New owner - Compression test ?'s

[djwhittaker14]

Hi everyone,

I am now the happy owner of a lightly used R400D 2007.

Got the car home today after a nice drive and Oil P and Water temp all looks stable. I am looking to do a compression test but before I dive in just want to know the best way to cut fuel off from the engine (have read about using the inertia switch but when pressed earlier couldn't see a way to reset it?) and whether or not I should remove the low tension side from the coil plugs beforehand as well.

Only other I thing noticed on inspection was the coolant is well above the Max fill line in the expansion bottle (is this an issue should I remove some?) and has a light brown tinge to it feels fairly silky (no bubbles of milkyness {probably not a word}).

The breather tank from the back of the cam cover also has a small amount of green liquid in it, I am assuming this is the normal colour I should expect? I will keep an eye on the level over the next few miles.

Any help greatly appreciated and if anyone is in the Reading area that can show me the ins and outs of the car that would be awesome.

[anonymous-user]

I have a 2015 R400D, one of the last. Disconnect the wires from the inertia switch with the single connector, stop fuel and sparks. The work of a second to take off and replace. I do that every year to spin it over and get some oil pressure before I start after winter lay up.

Can’t help you with compression figures, I’ve never thought about it. What mileage has the car done? Good maintenance record? What power is it? Does it run well? Dry sump, wet sump?

My coolant is pink and it’s just on the max line in the heater tank. Maybe yours is due for a change? Mine is dry sumped so has the breather bottle fed from the tank, but there’s rarely anything in it, just a little oily water. Perhaps yours is the same but the water is just forming mould?

To be honest, the engine’s the last thing you need to worry about, IME. I’ve just paid out for a full rebuild of my LSD, which was on its last legs. At 8000 miles. The bill was the equivalent of 10p/mile........

Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 13th June 18:07

Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 13th June 18:08

[djwhittaker14]

Thanks for that, so just remove the wiring loom plug from the bottom of the switch?

Car has only done 3800 miles. Was off the road for a 9 year period between 2009-2018. Had a recommissioning service then by Williams in Bristol post that has done another 1000 miles to take it to the 3800 figure.

[djwhittaker14]

Sorry forgot to answer the other. It’s a raceline branded wet sump looking through the service receipts it does look like the coolant could be due a change. I assume this is fairly simple matter of draining the rad and tank then refilling with the correct amount in accordance with the handbook?

[anonymous-user]

I would definitely replace the coolant. Assuming the standard rad, drain plug at bottom. Undo carefully, should be fine but can crack weld if overtightened or possibly corroded in.

The Duratec normally fills very well. Fill through expansion bottle then take out small plug on top of rad to bleed air out. You may need to bleed a bit at the heater pipe but usually just run and the air will come out, top up later.

Yes, just unplug the wiring loom plug from the inertia switch. You just press in the locking piece and pull off. Simply push back on till it clicks into place.

I would give it a few miles then do a full spanner check. Diff bolts can work loose on the Ford diff, which I think you’ll have.

My car’s been quite good in that respect but all my nuts and bolts are marked with white paint so I can visually check.

Did the brake fluid get changed?

[djwhittaker14]

Brake fluid was changed. I will do the coolant next week (comma g30 or the motul stuff seems to be the preferred liquid) looking through the receipts and at the car it appears to have the triple radiator?? I will double check again tomorrow. It also appears to have green witness marks on most of the bolts so will double check them. Thanks for the help much appreciated

[BertBert]

I'm just curious as to why you want to do a compression test? Also would a leakdown be more use?

[djwhittaker14]

No real reason as Ts and Ps for the fluids look good but I bought the kit and fancy a go at it. Will give me an idea how closely matched the cylinders are and a small insight into engine condition. I would go for a leak down test but don’t have that kit available.

[BertBert]

djwhittaker14 said:

No real reason as Ts and Ps for the fluids look good but I bought the kit and fancy a go at it. Will give me an idea how closely matched the cylinders are and a small insight into engine condition. I would go for a leak down test but don’t have that kit available.

makes sense. I'm always nervous of doing such things as you find something that isn't quite what you expect, chase it down and find it was ok anyway!
Have fun with it and let us know what numbers you get!
Bert

[djwhittaker14]

Test result were all good. All cylinders in between 220-230psi (after 4 revolutions) No.2 the highest No.1 lowest. If anyone is going to do the same thing don’t by the Draper tester as it wasn’t great and the pressure release occasionally failed resulting in a lot of jumping in and out of the car. Thanks for the tip on removing the inertia switch plug worked a treat. Coolant arrives tomorrow so that is the next job. Any other tips on changing that would be great.

[HustleRussell]

Are you observing the coolant level with the engine cold or hot?

[djwhittaker14]

I've checked both it appears to be higher when hot and slightly lower when cold although above the max line in both cases. I did check the bleed bolt on the radiator for any air but fluid came out straight away. I've read about disconnecting the heater T-Piece when replacing the coolant, some salt its worth while others that any air will work its way out of the heater?? I am assuming it is the heater T piece that the cable for the heater controls by the right knee is connected to?

[anonymous-user]

Could you post a pic of your rad, it would help to know best way to drain and fill.

[djwhittaker14]

Hopefully this works.

[anonymous-user]

Yes, that works. Looks the same as the rad on my car.

The bolt head on the top there is duplicated other side bottom. That’s where I drain from.

I fill through the expansion bottle then take out that top bolt until the water comes right up. Replace, top up to level. That’s it.

The thing is, when I built my car the first radiator leaked. They replaced it but that leaked too. They sent me a third, which, you’ve guessed it, leaked.

By this time I’d lost a bit of faith so had one of two I had kept repaired myself. That’s been fine since.

I tell you all this because it shows that I’ve drained and refilled the car several times. Never had any airlock issues simply doing what I said. In the early days I did once crack the heater hose but there was no air there and I’ve never bothered since.

[anonymous-user]

I remember I drained it another time because I had a slight winter leak from the bottom hose connection to rad. (When car had been stood for weeks in garage.)

I pulled bottom hose and fitted a short piece of bicycle inner tube on the alloy stub and refitted the hose. Worked brilliantly.

[djwhittaker14]

Great thanks for that will have a crack tomorrow