Terry's tale. (S3 resto ++)

Terry's tale. (S3 resto ++)

Author
Discussion

magpies

5,129 posts

181 months

Thursday 24th September 2020
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great stuff - will soon be on the road - keep your chin(s) up biggrin

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Thursday 24th September 2020
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Cheers M... It (they) are def dragging on the floor at the mo.
Although a chat today with Bara at Bara Motorsports did give me confidence that he can fix it (my duff diff).
I'm taking it there tomorrow....


chiefyo

279 posts

164 months

Saturday 26th September 2020
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Terry thanks for taking the time to write up and photo the steering work. It definitely helps

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Saturday 26th September 2020
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You're still more than welcome to come over and have a good look. It's on the lift, and not going anywhere soon, as it's diff less !!
T.

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Monday 5th October 2020
quotequote all
My dodgy diff gets fixed....

In just 7 days turn around Bara Motorsports fixed my diff. In short it needed another rebuild, this time using new bearings, seals, shims, etc. Plus a rebuild & recalibration of the viscous LSD.
I did feel that it was right & proper that I got in touch with the original supplier. In short an amicable settlement was agreed & concluded. There did appear to be a specific reason why the diff was supplied to me substandard, but the details are rather sad (and personal) to that supplier. So I'll leave it at that.
Yesterday and today I flexed my old muscles and lifted it back into place... A couple of safety rope tethers in place just in case.
Anyway it's in, just the prop, the drive shafts, the exhaust to refit, then I'm back on track.
One point to note...
The diff sits in a cradle, fixed to it at x4 points.
The driver's side front bolt (19mm head) sits in a recess, which is obscured by the chassis rail.
A great TVR design feature.
I have changed that bolt to a cap head bolt, where a 10mm Allen key gives much better access..... For next time... Ha !!
TB.


v8s4me

7,234 posts

218 months

Monday 5th October 2020
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Blue 30 said:
........A great TVR design feature.....
"TVR" and "design" in the same sentence? No, it can't be laugh

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Sunday 11th October 2020
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phillpot said:
No, couldn't live with that laugh

Being as Mike P didn't like it, it had to go...


Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Tuesday 20th October 2020
quotequote all
Steering/suspension geometry, and ride height.

It's about time I got the above sorted. Well, at least as close as I could at home.
First job was to accurately level my 4-post lift, then make sure the tyre pressures were all good. What to do first..... Ride height.
But there is just too much info on the wiki, so I chose hopefully a happy medium. That being 160mm at the front, measured ground to the square chassis tube directly adj to the round steering rack tube. And, 170mm at the back, again ground to square chassis tube adj to the round trailing arm mounting tubes.
This appears to give visually pleasing gaps tyres to body.....
Next to do was the camber, both back and front. The back wheels were both 0.5o neg camber +/- 0.25o between them, so not worth messing with.
I had already rough set the fronts earlier just using a builders spirit level, nudging the bubble off centre to give a bit of neg camber.
This time I made my own camber gauge, using some unistrut, and a digital level box. Knowing true vertical means the level box will show accurate figures. Well, my eye must have been 'in' previously, as they were both 1o neg camber +/- 0.25o. So again not worth messing with. That's until I have driven it of course.
The toe adjustment is just set at a rough parallel at the moment. I'll accurately set that to 0.5o toe in, later with a tracking gauge I have.
As I say, it all looks okay, but it'll be a while before it gets road tested to settle things down.
I'll review it at that point.
Next big task is to get the ECU software set on a rolling road. But after discussion with Emerald, my nearest respected RR tuner is 'Kits & Classics' at Chesterfield. But Jools can't fit it in until at least the new year, which at least gives me time to find a transport guy.
So it looks like I'll be just tinkering with odd cosmetic jobs until then.

Home made camber bar and level box.


Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 20th October 15:58


Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 20th October 15:59


Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 20th October 17:00

mk1fan

10,507 posts

224 months

Tuesday 20th October 2020
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Nice power steering set up.

magpies

5,129 posts

181 months

Tuesday 20th October 2020
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pretty good start up set upsmile. I'd go slightly more camber (1.5deg), but that is a personal choice/feel. Are you using 15" wheels?

Are you on one or two Lambdas?

Jools is good, will the base map not get you up and drive to Chesterfield?

If you let me know when, I'll pop down.

I will cut the bonnet for you this weekend

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Wednesday 21st October 2020
quotequote all
magpies said:
pretty good start up set upsmile. I'd go slightly more camber (1.5deg), but that is a personal choice/feel. Are you using 15" wheels?

Are you on one or two Lambdas?

Jools is good, will the base map not get you up and drive to Chesterfield?

If you let me know when, I'll pop down.

I will cut the bonnet for you this weekend
Hi M.
Yes, the geometry setup is just as a starting point, and to prevent any damage to tyres etc.
All standard 15" wheels & new Proxi tyres.
No lambdas, fixed maps.
Flatbed transportation to/from Jools (in the new year).
Hope to see you there.
Thanks for the bonnet section.
T.

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Tuesday 8th December 2020
quotequote all
No much to report on the run up to Christmas, although I am now booked in for my rolling road Emerald ECU mapping session with Jools at Kits & Classics, that's during the 2nd week in Jan.
Once home (subject to all things RR related being okay), I will spend the rest of the winter & spring turning it into a fully usable car.
Here's a photo of it out on the drive today, first time for a while, and nearly looking like a car too....
TB.


Spanish S2

340 posts

131 months

Tuesday 8th December 2020
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Very nice, looking sharp.

magpies

5,129 posts

181 months

Tuesday 8th December 2020
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I like the way you have retained the standard bonnet.
I recon we could almost have a flat S4 type bonnet.

88S1

715 posts

60 months

Thursday 10th December 2020
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Good to see her out of the garage and looking swish. Look forward to hearing the report after your mapping.

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Sunday 31st January 2021
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Now I've stopped crying...

Well, the Dyno rolling road session didn't quite go to plan.
Off the car went transported at 06:00 Monday morning a couple of weeks ago.
After the operator got to know the car, settled it down on the rollers, got it up to temp, all gauge readings okay, gear selections okay. It was time to flex the Jag AJ engine, little by little. A couple of hours in, the lights went out !!!
By that I mean the car just died.
Hands up time... My fault, too little of a fuse rating in my new inline ignition main supply from the boot (battery).... Fix that & have lunch.
Now it gets serious, introducing power runs.
But....
A slight power loss coincided with a rattle/knock noise from within the engine !!!
The operator deemed the session to be prematurely over.
So the next day it was transported back home, where it is currently back in my garage on the lift, waiting on me to finish my plumbing work in our cloakroom refurb, when I will investigate further.

At least it has had more than we are getting at the moment....... A night out smile
T.


magpies

5,129 posts

181 months

Sunday 31st January 2021
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Oh bugger

hope the repairs are not expensive.

Keep your chin(s) up

Hope to see you on one or more of the run outs

88S1

715 posts

60 months

Wednesday 3rd February 2021
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Oh no. Any idea what it is yet?

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Thursday 4th February 2021
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Yes, I have now removed the sump to inspect.
The first thing I must highlight is how good the Dyno guy (Jools) was at spotting the problem, and shutting the session down. It has kept the damage to a minimum....
In brief...
Sump oil has slight metallic paint look about it.
But not ferrous, as it's not attracted to my strong magnet.
Big end bearings have got hot, see photo.
No damage to big end crank journals... Phew.
Main bearings & crank journals, no damage. See photos.
So I'm replacing all bearings. Plus new big end stretch bolts.
Plus a thorough wash out, and several quick oil changes. Filter included of course.
Oh, cylinder compressions were all text book perfect.
So I'm going to say I was lucky.
And as to why it happened....
Well, t'wos me that caused it !!!
As, I clinically rechecked the oil pump pickup location in respect to the gap to the bottom of my modified sump..... Oops, 2-5mm at best, so it was struggling for oil flow at higher revs.
I shall be dealing with that too, of course.
A few points to note...
See the photo of the Crank, it's stamped Ford, confirming the Jag/Ford Duratec V6 engine connection.
Obtaining the big end Conrod stretch bolts was a nightmare. Now purchased and awaiting delivery from the USA (thanks to Mick M).
Apparently the Ford Duratec V6 was a Ford of USA design, not Ford of Europe. Hence why parts are scarce or expensive in the UK. In the USA, the Duratec Ford Vee engines are both V6 & V8, to over 5ltrs, and more widely used in Ford & Lincoln models.
T.


Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 4th February 10:27


Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 4th February 10:27

Blue 30

Original Poster:

519 posts

116 months

Thursday 4th February 2021
quotequote all

Big end, bad & good.

Mains, typical.

Crank main journal, typical.