Fuel pump cavitation.. at a loss

Fuel pump cavitation.. at a loss

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Oiyou

Original Poster:

57 posts

106 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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Evening All, long time lurker here but now at a loss.

Since re-installing my fuel tank I've had an intermittent fuel problem which is rendering the car undriveable.

The pump will go from wirring away quietly to making a noise like a dentist drill and the engine dies. Sit for a few minutes and you can drive another couple of miles and repeat.

The (Bosch) pump is new, tank to pump hose is new, the tank has recently been out and I replaced the internal filter with an external one before the fuel pump. Checked that and it's clean. Oh and the fuel tank is confirmed full.

The pump always has power, but will suddenly go from quiet too sounding like its running dry.

Thoughts anyone? I'm at total loss now!

sunbeam alpine

6,941 posts

188 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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Could it be a blocked tank vent making it harder for the pump to draw fuel?

Try driving with the fuel cap off/loose to test.

Had this on one of my cars. Garage (and I) were at a loss. My 84-year -old neighbour's suggestion fixed it!

Oiyou

Original Poster:

57 posts

106 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
quotequote all
Wouldn't credit the tank seal that much but will give it a try!

Cheers

v8s4me

7,240 posts

219 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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I'm having a very similar problem on my Tasmin. To solve it I'm going to try fitting this...



It's a central heating air separator. It holds 150cc which should be enough to keep the pump primed on most corners. Top vertical will be a vent back to the tank, top horizontal will be fuel in and the bottom one fuel to the back of the pump. What do you think?

Steve_D

13,737 posts

258 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
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My thoughts would also be lack of venting to the tank.
Second would be the new filter. a filter fitted before the pump needs to be quite coarse so that there is a good flow. Pumps do not like restrictions at the inlet.

Steve

Oiyou

Original Poster:

57 posts

106 months

Saturday 15th April 2017
quotequote all
Thanks both!
Going to give the vent a try tomorrow. If that fails I'll take the element out of filter and see if that improves matters.

I like the mini accumulator idea, I'll be keen to hear how that goes. I did have thoughts of fitting a lift pump and header fuel tank in the boot, which is a more complicated way of doing the same thing.

bearman68

4,652 posts

132 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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I had a mondeo once upon a time. It would intermittently stop. Start up and drive fine, and then stop. After changing many parts, I found the (oh the irony) little 'quality' sticker had fallen down into the pump chamber. Every now and again it was covering the pump inlet. It took bloody ages to find, dropped the tank twice, and £?00's of punds of parts. Dear god it was a mare.

GreenV8S

30,181 posts

284 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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Oiyou said:
I replaced the internal filter with an external one before the fuel pump.
Was that trying to fix this problem, or for some other reason? Fuel injection pumps are great at pushing against back-pressure on the outlet but very bad at pulling against suction on the inlet. The resistance of a normal fuel filter could be enough to provoke cavitation in the pump and effectively stall it. If you're going to fit something to keep debris out of the pump, it needs to be a relatively coarse strainer rather then a conventional fuel filter. The main filter, of course, needs to be downstream of the pump.

v8s4me

7,240 posts

219 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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If you want to fit a pre-filter then you could try THIS. It looks like it has quite a generous capacity and if you mount it vertically it might act like a small surge tank and keep the pump primed in short corners. Just a thought.

Alan Whitaker

2,054 posts

182 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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I would look at the way you have installed the pipe from the tank to the pump, you don't need the internal filter if you have a external fuel pump pre-filter. A 100 micron pre filter would be a good choice and a 10 micron post filter would be a better option. Like GreenV8s some pumps don't like to suck against a suction, Which bosch pump have you fitted. I would also see if you have something still in the tank being sucked into the sump and restricting the fuel. Bosch pumps are good at sucking so there must be something in what you have done since re fitting the tank and pump.
Another thing about Bosch pumps is they don't like to suck fuel they need to be as close to and as low as you can get them so you have a gravity feed to the pump

Edited by Alan Whitaker on Sunday 16th April 10:33

Oiyou

Original Poster:

57 posts

106 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
quotequote all
I'll have a look at the routing, tried fuel cap off and filter removed this morning to no avail.

It is very like the pump is mounted too high. Some days it'll drive for half an hour fine. Then the rest of the time 2 minutes is all you'll get.

TVRees

1,080 posts

112 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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There may be some useful info here

LINK

page 85 for system description and page 113 for testing fuel delivery for the 2.8 engine.



GreenV8S

30,181 posts

284 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
quotequote all
Oiyou said:
It is very like the pump is mounted too high.
Where is it mounted?

I've got a Bosch 044 mounted in the original position behind the nsr tyre with the original in-tank strainer setup and it flows twice as much as the original without any problems.

Oiyou

Original Poster:

57 posts

106 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
quotequote all
It's in its original position, I'm beginning to suspect something in the tank that's at liberty to block at the aperture.

It will run perfectly at idle for hours but will cavitate again when I turn around on the sloped yard.

Oh well, tank out time again!

GreenV8S

30,181 posts

284 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
quotequote all
Suggest you hot-wire a fused 12v supply directly from the battery to the pump just to rule out any electrical problems. If the voltage is browning out, the pump will sound strange and lose pressure. There are several points in the supply circuit that are vulnerable to corrosion and for example the impact switch is also sensitive to side loads. A failing relay is often temperature sensitive and will run OK for a few minutes until it heats up, and then recover when it has been left to cool down for ten minutes.

phillpot

17,114 posts

183 months

Sunday 16th April 2017
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GreenV8S said:
If the voltage is browning out,
Had to Google that one.... teacher

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

204 months

Thursday 20th April 2017
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Have you changed the fuel hoses?

Under the bonnet the fuel rail connection which is a straight pipe comes from the pump, the connection with the pressure regulator is the return to the tank.


v8s4me

7,240 posts

219 months

Friday 21st April 2017
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This is the surge tank made from the air separator shown above....



If you think it looks like it was designed by a committee you'd be right. It took three of us in the plumbers merchant to come up with the right combination of parts laugh And with a splash of paint to make it look "proper".....



But does it work? Unfortunately I don't know yet. I couldn't get the hoses to seal properly on the small pipes. So the whole lot had to come off again so that these could be replaced with longer ones. Of course re-soldering these has loosened one of the adjacent joints which of course now leaks. For the time being the fuel lines have been reconnected back to normal. At least this way I'll find out whether the new pump makes any difference on its own. Once I'm down to the last gallon I'll have another go.

Oh yes, and the new copper washers on the pump banjo leak!

It's been a long day!

Steve_D

13,737 posts

258 months

Saturday 22nd April 2017
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v8s4me said:
.....Oh yes, and the new copper washers on the pump banjo leak!

It's been a long day!
Get some Dowty seal washers (also known as Bonded Seal washers) for that.

Steve

v8s4me

7,240 posts

219 months

Thursday 27th April 2017
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This the DIY surge tank plumbed in...



And it works!!!! The picture is skewed, the bottom of the tank is parallel to the ground. The bloody thing is still misfiring but now it's nothing to do with going around corners. Now it's doing it in a straight line banghead