Shocking CV joint internals.

[ridds]

Anyone had their CV joints apart?

I've got all the rear suspension off to do diff bushes, suspension bushes etc and thought as I'm this far in I might as well strip and clean up the CV joints.

Well, This is what I found!!!









Anyone else found joints like this?
Is this common?

I really cannot justify £500 on CV joints so does anyone know of a cheaper source?

[spongy]

Lol this rebuilding lark can £££££££ mount up.my diff bushes have led to new outriggers,oils,bolts ,paint,more paint,and time.And its only just begun,Sir if there were no play issues with em grease em up and put em back till they start to play up if money is tight.mine were thank god ok but im sure someone will soon be along to help

[Tanguero]

ridds said:

I really cannot justify £500 on CV joints so does anyone know of a cheaper source?

I put a link it in the equivalent parts thread a while ago - try the last page. The joints were under £50 and the boots under a tenner if I remember rightly

[ridds]

Awesome, didn't see that! Many thanks!! They've not been added to the main list yet. To be fair, when you add the boot holder, new boot, grease clips etc. You're back up to the £108 that power want.

tbh I could buy new ones but I'm just thinking if they are like this from the factory then I may just leave them as I've not heard of them failing.

I started with a diff swap to a lower ratio and to fit new input and output seals.

I'm now £1200 in.... (not included the new tools I've bought)

I'd already bought the bushes 3 years ago! So these aren't included...
I'd also already bought the new diff!

New so far:
POR15 Paint
Rad
Rad mounts upper and lower
2 new Pacet slimline fans
Rad mount seals
A/C condenser
Drier
Trinary switch
Diff input and output seals
exhaust heat shield for prop
Prop bolts
Driveshaft bolts
Upper wishbones (as these had gone like the fronts)

Still to go:
Zinc plating £50
Shot blasting £50
New CV joints???? £500
Rear wheel bearings £100
Drive shafts? Brummie, how much are your special ones?


Already fed up with:
Burning out bushes
Cutting bush outers (with a headache)
Braking my vice....

[spongy]

Drill out your bushes man......its so fast and really easy,just get a hole saw and your away

[Tanguero]

The boots come with grease and clips. I know the boot holders were more, but I didn't think they were that much besides you can reuse them - its the internals of the CV joint that are critical. When I replaced mine it may have been subjective but it felt like it tightened the back end up noticeably.

You think your budget is bad - mine is up to £4k on my body off restoration!!!
Shipwrights disease gone mad.

[ridds]

My body off and engine rebuild cost calculator sheet came to £12K in PARTS alone.

Hence I've not started it yet.... Although I guess I'll be down to £10k after this bit of work.

[spongy]

My list
Rent a garage
renovation ramps
new tool chest
steel support beam
new exhaust
new diff bushes
diff oil
por 15 paint products
dumpy spanners
multi meter
top diff plate(uprated one)
outriggers...
ryobi multi tool thingy
many new bolts
the list goes on
.......now the job to do was the diff bushes,maybe i should have just taken it to a garage......but what fun would that be..

[mikesr]

I'm in the process of replacing the CV joints. There were nasty crunching noises on the Cobweb run.

I haven't even bothered cleaning up the old ones to inspect them. The play in them is frightening. There is even a small amount of play on the splines of the drive shaft.

I bought mine from here
£55.95 each + VAT and delivery. A little less than £300 for the 4.

Haven't fitted them yet so can't comment on durability etc They are manufactured by GKN so hopefully no problems.

The boots I got from Racing Green. They include clips and 500g of grease.

And with the money I saved I bought a plating kit to tidy up the metal bits. Silver POR15 did stop any more rusting but it doesn't look good.
So into the blast cabinet tomorrow and then an afternoon experimenting with plating.

[ukkid35]

If left and right axles are the same length (and I don't know whether they are) then you can swap them round to get more life out of the CV joints.

Except that's a very bad idea because the threads on the stub axles are handed

Edited by ukkid35 on Wednesday 26th May 21:14

[ridds]

After looking at various google images I've come to the conclusion that they're finish is actually what you get with cheap joints.

The bit to worry about is the polished dots in the scraggy bit. This is where the wear is occurring and will start to pluck metal out once it's eaten through the surface hardening.

Think I'll bite the bullet.

[ukkid35]

ridds said:

Well, This is what I found!!!

TBH they don't look too shocking to me, shows how little I know

The reason I was concerned about mine was because of play and high speed transmission rumble

Anyway, just replaced all four CV joints, total parts cost £140

For supply reasons I used two Shaftec PJ53N as inners and two Napa NCV1128 as outers

The Shaftec are worth the £3 premium as the kit is more comprehensive

The most difficult part about fitting them is the refitting the brake shoe return springs

However I do have a Clarke CEW1000 and a 24" extension bar for the 1/2" hex socket - that is invaluable when dealing with the CV bolts



Obviously there's no play now, but the transmission rumble, though reduced, is probably due to the diff

Edited by ukkid35 on Wednesday 26th May 21:40

[ridds]

2012.... That was a while ago.

[Mr Cerbera]

Well, if we're all gonna sing the song "She swallowed the fly....

My generating light came on:-
Alternator Drive Belt had shreaded.
Replaced Alternator Drive Belt (Wot an absolute nightmare of a job)
Replaced the UJ's in the Steering Column (and fitted Rubber Boot protection)
Replaced the Lambdas
Replaced the Catalyser
Replaced the weak wiring on the rear of the Steering Wheel
Replaced the Indicator Arm that I broke
Replaced the Bonnet hinges with quick-release specials from Peter Essling
Attemped to replace the Exhaust Brace
Replaced the Oil Pressure Spring
Replaced ALL the liquids (including Diff)
Flushed the Cooling System
Fitted an Oil Filter Sandwich Plate, Temp Sensor and attempted to wire up to make the Guage (which I'd fitted 7 years earlier)
Replaced Throttle Cable (again)
Replaced the Driver's Seat
Found a way to fit the seats correctly and (more) conveniently
Replaced aloada Hex heads with Torx & Allen screws
Replaced the front ARB Drop Links
Replaced the plastic Cooling System Header Tank with an alloy one. - This took 9 months !
But the upside is that I've spent 35 months on her, which has radically reduced my mileage/ownership ratio

[Jhonno]

Doing this currently after finding a massive amount of play in my CVs, including to the splines..

New driveshafts whilst I am there.

Worst part was bolts that didn't want to undo and rounded.

[ukkid35]

Jhonno said:

Worst part was bolts that didn't want to undo and rounded.

Worth having some spare M10 x 1.25 (fine) 60mm to hand

I only rounded one before I remembered the importance of spraying the hex wells with brake cleaner before attempting to undo them

[gruffalo]

Jhonno said:

Doing this currently after finding a massive amount of play in my CVs, including to the splines..

New driveshafts whilst I am there.

Worst part was bolts that didn't want to undo and rounded.

I did this job last year for the same reason, I ordered from Dave Mac their guaranteed for life units, very happy so far.