Lanoguard underbody protection
Discussion
ian-2mym1 said:
Thinking of getting some for some underbody protection on a few cars we own. anybody used it?
Pros and cons?
Just my opinion. If it's rusty, nothing getting sprayed or painted on to it is going to prevent it from being an issue going forward. Complete removal is the only thing that makes me confident of a long term outcome. I'm old school about stuff like this though. And I'm putting my money where my mouth is, I'm just about to start a thread asking what is the best angle grinder / drill attachment is best for rust removal to get back to bright metal.Pros and cons?
If anyone has any real world experience of doing things any other way that actually provides a genuine long term solution, I'd love to know.
They certainly appear to spend a lot of money on marketing/advertising.
Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.
https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...
Cheers,
Chris
Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.
https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...
Cheers,
Chris
I used lanoguard on my pretty rusty MK2 Octavia last year. Didn't treat the rust beforehand, just a good wire brush and pressure wash clean. Applied to all external surfaces and injected into both sills.
A year later at re application time it was clear the rust hadn't progressed (the external that I could see obviously )I was happy with it- handy you can clearly see the state of the underside of the car as it's clear unlike other treatments where the rust can continue.
Very quick and easy to use. Since sold the octy but I'd happily use it again.
A year later at re application time it was clear the rust hadn't progressed (the external that I could see obviously )I was happy with it- handy you can clearly see the state of the underside of the car as it's clear unlike other treatments where the rust can continue.
Very quick and easy to use. Since sold the octy but I'd happily use it again.
Thought this might interest: https://youtu.be/F2o3RYWBeAI?si=LbOCktrL2SzCwMgs
Basically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.
Basically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.
I've just re-applied it on mine (done from new) although it probably didn't need it. 5k through a wet and salty Scottish winter doesn't seem to have affected it at all.
Stripped down the brakes to do the back plates and hubs and there were patches of rust on the back of the hubs where I previously missed application.
Garage stank of sheep for a week. A disposable car sized polythene cover is a good idea as fine spray fallout gets everywhere and is a sod to get off.
24-48hrs to properly cure before driving in the rain or through standing water, 12hrs or so in dry summer weather but still takes longer to fully cure.
Beats everything else I've tried over the last 5 decades.
Stripped down the brakes to do the back plates and hubs and there were patches of rust on the back of the hubs where I previously missed application.
Garage stank of sheep for a week. A disposable car sized polythene cover is a good idea as fine spray fallout gets everywhere and is a sod to get off.
24-48hrs to properly cure before driving in the rain or through standing water, 12hrs or so in dry summer weather but still takes longer to fully cure.
Beats everything else I've tried over the last 5 decades.
Grenadier_45 said:
Thought this might interest: https://youtu.be/F2o3RYWBeAI?si=LbOCktrL2SzCwMgs
Basically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.
It's fine on a utilitarian vehicle like a truck or cheap shed, but if it's a classic or other car that you really care about then I find the layer of sBasically he's just sprayed Fluid Film (or similar Lanolin based coatings as he says), and not even bothered to clean it all up each year. Seems to have worked well, if you're not bothered by a level of unsightliness. And he can presumable jet wash it all off if he needs to do surgery to something under there. He's got a series going back 6 years showing how his and his father's trucks have fared in the rust belt.
t sprayed on the underside just far too messy and unsightly. Imagine having a brand new car that's pristine undeneath then spraying all that stty sludge everywhere :/Are there any similar products that are clear and far less sludge like?
Summit_Detailing said:
They certainly appear to spend a lot of money on marketing/advertising.
Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.
https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...
Cheers,
Chris
That's why it's currently trending then - marketing spend. Seems a wholly unsuitable product for the purpose.Anything Lanolin based doesn't last well, typically disappearing within a year (usage/conditions dependent), easily bettered by Bilt Hamber Dynax UB (brown) or UC (clear) or Dinitrol for actual long term protection.
https://bilthamber.com/dynax-s50-best-cavity-wax-t...
Cheers,
Chris
I have been using Dinitrol on mine, which seems to last well and avoids the hassle and expense of the annual lanolin treatments. Seems like a lot of marketing especially around Lanoguard but little in the way of proof.
To me, it’s going to be more cost-effective to use Dinitrol or similar.
To me, it’s going to be more cost-effective to use Dinitrol or similar.
Lanoguard doesn't dry cure and attracts dust and grime. After almost 3 weeks with my wheels and liners off sat in free flowing air, the coating has not and will not cure. It is still tacky to the touch and as a result the farm-esque stench will not disappear either. Lanoguard's response was that I must have put too-thick a coating on, which is nonsense. I deliberately applied it sparingly having experienced the same issue on my XKR. Certainly wouldn't recommend. I'll be going back to dinitrol which although is black and covers up the naked metal, at least it cures properly and lasts.
5s Alive said:
I've just re-applied it on mine (done from new) although it probably didn't need it. 5k through a wet and salty Scottish winter doesn't seem to have affected it at all.
Stripped down the brakes to do the back plates and hubs and there were patches of rust on the back of the hubs where I previously missed application.
Garage stank of sheep for a week. A disposable car sized polythene cover is a good idea as fine spray fallout gets everywhere and is a sod to get off.
24-48hrs to properly cure before driving in the rain or through standing water, 12hrs or so in dry summer weather but still takes longer to fully cure.
Beats everything else I've tried over the last 5 decades.
Couldn't agree more. LanoGaurd has been awesome on my D-Max for the past...... 40k miles. I apply it every September.Stripped down the brakes to do the back plates and hubs and there were patches of rust on the back of the hubs where I previously missed application.
Garage stank of sheep for a week. A disposable car sized polythene cover is a good idea as fine spray fallout gets everywhere and is a sod to get off.
24-48hrs to properly cure before driving in the rain or through standing water, 12hrs or so in dry summer weather but still takes longer to fully cure.
Beats everything else I've tried over the last 5 decades.
This year I missed September due to work commitments and applied it to a damp D-Max in a damp unit. It has been a very poor job compared to previous years but, lesson learned! Re-application in April (Srping) in a slightly less damp environment.
In my eyes at the moment it is better than nothing considering the poor ambient conditions.
It is cracking kit on the underbody and chassis components NOT directly in the tyre spray field! What more can you ask for, please show me a product that will withstand direct spray from the salty roads (of Scotland).
Cheers guys
It is an easy DIY product to install but does need topping up depending on use. I do use it on chassis parts such as subframes to give additional protection but wouldn't bother spraying it on the body parts of the underside of the cars I have as they are already well protected from factory.
I do use Bilt Hamber cavity wax for the box sections.
Most products need an element of topping i.e waxoil and equivalents, lanoguard probably needs topping up more so but on balance it is really easy to apply.
If something is already rusty, i.e. an axle, ideally it needs to come off the car and be sorted properly. However if it's just your daily then apply something like Lanogaurd or Waxoil or etc etc will help slow down the inevitable so imo it is still worth the application. Lanoguard has the advantage of being very easy to apply.
Edit to add though, on my older car where I have had the axles and subframe off for refurbishment I haven't applied lanoguard as I don't want a sticky surface. I only use it on daily cars to protect them.
I do use Bilt Hamber cavity wax for the box sections.
Most products need an element of topping i.e waxoil and equivalents, lanoguard probably needs topping up more so but on balance it is really easy to apply.
If something is already rusty, i.e. an axle, ideally it needs to come off the car and be sorted properly. However if it's just your daily then apply something like Lanogaurd or Waxoil or etc etc will help slow down the inevitable so imo it is still worth the application. Lanoguard has the advantage of being very easy to apply.
Edit to add though, on my older car where I have had the axles and subframe off for refurbishment I haven't applied lanoguard as I don't want a sticky surface. I only use it on daily cars to protect them.
Edited by VeeReihenmotor6 on Friday 13th December 11:21
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