct a fault, I recommend putting the car back to standard and getting it running correctly like that before you experiment with non-standard setups.
This will give you a baseline to work with and one you can always easily return to, sorry I can't be of more help but this is my best advice.
Kind regards, Dave.
ChimpOnGas said:
Hi Steve,
I recommend putting the car back to standard and getting it running correctly like that before you experiment with non-standard setups.
But this is it, I am trying to set the car up as standard first, the issue I am having is to do with getting the base idle and timing right for the car in standard form, before fitting the full manifold vacuum. I only mentioned what happens when I shift the vacuum hose over so that it might shed some light on where things might be wrong,I recommend putting the car back to standard and getting it running correctly like that before you experiment with non-standard setups.
In your first post you mention using a bolt to seal off pipe to stepper motor. What are you using to seal the end the pipe goes onto.
Ideally use a brake hose clamp or as in my case I use a rag and clamp pipe shut with Mole grips, I don’t remove or disconnect the pipe. It doesn’t take much pressure to squeeze pipe.
Also have you checked actual TDC to confirm if your timing marks are good.
Sorry if you’ve answered this somewhere else.
Ideally use a brake hose clamp or as in my case I use a rag and clamp pipe shut with Mole grips, I don’t remove or disconnect the pipe. It doesn’t take much pressure to squeeze pipe.
Also have you checked actual TDC to confirm if your timing marks are good.
Sorry if you’ve answered this somewhere else.
Classic Chim said:
In your first post you mention using a bolt to seal off pipe to stepper motor. What are you using to seal the end the pipe goes onto.
Ideally use a brake hose clamp or as in my case I use a rag and clamp pipe shut with Mole grips, I don’t remove or disconnect the pipe. It doesn’t take much pressure to squeeze pipe.
Also have you checked actual TDC to confirm if your timing marks are good.
Sorry if you’ve answered this somewhere else.
It is a method that Blitz describes on his site, where you take the hose out of the plenum, slot in a piece of fuel hose with a bolt in it, with a nut on the other end, which you wind in, and this fattens up the hose to seal the hole, then you put the stepper hose back on over it and seal that too with a jubilee clip.Ideally use a brake hose clamp or as in my case I use a rag and clamp pipe shut with Mole grips, I don’t remove or disconnect the pipe. It doesn’t take much pressure to squeeze pipe.
Also have you checked actual TDC to confirm if your timing marks are good.
Sorry if you’ve answered this somewhere else.
I used the piston stop method with a bored out spark and bolt, and it confirmed that the TDC was correct.
jazzdude said:
It is a method that Blitz describes on his site, where you take the hose out of the plenum, slot in a piece of fuel hose with a bolt in it, with a nut on the other end, which you wind in, and this fattens up the hose to seal the hole, then you put the stepper hose back on over it and seal that too with a jubilee clip.
I used the piston stop method with a bored out spark and bolt, and it confirmed that the TDC was correct.
None of the above is a standard arrangement, always keep in mind the intelligent engineers who designed the Lucas 14CUX created a system that worked very well when it was new, achieving what they created and making sure it works exactly as designed should always be your first goal. Straying from the standard setup by using something cooked up by an enthusiastic amateur with a website is not the way to replicate what the professionals at Lucas/Bosch created. Actually it's important to point out the Lucas 14CUX is just a licensed version of the Bosch L-Jetronic system, so credit for its design goes to the Germans not the British. I used the piston stop method with a bored out spark and bolt, and it confirmed that the TDC was correct.
The only genuine Lucas in-house fuel injection system that actually went into full production was their dreadful mechanical injection first used on the Triumph TR5 and subsequently the TR6 and 2500Pi saloon, this system sported such brilliant ideas as a fuel pump adapted from a Lucas wiper motor because that's the only high amp motor Lucas had on the shelf at the time. The Lucas mechanical injection system was unreliable and poorly developed like everything else produced by the British motor industry in the late 1960's/early 1970's, Bosch on the other hand were at the same time busy designing and developing super efficient and reliable injection systems that went on to change fuel delivery and ultimately ignition management for ever.
Staying with the fuel pump example for a minute (and there were many other balls ups made by Lucas), Bosch took a different approach to delivering fuel at high pressure, they adopted a proper engineer's 'clean sheet of paper approach' and designed a reliable high pressure fuel pump from scratch. The Germans had been delivering fuel at high pressure using mechanical pumps since they developed such systems for their high altitude fighter aircraft during WW2, this knowledge was used on the direct injected Mercedes 300SL to good effect but the shift to using an electric pump in their subsequent systems proved a challenge.
Very quickly Bosch worked out when you deliver fuel at 40psi using an electric pump, the pump will become extremely hot, so they designed their pump to run wet cleverly using the fuel itself to cool it. Lucas on the other hand continued with their old dry running wiper motor with no cooling at all, the results being those Lucas injection pumps had a very short life indeed. In 1967 Bosh were already showing Lucas how to build a proper mechanical injection system when they introduced the D-Jetronic system, D stands for druk which means pressure in German because the system functioned on varying fuel pressure.
In the end Lucas realised their failings and lack of know-how & simply gave up the fuel injection technology race with the Germans, they conceded and accepted the only way forward was to actually work with Bosch not fight them. This is where the Lucas 14CUX system really comes from, basically it's a Bosch L-Jetronic system, the L stands for Luft which means air in German because they used air mass to calculate engine load using a hot wire mass air flow meter.
Anyway, I digress
The uncomfortable truth is, if you're struggling to set the car up properly yourself in standard trim, you really need to recruit the services of a professional who can. The first thing they will insist on is to get the car in their workshop so they can start the very structured process of fault diagnosis. Forums are all well and good, but expecting a free magic bullet answer to fall out of a discussion over the net is extremely optimistic at best.
When you're sick you go to the doctor, when your car has a fault and you're unsure how to fix it yourself, you take it to a professional who has the right experience. The key point here is both a doctor and a mechanic will always need to see and physically lay their hands on the patient, trying to fault diagnose over forums and emails is a highly unsatisfactory approach and introduces the enemy of all good fault diagnosis.... GUESS WORK!
A true professional will always start by putting everything back to how the original Lucas/Bosch designers intended, and that means removing the Blitz stepper motor air feed pipe restriction bodge. That's not to say everything was rosy with the standard setup, if you really study it you'll find compromises driven by ever stricter emissions regulations, these are the elements that can be eliminated to achieve better results..... but not before you've put the whole thing back to standard and got it working properly like that!
No one likes spending money, but sometimes this is exactly whats required, as already stated my best advice is to go to a professional to set the car up so it works exactly as the designers intended. Only then should you look to experiment with ideas such as deleting the emissions based ported vacuum arrangement and connecting your vac advance unit to full manifold vacuum, this way if the results of non-standard changes prove negative you can always easily & quickly return to a known and standard setup that works correctly.
If you start to make non-standard changes to a car that already isn't working correctly in standard trim you are playing with fire! This approach is fraught with the very real potential of making the situation considerably worse, it will also much it harder for a professional to diagnose and correct the original fault which will ultimately end up costing you more money.
ChimpOnGas said:
None of the above is a standard arrangement, always keep in mind the intelligent engineers who designed the Lucas 14CUX created a system that worked very well when it was new, achieving what they created and making sure it works exactly as designed should always be your first goal. Straying from the standard setup by using something cooked up by an enthusiastic amateur with a website is not the way to replicate what the professionals at Lucas/Bosch created. Actually it's important to point out the Lucas 14CUX is just a licensed version of the Bosch L-Jetronic system, so credit for its design goes to the Germans not the British.
The only genuine Lucas in-house fuel injection system that actually went into full production was their dreadful mechanical injection first used on the Triumph TR5 and subsequently the TR6 and 2500Pi saloon, this system sported such brilliant ideas as a fuel pump adapted from a Lucas wiper motor because that's the only high amp motor Lucas had on the shelf at the time. The Lucas mechanical injection system was unreliable and poorly developed like everything else produced by the British motor industry in the late 1960's/early 1970's, Bosch on the other hand were at the same time busy designing and developing super efficient and reliable injection systems that went on to change fuel delivery and ultimately ignition management for ever.
Staying with the fuel pump example for a minute (and there were many other balls ups made by Lucas), Bosch took a different approach to delivering fuel at high pressure, they adopted a proper engineer's 'clean sheet of paper approach' and designed a reliable high pressure fuel pump from scratch. The Germans had been delivering fuel at high pressure using mechanical pumps since they developed such systems for their high altitude fighter aircraft during WW2, this knowledge was used on the direct injected Mercedes 300SL to good effect but the shift to using an electric pump in their subsequent systems proved a challenge.
Very quickly Bosch worked out when you deliver fuel at 40psi using an electric pump, the pump will become extremely hot, so they designed their pump to run wet cleverly using the fuel itself to cool it. Lucas on the other hand continued with their old dry running wiper motor with no cooling at all, the results being those Lucas injection pumps had a very short life indeed. In 1967 Bosh were already showing Lucas how to build a proper mechanical injection system when they introduced the D-Jetronic system, D stands for druk which means pressure in German because the system functioned on varying fuel pressure.
In the end Lucas realised their failings and lack of know-how & simply gave up the fuel injection technology race with the Germans, they conceded and accepted the only way forward was to actually work with Bosch not fight them. This is where the Lucas 14CUX system really comes from, basically it's a Bosch L-Jetronic system, the L stands for Luft which means air in German because they used air mass to calculate engine load using a hot wire mass air flow meter.
Anyway, I digress
The uncomfortable truth is, if you're struggling to set the car up properly yourself in standard trim, you really need to recruit the services of a professional who can. The first thing they will insist on is to get the car in their workshop so they can start the very structured process of fault diagnosis. Forums are all well and good, but expecting a free magic bullet answer to fall out of a discussion over the net is extremely optimistic at best.
When you're sick you go to the doctor, when your car has a fault and you're unsure how to fix it yourself, you take it to a professional who has the right experience. The key point here is both a doctor and a mechanic will always need to see and physically lay their hands on the patient, trying to fault diagnose over forums and emails is a highly unsatisfactory approach and introduces the enemy of all good fault diagnosis.... GUESS WORK!
A true professional will always start by putting everything back to how the original Lucas/Bosch designers intended, and that means removing the Blitz stepper motor air feed pipe restriction bodge. That's not to say everything was rosy with the standard setup, if you really study it you'll find compromises driven by ever stricter emissions regulations, these are the elements that can be eliminated to achieve better results..... but not before you've put the whole thing back to standard and got it working properly like that!
No one likes spending money, but sometimes this is exactly whats required, as already stated my best advice is to go to a professional to set the car up so it works exactly as the designers intended. Only then should you look to experiment with ideas such as deleting the emissions based ported vacuum arrangement and connecting your vac advance unit to full manifold vacuum, this way if the results of non-standard changes prove negative you can always easily & quickly return to a known and standard setup that works correctly.
If you start to make non-standard changes to a car that already isn't working correctly in standard trim you are playing with fire! This approach is fraught with the very real potential of making the situation considerably worse, it will also much it harder for a professional to diagnose and correct the original fault which will ultimately end up costing you more money.
COG - A quick question. How does one connect the vac advance to full manifold vacuum? I have seen this mentioned a few times but was wondering how it is done and what the benefits are.The only genuine Lucas in-house fuel injection system that actually went into full production was their dreadful mechanical injection first used on the Triumph TR5 and subsequently the TR6 and 2500Pi saloon, this system sported such brilliant ideas as a fuel pump adapted from a Lucas wiper motor because that's the only high amp motor Lucas had on the shelf at the time. The Lucas mechanical injection system was unreliable and poorly developed like everything else produced by the British motor industry in the late 1960's/early 1970's, Bosch on the other hand were at the same time busy designing and developing super efficient and reliable injection systems that went on to change fuel delivery and ultimately ignition management for ever.
Staying with the fuel pump example for a minute (and there were many other balls ups made by Lucas), Bosch took a different approach to delivering fuel at high pressure, they adopted a proper engineer's 'clean sheet of paper approach' and designed a reliable high pressure fuel pump from scratch. The Germans had been delivering fuel at high pressure using mechanical pumps since they developed such systems for their high altitude fighter aircraft during WW2, this knowledge was used on the direct injected Mercedes 300SL to good effect but the shift to using an electric pump in their subsequent systems proved a challenge.
Very quickly Bosch worked out when you deliver fuel at 40psi using an electric pump, the pump will become extremely hot, so they designed their pump to run wet cleverly using the fuel itself to cool it. Lucas on the other hand continued with their old dry running wiper motor with no cooling at all, the results being those Lucas injection pumps had a very short life indeed. In 1967 Bosh were already showing Lucas how to build a proper mechanical injection system when they introduced the D-Jetronic system, D stands for druk which means pressure in German because the system functioned on varying fuel pressure.
In the end Lucas realised their failings and lack of know-how & simply gave up the fuel injection technology race with the Germans, they conceded and accepted the only way forward was to actually work with Bosch not fight them. This is where the Lucas 14CUX system really comes from, basically it's a Bosch L-Jetronic system, the L stands for Luft which means air in German because they used air mass to calculate engine load using a hot wire mass air flow meter.
Anyway, I digress
The uncomfortable truth is, if you're struggling to set the car up properly yourself in standard trim, you really need to recruit the services of a professional who can. The first thing they will insist on is to get the car in their workshop so they can start the very structured process of fault diagnosis. Forums are all well and good, but expecting a free magic bullet answer to fall out of a discussion over the net is extremely optimistic at best.
When you're sick you go to the doctor, when your car has a fault and you're unsure how to fix it yourself, you take it to a professional who has the right experience. The key point here is both a doctor and a mechanic will always need to see and physically lay their hands on the patient, trying to fault diagnose over forums and emails is a highly unsatisfactory approach and introduces the enemy of all good fault diagnosis.... GUESS WORK!
A true professional will always start by putting everything back to how the original Lucas/Bosch designers intended, and that means removing the Blitz stepper motor air feed pipe restriction bodge. That's not to say everything was rosy with the standard setup, if you really study it you'll find compromises driven by ever stricter emissions regulations, these are the elements that can be eliminated to achieve better results..... but not before you've put the whole thing back to standard and got it working properly like that!
No one likes spending money, but sometimes this is exactly whats required, as already stated my best advice is to go to a professional to set the car up so it works exactly as the designers intended. Only then should you look to experiment with ideas such as deleting the emissions based ported vacuum arrangement and connecting your vac advance unit to full manifold vacuum, this way if the results of non-standard changes prove negative you can always easily & quickly return to a known and standard setup that works correctly.
If you start to make non-standard changes to a car that already isn't working correctly in standard trim you are playing with fire! This approach is fraught with the very real potential of making the situation considerably worse, it will also much it harder for a professional to diagnose and correct the original fault which will ultimately end up costing you more money.
FYI the bolt in the pipe is just a method to set the base idle, it's not intended to be left in place. same as crimping the hose.
Cheers!
Oldred_V8S said:
COG - A quick question. How does one connect the vac advance to full manifold vacuum? I have seen this mentioned a few times but was wondering how it is done and what the benefits are.
FYI the bolt in the pipe is just a method to set the base idle, it's not intended to be left in place. same as crimping the hose.
Cheers!
While it would be nice to think I could provide personalised responses and explanations to everyone on an individual basis, the truth is I simply do not have time to provide repetition of what I've already exhaustively covered elsewhere.FYI the bolt in the pipe is just a method to set the base idle, it's not intended to be left in place. same as crimping the hose.
Cheers!
This is why we have a forum, so remember.... Google is your friend
http://bfy.tw/H6P6
It's not hard
ChimpOnGas said:
.......A true professional will always start by putting everything back to how the original Lucas/Bosch designers intended, and that means removing the Blitz stepper motor air feed pipe restriction bodge. .........
In fairness to Blitz blocking the hose is not a bodge it is a test method and only used for setting the base idle. Once set the pipe blockage is removed. Setting the base idle at about 600rpm allows the stepper to bring the idle up to the 14CUX controlled setting.Steve
Steve_D said:
In fairness to Blitz blocking the hose is not a bodge it is a test method and only used for setting the base idle. Once set the pipe blockage is removed. Setting the base idle at about 600rpm allows the stepper to bring the idle up to the 14CUX controlled setting.
Steve
And that is exactly what I did, blocked off the pipe, with, what I think, is a more effective and 'rubber hose' friendly way than squashing it with a monkey wrench. Once the base idle is set, it is removed and the rpm goes back up to normal.Steve
jazzdude said:
Not the exhaust manifold - Nordlocks with ARP bolts and new gaskets last year. retightened last month,
Just a point on that combination. nordlocks don't work with ARP's. The nordlock system requires that the nordlock be the harder component so that it can bight onto the bolt and flange. In this case the ARP's are harder so they just slip on the nordlocks. I used this combination but pop marked the ARP flanges to enable them to bight onto the nordlocks.bobfather said:
Just a point on that combination. nordlocks don't work with ARP's. The nordlock system requires that the nordlock be the harder component so that it can bight onto the bolt and flange. In this case the ARP's are harder so they just slip on the nordlocks. I used this combination but pop marked the ARP flanges to enable them to bight onto the nordlocks.
That's correct, and that's what I did bobfather, and they are still tight a year later when I checked them again. 
I do apologise in advance if I have misinterpreted this COG, but I am getting the impression that you have got out of the wrong side of the bed this morning. Don't you feel that using that link to the cute little video showing how to google something was not a little off?
I mean, a couple of posts above that, you spend the time, that you said you don't have, to write 5 paragraphs about the history of Bosch/Lucas and injection technology, yet when Oldred_V8S asked a simple question, I don't understand why could not simply use the response that ric355 kindly posted, it was far shorter than your text and setting up that little video link.
The "God damn shunt is killing me" thread was very informative and there you spent the time, with excellently worded text, diagrams and direct instructions and explanations, to describe a modification that, if you do use the search facility, you will find that this is a subject you have been posting about for a while now in a few different threads. Searching the PH forum, you seem to be the only person who has described this in this amount of detail, in what you say was a very typical feature with v8s in the 50s and 60s engines in the states, with a similar amount of detail and informative text in those threads too.
With the positive result, that Stu had described towards the end of that thread, while he was having some issues setting it up, you took the time to explain to those who also had queries and doubts, to help them understand how this mod could help those who decided to improve their 'clockwork' ignition system. For this reason, I also decided to try it.
I am sure others will also say that your contributions to this thread are always excellent and are extremely informative and I have commented on that fact many times on here when you have given detailed responses to our subjects.
It then just seems strange, then when a couple of us follow on from that very instructive and detailed thread, you shut us down, especially as in this case after you have very much been championing full manifold vacuum in that and the other threads on the PH forums, that you seem to see yourself as an authority on the subject.
Perhaps I was not clear, but BEFORE changing the vacuum over, I was trying to get the car set up properly in standard form, which it had been before I took it to pieces (set up by me again by the way). Something was not right and I used a description of the mod, to describe further symptoms that I was seeing.
Was it really necessary to use some of that time, you say you don't have, to set out in 5, very patronising paragraphs that used the analogy of 'when we are sick we should go to a doctor'? If we all followed that advice, what will be here for us to post about? Our garage bills?
I may not have the expertise and experience you have Dave, but having by myself, completely taken this car to bits, body off too and put it back together again, including retrofitted a/c, that if you also used your friend, you will find there is not any information on, and I have been very pleased to help people who have pm'd me for specific information for this mod, as I feel that is what a forum is also for.
I mean, a couple of posts above that, you spend the time, that you said you don't have, to write 5 paragraphs about the history of Bosch/Lucas and injection technology, yet when Oldred_V8S asked a simple question, I don't understand why could not simply use the response that ric355 kindly posted, it was far shorter than your text and setting up that little video link.
The "God damn shunt is killing me" thread was very informative and there you spent the time, with excellently worded text, diagrams and direct instructions and explanations, to describe a modification that, if you do use the search facility, you will find that this is a subject you have been posting about for a while now in a few different threads. Searching the PH forum, you seem to be the only person who has described this in this amount of detail, in what you say was a very typical feature with v8s in the 50s and 60s engines in the states, with a similar amount of detail and informative text in those threads too.
With the positive result, that Stu had described towards the end of that thread, while he was having some issues setting it up, you took the time to explain to those who also had queries and doubts, to help them understand how this mod could help those who decided to improve their 'clockwork' ignition system. For this reason, I also decided to try it.
I am sure others will also say that your contributions to this thread are always excellent and are extremely informative and I have commented on that fact many times on here when you have given detailed responses to our subjects.
It then just seems strange, then when a couple of us follow on from that very instructive and detailed thread, you shut us down, especially as in this case after you have very much been championing full manifold vacuum in that and the other threads on the PH forums, that you seem to see yourself as an authority on the subject.
Perhaps I was not clear, but BEFORE changing the vacuum over, I was trying to get the car set up properly in standard form, which it had been before I took it to pieces (set up by me again by the way). Something was not right and I used a description of the mod, to describe further symptoms that I was seeing.
Was it really necessary to use some of that time, you say you don't have, to set out in 5, very patronising paragraphs that used the analogy of 'when we are sick we should go to a doctor'? If we all followed that advice, what will be here for us to post about? Our garage bills?
I may not have the expertise and experience you have Dave, but having by myself, completely taken this car to bits, body off too and put it back together again, including retrofitted a/c, that if you also used your friend, you will find there is not any information on, and I have been very pleased to help people who have pm'd me for specific information for this mod, as I feel that is what a forum is also for.
Just an off the top of my head thought: Have you considered fuelling? What do the plugs look like? Your long term trim suggests that the ECU thinks it’s running a little bit rich. I think incorrect mixture may explain your symptoms.
Maybe check fuel pressure, temp sensors, air meter, lambda etc.
Maybe check fuel pressure, temp sensors, air meter, lambda etc.
Oneball said:
Just an off the top of my head thought: Have you considered fuelling? What do the plugs look like? Your long term trim suggests that the ECU thinks it’s running a little bit rich. I think incorrect mixture may explain your symptoms.
Maybe check fuel pressure, temp sensors, air meter, lambda etc.
Thanks all on the list Maybe check fuel pressure, temp sensors, air meter, lambda etc.
Injection wise, I refitted my reconditioned injectors as part of the work, they went in easily and was tightly bolted down. New o rings throughout.
Is it possible to put them in incorrectly, I mean the wiring was labeled, injectors are tight to the manifold, the clips are in the right grooves and there are not any leaks.
I'll recheck all the plugs and leads but as I understand it, a vacuum leak will make the idle faster, not slower, right?
All I'm saying Steve (jazzdude), is people need to use the forum as designed, it's all about searching and digesting the huge archive of valuable information on these pages while applying a commonsense BS filter in the process. Seeking a personal response or an individual advice service is a bit bold when all the answers are already available and open source, especially if someone has already invested time and effort in explaining a principle in great detail and has posted it on an open forum.
Obviously you're having issues with your car as you've posted a huge number of questions and queries about it here and on Facebook, and for that you genuinely have by sympathy, especially given your location. But I also get the feeling you may be clinging to the false hope you'll one day find an easy and free magic bullet fix on a social media site or forum.
Sadly it just doesn't work like that
.
All I'm really trying to do is encourage you to stop, reassess your approach, and return to the basics like a good professional mechanic would, then work your way through the car systematically from there. The foundation of diagnosis is always a deep understanding of how a system was designed to work in the first place, only then can you move to the next step which is actually a series of systematic and logical steps where you test of each component in the potentially long chain of components that makes up the system.
If you follow this process strictly, religiously and systematically the only outcome will be to find the fault, it's unavoidable! But you must start from a place where you truly understand how the system is designed to work correctly in the first place, I also appreciate I'm the architect of the idea but I'd encourage you to forget all this ported vs manifold vacuum stuff until you've sorted the basics out.
Always keep in mind the car worked correctly when new so there is absolutely no reason why it can't work correctly once you've identified and corrected what can only be currently described as an undiscovered fault. Once you've corrected your fault and got the car working correctly in standard trim, then and only then should you look to experiment with non-standard arrangements such as switching the vacuum signal to your vac advance unit from ported to manifold vacuum.
I genuinely wish you all the best with it, and if at anytime you want to fly me into Cypus to have a look over your TVR please don't hesitate to contact me to make the necessary arrangements, my speedos and sunglasses are at the ready
. At one time my Greek was passable as I lived and worked in Crete, sadly it's all rather sketchy these days.
I'd say good luck but actually luck has absolutely nothing to do with fixing things, but hopefully you get my sentiment?
Kind regards, Dave.
Obviously you're having issues with your car as you've posted a huge number of questions and queries about it here and on Facebook, and for that you genuinely have by sympathy, especially given your location. But I also get the feeling you may be clinging to the false hope you'll one day find an easy and free magic bullet fix on a social media site or forum.
Sadly it just doesn't work like that
.All I'm really trying to do is encourage you to stop, reassess your approach, and return to the basics like a good professional mechanic would, then work your way through the car systematically from there. The foundation of diagnosis is always a deep understanding of how a system was designed to work in the first place, only then can you move to the next step which is actually a series of systematic and logical steps where you test of each component in the potentially long chain of components that makes up the system.
If you follow this process strictly, religiously and systematically the only outcome will be to find the fault, it's unavoidable! But you must start from a place where you truly understand how the system is designed to work correctly in the first place, I also appreciate I'm the architect of the idea but I'd encourage you to forget all this ported vs manifold vacuum stuff until you've sorted the basics out.
Always keep in mind the car worked correctly when new so there is absolutely no reason why it can't work correctly once you've identified and corrected what can only be currently described as an undiscovered fault. Once you've corrected your fault and got the car working correctly in standard trim, then and only then should you look to experiment with non-standard arrangements such as switching the vacuum signal to your vac advance unit from ported to manifold vacuum.
I genuinely wish you all the best with it, and if at anytime you want to fly me into Cypus to have a look over your TVR please don't hesitate to contact me to make the necessary arrangements, my speedos and sunglasses are at the ready
. At one time my Greek was passable as I lived and worked in Crete, sadly it's all rather sketchy these days.I'd say good luck but actually luck has absolutely nothing to do with fixing things, but hopefully you get my sentiment?
Kind regards, Dave.
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Wednesday 14th March 18:20
Message Board | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff