Fuel pump permanently on
Discussion
I've also been researching and found this diagram which I am struggling to decipher.
http://www.tom-seven.stillgame.ch/Main/Fuel_pump_l...
Not sure if it helps?
http://www.tom-seven.stillgame.ch/Main/Fuel_pump_l...
Not sure if it helps?
DCL thanks for all the info much appreciated. I have just been to the garage and put the plug back together, the pump is still coming on with the master cut off switched on. I am assuming now the diode is bust so will source another one. Hopefully that solves it.
As an aside having just been out there to check there is a significant (circa 2-3 second) pause before the pump turns on after switching the master cut off on. However when the ignition is switched off there is no pause the pump just runs straight away! So I am assuming that relay closes after the power is initially supplied to the circuit and then remains closed (only interrupted by the ignition and immobiliser). This could potentially point to the diode being unserviceable as I would assume that it should stop the initial signal from the battery (post making the master cut off ON).
Not sure what your thoughts are on my simplified thought process?
As an aside having just been out there to check there is a significant (circa 2-3 second) pause before the pump turns on after switching the master cut off on. However when the ignition is switched off there is no pause the pump just runs straight away! So I am assuming that relay closes after the power is initially supplied to the circuit and then remains closed (only interrupted by the ignition and immobiliser). This could potentially point to the diode being unserviceable as I would assume that it should stop the initial signal from the battery (post making the master cut off ON).
Not sure what your thoughts are on my simplified thought process?
Can't see an open circuit diode causing a problem
A short circuit diode could cause a problem
Disconnecting the diode is the same as having an open circuit diode
If the diode is short circuit, removing it should stop the pump if the diode is causing the problem
Part number of the MFRU may help
Know of 2 types, there could be more
EU2 MFRU Internal Schematic (YWB10022)
A short circuit diode could cause a problem
Disconnecting the diode is the same as having an open circuit diode
If the diode is short circuit, removing it should stop the pump if the diode is causing the problem
Part number of the MFRU may help
Know of 2 types, there could be more
EU2 MFRU Internal Schematic (YWB10022)
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 19th October 13:13
Ok then
Removing the diode turns the pump off, that's good
As far as I can make out, the diode is in series with the Green/Pink fuel pump relay ignition supply, the supply will probably be fused
If I'm correct with the above, the diode is in the circuit to prevent a faulty MFRU from keeping the ignition on when it's turned off.
If water got into the MFRU or a relay shorted out, it is possible that the MFRU would supply the ignition
Removing the diode turns the pump off, that's good
As far as I can make out, the diode is in series with the Green/Pink fuel pump relay ignition supply, the supply will probably be fused
If I'm correct with the above, the diode is in the circuit to prevent a faulty MFRU from keeping the ignition on when it's turned off.
If water got into the MFRU or a relay shorted out, it is possible that the MFRU would supply the ignition
This is your MFRU
Here's the 6 way plug
Here's the 8 way plug
Ignore where it mentions Pin 8-1 is not used
The main fuel pump fuse should connect to Pin 8-1
The Caterham MFRU might operate in a similar way to the below Honda circuit (Don't know what ECU you're running)
That should be all the information needed to trace the fault
Need to re-read your earlier posts about the fault and have a think
Will visit back tomorrow if not sooner
Here's the 6 way plug
Here's the 8 way plug
Ignore where it mentions Pin 8-1 is not used
The main fuel pump fuse should connect to Pin 8-1
The Caterham MFRU might operate in a similar way to the below Honda circuit (Don't know what ECU you're running)
That should be all the information needed to trace the fault
Need to re-read your earlier posts about the fault and have a think
Will visit back tomorrow if not sooner
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Monday 19th October 20:20
Fuel pump circuit simple version
Pin 8-1 to Main Fuel Pump Fuse
Pin 8-4 to Fuel Pump
Pin 6-2 to ignition controlled supply (possibly from MFRU Main Relay) @ Green/Pink Cable with safety diode wired in series with it
Pin 6-1 to ECU timer switched negative or fuel pump relay timer unit (includes 3 second priming and run)
Pin 8-1 to Main Fuel Pump Fuse
Pin 8-4 to Fuel Pump
Pin 6-2 to ignition controlled supply (possibly from MFRU Main Relay) @ Green/Pink Cable with safety diode wired in series with it
Pin 6-1 to ECU timer switched negative or fuel pump relay timer unit (includes 3 second priming and run)
As was posted earlier, logic says it's something that's been disturbed
If I've got it wrong about the diode......it could be stopping a reverse voltage that holds the fuel pump relay in, someone mentioned all of this earlier
Have you definitely fitted the diode the correct way and have you tested it?
???Does disconnecting the ECU stop the pump from running???
If I've got it wrong about the diode......it could be stopping a reverse voltage that holds the fuel pump relay in, someone mentioned all of this earlier
Have you definitely fitted the diode the correct way and have you tested it?
???Does disconnecting the ECU stop the pump from running???
djwhittaker14 said:
I stupidly thought it was the spare connection for the oil temp sensor (not fitted to my car, that I was fitting). So I stripped it down and fitted the cable and sensor to check at which point I realised it wasn’t
Mmmm, hadn't taken this in yesterdayBlown a fuse????
Penelope thanks for all the help sorry in my delayed reply been working nights. I’ve checked all the fuses that I think could be related and they are fine.
The only thing I fiddled with was the plastic connector and diode, the MFRU could have been damaged by my actions I suppose although it seems to be functioning and I can here the relay making initially when the master cut off is supplied.
I will check to see of the pump works with the ECU unplugged but I am 99% confident it will not run. The ecu is an MBE type standard Caterham fit.
I have some new diodes in the post and am hoping this will cure it, I have been unable to test the current one as I don’t have the right equipment. I believe it should be installed as DCL mentioned with the silver band toward the wire going into the MFRU, but I have tried it in both directions and it makes no difference. My hopeful belief is that it’s failed short and is now just acting as a wire.
The only thing I fiddled with was the plastic connector and diode, the MFRU could have been damaged by my actions I suppose although it seems to be functioning and I can here the relay making initially when the master cut off is supplied.
I will check to see of the pump works with the ECU unplugged but I am 99% confident it will not run. The ecu is an MBE type standard Caterham fit.
I have some new diodes in the post and am hoping this will cure it, I have been unable to test the current one as I don’t have the right equipment. I believe it should be installed as DCL mentioned with the silver band toward the wire going into the MFRU, but I have tried it in both directions and it makes no difference. My hopeful belief is that it’s failed short and is now just acting as a wire.
Penelope you are probably right to be honest, my knowledge of the circuitry is limited.
In good news I have just fitted a new diode and it has cured the problem so I must have damaged the last one when removing it.
Big thanks to DCL and Penelope for helping me out with this one and saving some cash (£2 for 10 diodes was the total cost), if you are in or visiting the Reading area anytime send me a message I owe you both a beer.
In good news I have just fitted a new diode and it has cured the problem so I must have damaged the last one when removing it.
Big thanks to DCL and Penelope for helping me out with this one and saving some cash (£2 for 10 diodes was the total cost), if you are in or visiting the Reading area anytime send me a message I owe you both a beer.
There might be something connected to the MBE ECU fuel pump relay negative switching circuit that goes positive when the ignition is turned off and it holds the relay in as the other side of the relay goes negative with ignition off, doesn't take many volts to hold a relay in
Unless the MBE ECU fuel pump relay switching circuit goes positive with ignition off, can't see it though
The diode will stop the above from happening
DCL gets the Blue Peter Badge
The diode must have gone short circuit, doesn't happen so often, diodes tend to go open circuit far more often
All that's now needed is a diagram
Would enjoy finding out why a diode was used in the first place
Bombarded you with information as it may have saved an electrician some time in working out the circuit, time is money
Would have been nice to one day visit Reading, see the car and have a beer, not been to the UK for many years and won't be visiting in the future
Thank you for the offer
If anyone does have a proper schematic diagram please post it here
Unless the MBE ECU fuel pump relay switching circuit goes positive with ignition off, can't see it though
The diode will stop the above from happening
DCL gets the Blue Peter Badge
DCL said:
I would simply check the diode with an ohm meter (replace if required), and put it back together as it was - the silver band on the diode goes to the round end of the plug which is the wire that goes to the MFU, and not one that goes further into the harness.
Nice resultThe diode must have gone short circuit, doesn't happen so often, diodes tend to go open circuit far more often
All that's now needed is a diagram
Would enjoy finding out why a diode was used in the first place
Bombarded you with information as it may have saved an electrician some time in working out the circuit, time is money
Would have been nice to one day visit Reading, see the car and have a beer, not been to the UK for many years and won't be visiting in the future
Thank you for the offer
If anyone does have a proper schematic diagram please post it here
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Wednesday 21st October 15:07
I think the key to it is that the MBE ECU has a permanent 12v to it and all the switching is solid state. When the ignition is off all the outputs are effectively in their 'on' (ground) state. The sensors are comparator circuits that use a reference voltage which probably exists on the sensor input when the ignition is off.
Sorry to jump on post, looking for some urgent help! I bought a caterham 1.6 road sport three weeks ago it’s a 2019 plate, been running fine till Sunday when it felt a bit jumpy driving around, refuelled after been driving for around an hour then tonight when I started it, it blew a massive ball of grey smoke out the exhaust then when I went to rev it, it stalled and now I have an engine warning light on.
Would appreciate any thought on what this could be as I’m not much of a mechanic??
Again sorry for jumping on post
Would appreciate any thought on what this could be as I’m not much of a mechanic??
Again sorry for jumping on post
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