So how do I get these out.....

[roseytvr]

Winters on its way so I thought I would make a start on detailing and maintaining the Sag. First job is to give the chassis a good clean and touch up any stone chips etc. Up on the ramps and looking good...



but the petrol tank bracket and heat protection shield failed the OCD test and have to come off for a refresh. Alls going well with the tank removal until I come to remove the two M10 button head screws Now who in their right mind thought it was a good idea to use these in a position that you cannot access properly even with an Allen Key....



[url]

|https://thumbsnap.com/3u6YJm56[/url]

Whilst I could just paint over them thats not the way I tend to do things so over to you guys ....how the fk do I get them out??

Thanks... I have all winter!!

[TwinKam]

Short hex bit and a ratchet ring spanner.

[ray von]

Can't really tell on access but I'd make sure they have a good soak in 'proper' penetrating spray and, if you can, scrape any ste out of the hex before attempting to loosen them

[magpies]

ray von said:

Can't really tell on access but I'd make sure they have a good soak in 'proper' penetrating spray and, if you can, scrape any ste out of the hex before attempting to loosen them

something like Plus Gas

[JagerT]

Personally I wouldn't use a hex key to begin with,give it a good soaking and then try getting it to move initially using a small chisel on the edge in the direction of rotation,don't go mad and damage the socket,looking at that screw it will round off just using a key. Ideally you would get it red hot to loosen it but that doesn't look like an option due to it's location.

[TwinKam]

...if you do round out a fastener like this (or if corrosion has taken it out to a half size up!).... tap in a suitably slightly larger torx or spline bit, it will broach its own fit. You should be able to do that here despite the awkward access, use a short bit (they're usually 300mm long) and a long drift rather than trying to tap the bit directly. When you go to undo it, used a lever in that strap's D-shaped cut-out to force the bit into the fastener whilst you apply turning force.

[350Matt]

Try this stuff

https://www.mickgeorge.co.uk/arcci400-arctic-crack...

[phillpot]

350Matt said:

Try this stuff

good stuff, got me out of a jam in the past but those button heads round off so easily.

Mr Pessimist here reckons you'll be drilling the heads off

[roseytvr]

And the winner is ........

Mr fking Pessimist😡

Try all suggestions to no avail so out with the dremmil😲

Thanks for the input guys. Will let you know how I get on tomorrow

[Steve_D]

Rather than grinding the head off start by grinding a screwdriver slot in the head and use an impact screwdriver to shift them.

Steve

[phazed]

That looks like typical poor TVR powder coating Ian.

Hope you got it out!

[GAjon]

Might a small Irwin socket get a bite on it?

[roseytvr]

Thanks for the input chaps. An update on progress and questions on next step.

I tried the short hex bit and a ratchet ring spanner but unfortunately the spanner twisted. 7mm ring was all I could get in there. I also tried grinding a screwdriver slot in the head and use an impact screwdriver to shift them and a small chisel on the edge in the direction of rotation but its not having it. I can't get a small Irwin socket on it as the bolt head is above the bottom of the bracket so no access. I have grinder the caps off, removed the bracket and petrol tank - success, lol. The good news is whilst the bracket is heavily corroded the chassis is exceptional

They are now well and truly soaked, Plus gas three times a day all week. The question now is how do I get the studs out?






Access is good and as I see it I have four options:

1 Heat it up and mole grip it out - the only downside with this may be damaging the powder coating all around the area.
2 The studs are slotted and I can get an impact screwdriver on them - tried this and not budged but I am worried i might just knock the stud and nut head in the chassis straight through which just causes me more grief so I haven't given it the full treatment.
3 I could weld a nut on the stud and try a socket on it to get them out.
4 I could cut off the protruding stud, drill them and use stud extractors on them but a bit worried about snapping the extractor head off and leaving it in there.

So over to you guys in the know - what would you do?

[phazed]

I always use a pair of Stillson‘s, a small set which I keep the sort of jobs.
They are so much better than mole grips as the teeth work in one direction only and they never fail to grip and extract.

[Classic Chim]

I’d probably try all of those ideas then settle on cutting the bolts off flush, dot punching and drilling them out. Re tap threads if you nip them and jobs a good un.
Heat would be the easiest way to free those bolts but I’d avoid that for the coatings sake.

[N7GTX]

Weld a nut on it. 2 advantages - 1} you then have a much bigger fastener to turn giving greater leverage and 2) the heat from welding will travel along the stud and help loosen it.

[popop430]

Ditto

[roseytvr]

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tool-connection-tc...


one out one to go, but its still putting up a fight. Soon be beer time

[Steve_D]

Before you go back in with the extractor give the end of the stud a good pounding on the end which will help break the rust bond.

Steve

[phillpot]

Now is the time for the freeze spray