Fiddling, should I, and what direction?
Discussion
Car is an ex-academy 1.6 (EU3). Believe it to be bone stock, as it was still sealed until I snipped the seal to inspect the cambelt. It does however have a kmaps ecu.
I've been thinking about fiddling because a) fiddling is fun, and b) I found it rather disappointingly linear/torquey(!).
Pulls well from 1500, really well from about 3k doesn't really seem to come 'on cam' especially. The only reason to take it out to the 7200 limit is to avoid using 5th.. (however I like and want to keep the 5 speed box because it tours too).
So, what would I want to achieve?
It would be nice if I had to be a bit more subtle with the throttle. Had the time of my life at a wet bedford, really having to work for my kicks/to hook up corner exits.. whereas at silverstone, as much as I enjoyed chucking it into the fast corners, it was a bit of a case of wait, then nail the throttle hard. I would stick with 13x6 all round, as I'd prefer it to be under-tyred, and I'm not really chasing laptime, more 'fun'.
Not sure how much I should be aiming for.. Maybe my driving needs to evolve..
My initial thoughts, were as I need to change the cambelt I may as well put some hotter cams in.. (man maths!). Question is, supersport cams, or?
Also thought that I can have a look at the plastic plenum - believe from the K engine page that there are some gains to be had there.
The stock short 4:1 exhaust doesn't look good.. but perhaps oddly I would prefer it was quieter than more noisy, which also puts me off throttle bodies, and maybe they're not much good without headwork..
I don't have the appetite or skills for porting the head or messing with valves (and no power in the garage).
I guess a lot of the above requires a ecu change, although I'd be quite tempted to get kmaps to re-map the existing.
The other thought that occurs is that getting hold of a 160 engine out of an MGF and swapping all or some of that over might be a valid avenue.. or is that more complicated than I think / heresy that will devalue the car?
Perhaps I'd be better to just sell the car as is and buy one that's already tickled.. but then I know mine and I'm kinda attached to it (it's also the only one I've ever driven).
I've been thinking about fiddling because a) fiddling is fun, and b) I found it rather disappointingly linear/torquey(!).
Pulls well from 1500, really well from about 3k doesn't really seem to come 'on cam' especially. The only reason to take it out to the 7200 limit is to avoid using 5th.. (however I like and want to keep the 5 speed box because it tours too).
So, what would I want to achieve?
It would be nice if I had to be a bit more subtle with the throttle. Had the time of my life at a wet bedford, really having to work for my kicks/to hook up corner exits.. whereas at silverstone, as much as I enjoyed chucking it into the fast corners, it was a bit of a case of wait, then nail the throttle hard. I would stick with 13x6 all round, as I'd prefer it to be under-tyred, and I'm not really chasing laptime, more 'fun'.
Not sure how much I should be aiming for.. Maybe my driving needs to evolve..
My initial thoughts, were as I need to change the cambelt I may as well put some hotter cams in.. (man maths!). Question is, supersport cams, or?
Also thought that I can have a look at the plastic plenum - believe from the K engine page that there are some gains to be had there.
The stock short 4:1 exhaust doesn't look good.. but perhaps oddly I would prefer it was quieter than more noisy, which also puts me off throttle bodies, and maybe they're not much good without headwork..
I don't have the appetite or skills for porting the head or messing with valves (and no power in the garage).
I guess a lot of the above requires a ecu change, although I'd be quite tempted to get kmaps to re-map the existing.
The other thought that occurs is that getting hold of a 160 engine out of an MGF and swapping all or some of that over might be a valid avenue.. or is that more complicated than I think / heresy that will devalue the car?
Perhaps I'd be better to just sell the car as is and buy one that's already tickled.. but then I know mine and I'm kinda attached to it (it's also the only one I've ever driven).
do you know the history of the car, when it was last raced as this would help identify the spec...if its raced in grads or with caterham there are lots of bods on here who can tell you the exact spec and depending on what you want to use the car for could give you some great advice on what to upgrade.
Being a 1.6k it could be a k series or sigma and if the former could be super or mega for example?
If track is your thing I would add an LSD and head to Dave for options on the motor. To be honest if you want a step change in performance then I would look at another car as tuning K and sigma 1.6 engines above 150 bhp gets very expensive.
Being a 1.6k it could be a k series or sigma and if the former could be super or mega for example?
If track is your thing I would add an LSD and head to Dave for options on the motor. To be honest if you want a step change in performance then I would look at another car as tuning K and sigma 1.6 engines above 150 bhp gets very expensive.
Having been in the same position a few years ago I picked up some SS cams, Piper verniers and a 2nd hand SS ECU. Oily sells a very similar package.
Very decent improvement for not much cash - most noticeably up the rev range on track. Where previously it would run out of puff above 5k it keeps pulling at 7k now. For a few quid more you could go with a fancy ECU. Next mod for me will either be front calipers or maybe a 4-2-1 exhaust.. just need to distract the wife for long enough.
Very decent improvement for not much cash - most noticeably up the rev range on track. Where previously it would run out of puff above 5k it keeps pulling at 7k now. For a few quid more you could go with a fancy ECU. Next mod for me will either be front calipers or maybe a 4-2-1 exhaust.. just need to distract the wife for long enough.
Ah, yes.. I thought I said, but it is indeed a rover k 1.6 in 120bhp form, plus whatever the kmaps ecu gives me.
It took me about 2 weeks to decide to fit an LSD - done
.. and I have indeed read Dave's page forwards backwards and sideways - very aware of what is available. Question is more subjective, upgrade this one (and how far should I go to make a 'worthwhile' change), vs swap the car, which would cost a bit..
The side idea which was noticing a 50k mile MGF with rust and a 160bhp k for sale at 500 quid. Rob the engine, scrap the car.. seemed a cheap way to a chunk more oomph, but can't help feeling I'm missing something.
I guess my inclination at the moment is cams/exhaust, if only because it's minimal disruption, and I could do the fitting myself, but equally I guess it's likely to yield a small increment.
It took me about 2 weeks to decide to fit an LSD - done
.. and I have indeed read Dave's page forwards backwards and sideways - very aware of what is available. Question is more subjective, upgrade this one (and how far should I go to make a 'worthwhile' change), vs swap the car, which would cost a bit..
The side idea which was noticing a 50k mile MGF with rust and a 160bhp k for sale at 500 quid. Rob the engine, scrap the car.. seemed a cheap way to a chunk more oomph, but can't help feeling I'm missing something.
I guess my inclination at the moment is cams/exhaust, if only because it's minimal disruption, and I could do the fitting myself, but equally I guess it's likely to yield a small increment.
If it's 120 bhp then it must be a Super Graduate or Roadsport.
Bit strange to have a sealed engine and K Maps ECU....having rolling roaded a locked Caterham race MEMS ECU and a K Maps ECU back to back, there was a bit more mid range torque (equating to 2-3 bhp) but it overfuelled at the top end so didn't make any more power. In summary, very little difference.
Bit strange to have a sealed engine and K Maps ECU....having rolling roaded a locked Caterham race MEMS ECU and a K Maps ECU back to back, there was a bit more mid range torque (equating to 2-3 bhp) but it overfuelled at the top end so didn't make any more power. In summary, very little difference.
Really? I'm guessing the 120 - I believe that's approximately what an entirely vanilla 1.6k delivers.. it's a 2006 1.6 academy car, turned roadcar. I believe the ECU went to kmaps to get the immobiliser deleted, and got a map put on it at the same time.
I've been told various things about the kmaps map, wasn't expecting any extra power really; the main thing I expect is less holes in the midrange.
As for cracked pistons, I'd hope not.. I know there's a limit beyond which they eventually don't do so well (7200 iirc), but they live plenty well in other cars.
I've been told various things about the kmaps map, wasn't expecting any extra power really; the main thing I expect is less holes in the midrange.
As for cracked pistons, I'd hope not.. I know there's a limit beyond which they eventually don't do so well (7200 iirc), but they live plenty well in other cars.
Edited by upsidedownmark on Friday 22 December 16:56
Getting back to the question, your options: Dropping a rover engine isn't quite that straightforward. You'll need to swap sumps, grind various bits off the crankcase and probably some other stuff. Also worth bearing in mind the 160 is the 1.8 engine - longer stroke so different characteristics. I'm sure this will be the cheapest option but it comes with some faff.
You already know the cost of upping your current engine - 20hp cheap, 60hp expensive and everything in between. Plenty will tell you your car will always be an academy so you might want to consider whether you'll get your money back, but if it's a keeper you might not. I fall into the latter category.
'Original' faster K's (SLRs, R400s etc) sell for a premium but will probably hold their value if you'll be selling again.
Which is for you? Pay your money and take your choice. If your only track time has been bedford, then bear in mind it has some unusually long fast sections. You'll do well at most tracks by using the qualities of the car to carry speed - if you don't slow down you don't need 200bhp to accelerate again :-)
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